Coloured filler???

[sihollies]

I was wondering if anyone could please share their wealth of knowledge and experience?
I am currently making a number of marquetry pictures using both natural and coloured veneers. (Red, blue, yellow, turquoise, purple and other)
I was wondering if there ia a neutral filler on the market that allows coloured pigments to me added so to match the veneers used?

Any advice or input would be greatly recieved

Simon

 

[Aquachiefofficer]

Try Rustins Grain Filler Natural mixed with the stain of your choice and a small amount of white spirit. It may require several coats to get to the shade you want.
Regards, Paul

 

[sihollies]

Thanks for the reply Aquachiefofficer,

The Rustins Grain Filler Natural is a good start, but what pigment/stain would you suggest I use for the Red,yellow, blue etc veneers?
If I am using natural veneers, it wouldnt be a problem, but unfortunately, generally i am not.
I do use aqua coat grain filler, but it is very expensive, so was wondering if there was an alternative solution?

Thanks again

Simon

 

[Aquachiefofficer]

I've never used these but there's a company called Baker Ross which sells a set of 6 x 20ml pots of Holzedsur stain in red, blue, green, yellow, white and brown for £7.99 .
Google coloured wood stains and they appear at the top of the list third one along in the sliding bar.
Paul

 

[Turnr77]

I use Ronseal high performance 2 part wood filler coloured with artist acrylic paints to match different timber colours. I usually use the natural colour ( sort of beige) as this is fine for timber but there is a white version (Toolstation stock it) which may be better for your use.
It is important to add the colour to the filler first and mix to obtain the correct colour before adding the hardener as it goes off very quickly. Add colour sparingly as it colours very easily.

Nick

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Styrene based two part fillers such as Everbuild will colour OK with pigments designed for use with polyester resins.

 

[sihollies]

Thanks Turnr77, that sound viable and promising.
Thanks also phil.p, but is there any chance you could suggest where to buy the 'pigments designed for use with polyester resins. '
many thanks in advance

Simon

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Firms like https://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/index.html (Just up the road from me ) and loads on line. Any supplier of glass fibreing materials or probably car body work stuff. Other pigments would probably work - a bit of trial and error is called for.
If this turns out to work OK, get a small bottle of styrene - it's not cheap but you can reconstitute (two part) filler that's started to stiffen in the tin and sometimes it's an advantage to be able to use it more liquid than it is supplied - it's easier to work into small gaps.
It will pay you to nearly finish the surrounding work before you fill, because otherwise you will fill every slight hollow around the bit you're filling with another colour which will be a sod to remove - if it's sealed first you're in with a chance.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I find isopon P38 and artist earth pigments work very well together. The artist supplier I have linked to below are about the most expensive place to buy earth pigments but they have a very good range. I often find the pigment I want on their website then do a search and get it a lot cheaper elsewhere.


https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paint ... bestseller

https://www.cornelissen.com/pigments-gu ... blues.html

 

[Droogs]

sihollies at what stage of the work are you intending to apply this filler? Are you using bought in dyed veneer or are you making your own? If using pre-dyed then you need to contact the manufacturer for the specs of the dyes used to ensure that the dye you use for the filler is compatible. If making your own dyed veneers then you have a lot more freedom as to the course you take. Whether you have used a veneer softener on the veneer already will also affect how well the dyed filler works with regard to preserving the colour's clarity.
I tend not to apply any softener to any veneers that I intend to dye, I just leave them as is until I need them and then flatten them using a very steamy iron and then press them using blank newsprint in a press. Once dry I then put the veneer through the process of dying (I'll list some dyes I've used successfully at the end). Once I put the dye on any left over is kept in an airtight container and then mixed with shellac and talc to form a thick creamy paste. This is then spread on and then rubbed in and once happy wiped off using a clean cloth. I then put the the veneer once again wrapped in newsprint in the press and leave to dry. Once dry you can if you want give a light sanding and then use for cutting out the pieces. I just tend to leave that until I give the entire showface a sanding or card scraper treatment.
AS well as commercial dyes I have had success with using food dye 9these give a subtle colouring shade, I have also used things like turmeric and paprika on occasion :lol: along with concentrated beetroot juice ( :idea: ).

Of the commercial stuff
metal complex dyes - a good source of info here: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/sto ... mplex_Dyes

aniline dyes - info source: https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials- ... iline-dyes

hth

 

[sihollies]

Thankyou all very much for the information.
I am using pre dyed veneers, but dont really think that the colour compatibility will be too much of a problem, as I will only be filling very minor imperfections by appying the filler to the rear of the picture prior to glueing, so it will barely show, and dont think it will be noticed.

Again, thanks and will look into all your suggestions
Simon