Cheapskate Marking Knife Idea(s) Wanted

[Benchwayze]

I suppose it's because they have to be softened to work, and then tempered to be of any use. A bit of trouble, for me as I don't do much metalwork. But yes, machine hacksaw blades are good for making knives.

John

 

[woodbloke]

Machine hacksaw blades do make decent knives but because the material is HSS it's difficult to touch them up on a stone...they seem to benefit better straight off a grinding wheel - Rob

 

[jhwbigley]

Machine hacksaw blades do make decent knives but because the material is HSS it's difficult to touch them up on a stone...they seem to benefit better straight off a grinding wheel - Rob

we have a machine hacksaw blade about 4" long with the end beveled both side, makes a great scraper for removing paint of metal. we use it straight of the red wheel on the grinder.

JHB

 

[Dave S]

Another vote for jigsaw blades - easy to regrind and they take and keep a good edge.

The knives linked to in earlier posts are very nice, but it is perfectly possible to knock something more basic up without a lathe. Take two pieces of yur chosen timber and plane a true face on each. Cut a shallow groove to take the blade and glue up with epoxy. Once dry, carve/sand the hande to shape.

I have made marking knives and carving knives this way, and whilst they are less refined than some of the others on display, they certainly do the job.

This kind of knife is described in some detail by the late James Krnov in one of his books.

cheers
Dave

 

[Benchwayze]

So what about the hoary old question of whether or not one side of the knife should be flat; meaning l/h or r/h knives are needed for those of us who are not ambidextrous?

If I am using a knife I like to know there is a flat side I can bear against the square. As a datum if you like.




John

 

[aesmith]

So what about the hoary old question of whether or not one side of the knife should be flat; meaning l/h or r/h knives are needed for those of us who are not ambidextrous?

If I am using a knife I like to know there is a flat side I can bear against the square. As a datum if you like.

John

That's the idea with the spear pointed knives. Well, my plan anyway. Right and left hand on the same blade with one face flat.

 

[woodbloke]

Another vote for jigsaw blades - easy to regrind and they take and keep a good edge.

The knives linked to in earlier posts are very nice, but it is perfectly possible to knock something more basic up without a lathe. Take two pieces of yur chosen timber and plane a true face on each. Cut a shallow groove to take the blade and glue up with epoxy. Once dry, carve/sand the hande to shape.

I have made marking knives and carving knives this way, and whilst they are less refined than some of the others on display, they certainly do the job.

This kind of knife is described in some detail by the late James Krnov in one of his books.

cheers
Dave

I've got two marking knives in my 'shop made in the same way, they work very well. I made my general purpose marking out knife from a bit of old planer blade - Rob

 

[wizer]

I use a Philips screwdriver to mark out dovetails

 

[dannykaye]

make one?

ferrule is a turned down brass gland, handle is an ash scrap blade is a bit of 0.1" thick 01 but an old file would do...

sorry it is a bit battered and the quick images are a bit scrappy
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[dannykaye]

oops sorry images too big, I'll do better next time

 

[Harbo]

Bugbear wrote

I know Harbo has made several, but no WIP shots.

Sorry for late entry but have been away (again).

Blades in preperation

Some early ones - Stanley blade on the ebony handled one

Hornbeam and two Blackwoods

I have used old Stanley knife blades but now prefer gauge plate.
Cut out roughly with a hacksaw then shaped on my grinding wheels and oscillating bobbin sander (for curves). Heat treated with a blowtorch and kitchen oven. The brass ferrules I buy from Ashley Iles generally at Yandles.
I shape the brass rod and cut the grove on my tiny Unimat lathe but in the past used my pillar drill and a hacksaw.
I use Araldite for the adhesive.

The handles are turned on my ML8 lathe - the "Vesper" flat types being the most "interesting" ones to make

Rod

 

[woodbloke]

Here's a few of mine, WIP shot on this one:

polishing the blades:

and the completed knives:

handles only here:

another one done:

with a better pic of the latest one in it's box:

and the knife itself, shot against a green baize backcloth:

Most handles in African Blackwood - Rob

 

[rileytoolworks]

Wow, the grain on that handle looks amazing!!!! Is that She-Oak?
Very nice craftsmanship....
Adam

 

[Oryxdesign]

Rob they look really beautiful but, don't you find they roll off the bench?

 

[aesmith]

What did you use to dye/stain the handles? It looks almost black. Something I'm working on just now I could do with getting the wood really dark.

 

[Aled Dafis]

Tony

Rob used African Blackwood for his dark knives, and as it's name suggests, it is actually black wood.

African blackwood is closely related to ebony and is a very dense hardwood (it sinks in water) and polishes up to a fantastic finish.

That Lace She Oak is beautifull stuff also, again very hard and dense. I believe that Mathew at Workshop heaven has some of this in his shop.

Cheers

Aled

 

[woodbloke]

Rob they look really beautiful but, don't you find they roll off the bench?

Dunno :duno: :lol: ...I can't afford one :-({|= :lol: - Rob

 

[DeepBlue]

I just wanted to say a big thank you to Aled. I got home tonight P***ed off from work to find an envelope with some ferrules and blades, which cheered me right up!

So thanks for putting a smile on a grumpy young git's face Lets hope I can make something half as good as the works of art that have just been posted.

 

[Harbo]

Oryxdesign asked

Rob they look really beautiful but, don't you find they roll off the bench?

A couple of my round ones have rolled off and damaged themselves on my concrete floor! That's why I have been going for the flat types - more difficult to make though?

Riley - the top one of mine is She-oak - rather dull and plainer grain than Robs.
The trouble with Ebony is that it can be very, very black and the grain does not always show. I prefer Blackwood as it has more "character".

Rod

 

[Aled Dafis]

I just wanted to say a big thank you to Aled. I got home tonight P***ed off from work to find an envelope with some ferrules and blades, which cheered me right up!

So thanks for putting a smile on a grumpy young git's face Lets hope I can make something half as good as the works of art that have just been posted.

No worries. I'm glad I could put a smile on your face. I've not had the best week either, been off work with a dodgy back. Feeling better tonight though, so it's back to see the little sods tomorrow.

Can't wait to see how you get on now. Remember pics are a must!!

If there's anybody else out there who'd like some blades and ferrules made up, just ask, I'll even harden them for you if you ask nicely. I have enugh material for about 4 more going spare.

Cheers

Aled