RogerS
Established Member
I'm in Northumberland. We don't 'do' Summer
Central heating pipes lagging
- Thread starter deema
- Start date
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John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Bet you have oil, though.
Don’t the joists need that ventilation?That's the underfloor heating in your landing sorted then. The dogs will love that just like the cats love sitting above the similarly placed pipes that form the 'spine' of our CH system.
Coincidentally, I have the upstairs floor of ours open at present changing some microbore drops to 15mm and I notice a modest draught into the floor space from where the ends of the joists go into the end wall of the house.
Draught proofing may be more important in practice than pipe lagging.
I never thought about it.
It's a late 70's build. Block inner, brick outer. This is between the ground floor ceiling and upstairs floorboards. Unsealed unfilled cavities at present and the wind whips through them.
There's nothing deliberate, just small gaps as timber has shrunk and the building bedded down. Not like airbricks to ventilate under a suspended timber floor at ground level. It's just what they'd probably call "poorly sealed". I'll be looking to see how much effect it has come winter.
Current Building regs definitely don't allow that construction. There can't be any air movement from cavity to floor voids. The normal is that the joists are suspended on joist hangers, which are built into the wall. Not only that, the floor will requre insulation (rockwall). to prevent (reduce) noise transmission.
RogerS
Established Member
Oh FFS...stop being so childish
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Well ok.
I'm merely pointing out the obvious flaw in your argument in favour of incandescent lights. Namely, that heating using electricity is more expensive than gas or oil, and the lights heat your house regardless of the seasons.
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
If that's a comment on my post, Deema, then what I've read agrees with that. Incandescent light bulbs, however, generally have efficiency of around 1, whereas heat pumps claim anything up to about 4.
Agent_zed
Established Member
Whilst you will get a bit of heat 'loss' (into another part of the house) from those pipes, without spreader plates it's not going to be huge. You also have to factor in that once the floor boards are down it will act as insulation and slow the heat loss once the floor cavity has heated up. As it will only be at ~40c the heatloss is going to be slower than at 60c.
I'm surprised at how many joints have been put into that system but tbh I've only seen what I've done. When I did mine it was quite struggle to do complete runs but I did manage it, although i had all my ceilings down at the time. I did however, stupidly, run the upstairs at 65 from the boiler (boiler is 6 meters aways and is copper piped to the manifold) and it damaged the pipes and I had to replace the first meter of each of the outgoing so have 5 joints now
I have ensured the joints are in places i can access them in case they leak in future though.
I don't understand why the pipes failed though as they were rated to 90c at 10bar and I was nowhere near that.
I'm surprised at how many joints have been put into that system but tbh I've only seen what I've done. When I did mine it was quite struggle to do complete runs but I did manage it, although i had all my ceilings down at the time. I did however, stupidly, run the upstairs at 65 from the boiler (boiler is 6 meters aways and is copper piped to the manifold) and it damaged the pipes and I had to replace the first meter of each of the outgoing so have 5 joints now
I have ensured the joints are in places i can access them in case they leak in future though.
I don't understand why the pipes failed though as they were rated to 90c at 10bar and I was nowhere near that.
Yep, 15mm does come in coils of very long lengths. Haven’t seen 22 or 28 in coils though.
Agent_zed
Established Member
You can get 25m coils of 22mm from screwfix etc I ran 22mm feed and return to my manifold downstairs 8-9meters as i couldn't get a run of copper pipe under the exisiting floor joists. With the plastic I could just feed it under from the one end. But that was a suspended floor so it didn't have to go through anything. rightly or wrongly I prefered to use copper pipe to my manifold as it is carrying hotter water and then the mixer in the manifold takes it down for the plastic runs.
It can of course be impossible in retro fits to use one run and I've no idea of your setup/layout, as well as certainly not being an expert having only fitted my own.
On the brightside come winter you'll enjoy warm feet. You don't have to heat the room quite as much as with radiators as the heat is at the bottom of the room not shoulder height. We tend to keep our rooms at 18c through the winter. Only problem is having areas of the floor that aren't heated so i have someone to put my guitars!
Does anyone use incandescent lights now days? Blowing their elements and tripping the electrics should be a thing of the past, let alone the inefficiency.
We’ve still got a few hanging on and still some spares left in the bulb box.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Why?
LED bulbs can trip a breaker, even an RCD/GFI, when the bulb fails; usually when the bulb dies ‘cos internals go short circuit for whatever reason. I’ve known good quality bulbs trip after very long life usage; nothing apparently the cause other than old age. Usually I spot a bulb has started to flicker and that can trip the breaker if not replaced as the bulb internals will break down etc.. Others I notice just go a little dim, may struggle to light up even, and know it’s time to replace.
As regards incandescent… I’ve quite a stock, bought when the dread folded fluorescent bulbs were all the range as an energy saving option. They were so generally awful that I preferred to stay with the incandescents. When LED arrived and gradually improved colour temp etc. I moved over to them slowly, but still keep the incandescents for occasional use in say a bedside light; as when they dim they go to a warmer setting, whereas LED just go seemingly darker with a colder effect, which is not as nice. Which having said my current bedside lamps are LED as I don’t have them on dimmers.
By pure chance an LED 60watt equivalent died in my garage/shed recently, started to flicker and merely managed to come on as dim. Not having a spare LED to hand I popped in a 100watt incandescent for now, the rest of bulbs still being LED 60watt equivalents. The lights in the garage/shed are seldom on for more than a few minutes so one 100watt isn’t going to break the bank. LEDs are allegedly designed to be on for a few minutes rather than a kwik on/off, and that helps preserve their useful life; much as with incandescents. Cheap versions of either will usually fail sooner if on/off short cycled too often.
As regards incandescent… I’ve quite a stock, bought when the dread folded fluorescent bulbs were all the range as an energy saving option. They were so generally awful that I preferred to stay with the incandescents. When LED arrived and gradually improved colour temp etc. I moved over to them slowly, but still keep the incandescents for occasional use in say a bedside light; as when they dim they go to a warmer setting, whereas LED just go seemingly darker with a colder effect, which is not as nice. Which having said my current bedside lamps are LED as I don’t have them on dimmers.
By pure chance an LED 60watt equivalent died in my garage/shed recently, started to flicker and merely managed to come on as dim. Not having a spare LED to hand I popped in a 100watt incandescent for now, the rest of bulbs still being LED 60watt equivalents. The lights in the garage/shed are seldom on for more than a few minutes so one 100watt isn’t going to break the bank. LEDs are allegedly designed to be on for a few minutes rather than a kwik on/off, and that helps preserve their useful life; much as with incandescents. Cheap versions of either will usually fail sooner if on/off short cycled too often.
