Carving practice in MDF?

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Eshmeil

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I suggest you pick up your tools and a bit of wood rather than MDF and give it a go rather than asking again as it's all been said.
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I'm not suggesting a preference for MDF, unless it's all you have available. Might be a good idea to get your hand in rather than spoiling an expensive piece of the "correct" material?
Good for sharpening practice too - "a little and often" is essential for carving where you may be working with the same tool for some time. A bit like chopping a mortice where you do a lot of chisel work and have to have your oil stone close to hand all the time.
 
Eshmeil

You asked the question and you've had a range of answers from those who carve and those who don't but think they know. It's been done to death and the decision is down to you so you practice on whatever you want that makes it enjoyable and you feel enhances your skills.
You had an offer of suitable wood from another member and didn't take him up on it, in fact you didn't even like or respond to his post. I have a lot of very suitable wood and would have made a similar offer had you responded to him.

I suggest you pick up your tools and a bit of wood rather than MDF and give it a go rather than asking again as it's all been said.
Whatever you do, good luck with it, anyone can carve, the only difference is the level of skill and ability much of which comes from practice - ON SUITABLE MATERIAL
ATB
Oooh - I feel shame now that I didn't notice the post from the chap who offered me wood. I'll PM and apologise to him.

Yes, I'll carve on what I have, for practice as well as (eventually) to make something worth making and keeping.
 
Going back to sources of materials (for the financially disadvantaged) - if you are willing to deal with a LOT of waste and have time to spare for dismantling, the frames from old sofas and armchairs tend to be made of hardwoods like ash and sycamore, which I would have thought to be good practice woods. I made my mallet from a bit of sofa - carved my name in it!
 
Even pine is difficult to obtain at reasonable prices, these days. But there's plenty of fir and spruce. Also plenty of knots in it. But I may go to the local wood merchant and insist on examining all of their wider whitewood planks for one that at least has substantial areas in it clear of knots.

As you say, if my edges will cut pine/spruce/fir cleanly I must have me sharpening right.

My intention is to try to carve a first "good" relief carving, after all the practice, in cherry. I have a fair amount of that in wide-ish planks and it does have a fine grain for carving even if it is rather tougher than lime and similar. Black walnut is another possibility as I have some wide-ish planks of that too but I imagine it would need the right subject, because its so dark.
Spruce is a nice wood to carve, but you need to get your tools very sharp to make it work well.

C24 carves well and it's cheap. It can be sourced in 2"x 9" sections and if you look carefully, some of it has very tight grain.
 
Going back to sources of materials (for the financially disadvantaged) - if you are willing to deal with a LOT of waste and have time to spare for dismantling, the frames from old sofas and armchairs tend to be made of hardwoods like ash and sycamore, which I would have thought to be good practice woods. I made my mallet from a bit of sofa - carved my name in it!
Makes it even better if you have a wood-stove for the left overs.
 
look out for old doors, I found an amazing one that was quartersawn douglas fir, if you can find one cheap it's better quality wood than anything you can buy today.
 
Carving is "subtractive sculpture"..forming with plasticene is "additive sculpture".

You can sculpt plasticene with your fingers, you'll not get far trying that on wood .
Jacob, you are out of your depth on something which is not your subject, resulting in you talking spherical objects.
Put down the spade and quit digging..you are making yourself look silly, and potentially misleading any readers.

Make a sash window or something, some of us do this sculpture thing for a living, longer than you've been working with wood.

Just "going for it", when you don't know what you are doing, or talking about, results in this kind of thing.
https://allthatsinteresting.com/immaculate-conception-restoration
That link is a rabbit hole, terrible and funny in equal measure 😂
 
This thread is quite aggressive considering the subject matter.

As to the mdf, my Dad did an amazing kestrel relief carving for my scout patrol some 30 years ago in mdf. Sadly it is ashes now as the hut burned down. I know it adds no real value to the thread but I was just reminded of it and can picture it clearly.
 
look out for old doors, I found an amazing one that was quartersawn douglas fir, if you can find one cheap it's better quality wood than anything you can buy today.
Apart from the first two or three first years cabinet-making, I scavenged all my timber, from many sources where it would otherwise have ended up landfilled, burnt or just abandoned. I still have a goodly amount down in the store ..... but found myself bereft of lime and other timbers generally recommended as easier to carve. Hence my question about MDF. But this thread has persuaded me that I'm much better off using possibilities from my hardwood stores, even if they isn't as forgiving (to me or the tools) as lime, jelutong and so forth.

Since I moved house and to a very different sort of area, I now find that scrap wood is not so common (the population density is very low) but there's a lot of green timber available (many more trees in this sparsely populated area too). That was one of several reasons why I began at the greenwood spoons, bowls, shrink pots and other treen - which in turn has stimulated a yen to be brave and try carving-proper.

So, perhaps I'll make more effort to scavenge carving wood that's dried, suitable etcetera. If I still had the big bandsaw I had to give up when moving to a smaller workshop, I'd likely try sawing up large green logs. Perhaps I need to find a bandsaw-owning friend. :)
 
Carving is "subtractive sculpture"..forming with plasticene is "additive sculpture".
But they both entail having an "eye" for "form" , which is the critical thing. It's like design - it's the key thing with many products and the craft work of actually making it, quite secondary
You can sculpt plasticene with your fingers, you'll not get far trying that on wood .
Jacob, you are out of your depth on something which is not your subject, resulting in you talking spherical objects.
Put down the spade and quit digging..you are making yourself look silly, and potentially misleading any readers.
Do you have any photos of your own carvings?
....

Just "going for it", when you don't know what you are doing, or talking about, results in this kind of thing.
https://allthatsinteresting.com/immaculate-conception-restoration
er, stretching it a bit! Mind you there are some hideous examples of "restoration" in other craft trades. e.g. old buildings often get kicked to death and end up scrubbed clean of character.
 
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...... several reasons why I began at the greenwood spoons, bowls, shrink pots and other treen - which in turn has stimulated a yen to be brave and try carving-proper.
What is "carving proper". Aren't you already doing it?
 
Apart from the first two or three first years cabinet-making, I scavenged all my timber, from many sources where it would otherwise have ended up landfilled, burnt or just abandoned. I still have a goodly amount down in the store ..... but found myself bereft of lime and other timbers generally recommended as easier to carve. Hence my question about MDF. But this thread has persuaded me that I'm much better off using possibilities from my hardwood stores, even if they isn't as forgiving (to me or the tools) as lime, jelutong and so forth.

Since I moved house and to a very different sort of area, I now find that scrap wood is not so common (the population density is very low) but there's a lot of green timber available (many more trees in this sparsely populated area too). That was one of several reasons why I began at the greenwood spoons, bowls, shrink pots and other treen - which in turn has stimulated a yen to be brave and try carving-proper.

So, perhaps I'll make more effort to scavenge carving wood that's dried, suitable etcetera. If I still had the big bandsaw I had to give up when moving to a smaller workshop, I'd likely try sawing up large green logs. Perhaps I need to find a bandsaw-owning friend. :)
have you looked at buying some lime wood bowl blanks? that might be a good starting point, yandles sell them for good prices.
 
...... there are some hideous examples of "restoration" in other craft trades. e.g. old buildings often get kicked to death and end up scrubbed clean of character.
Ah yes ..... but this is good for the likes o' me, who will sidle up to the "restorers" and filch the stuff they're ripping out and tossing at a large bonfire 'round the back. The place I moved from had a large number of Georgian and Victorian buildings, from huge mills to posh wee town houses. It was always a mix of horror and a pleasurable anticipation to see one being "remodelled". Sidle-sidle, I would go, up to them with a winning smile.
 
What is "carving proper". Aren't you already doing it?
Well, there are many carving traditions. But those that are dominant in the public eye-mind tend to be relief and in-the-round carvings in which the carving itself is regarded as the essence. In carving repeating motives along the corners and edges of furniture, or shaping spoons and bowls, something else is regarded as the essence - their utility, with any decorative effects regarded as secondary.

So ... "carving-proper" - those traditions that produce what tend to be as much works of art as works of (the necessary underpinning) craft.

I know that some self-styled "designer-makers" like to claim that their furniture or even their spoon is a work of art. This claim often seems to me to be more a pose than a reality.

On the other hand, some furniture, and many love-spoons - are in fact wooden sculptures rather than things of utility - made for looking at rather than using to sit on or keep the knives & forks in. Some "designer-makers" cross the line so that their furniture is not at all comfortable or otherwise easy to use as such. Charles Rennie Mackintosh chairs, for example, are said to be very uncomfortable to sit in for more than a minute or five but are quite elegant sculptures to observe.
 
have you looked at buying some lime wood bowl blanks? that might be a good starting point, yandles sell them for good prices.
I'll look there - and at another place mentioned up-thread - although my assumption that lime or similar would be necessary to the learning of formal carving techniques has faded a bit after this thread.
 

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