Can you help with heat damage on veneered surface

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Otto

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Hi,

I have a piece I made over 10 years ago that has a lot of sentimental value for me, both in terms of who I got the timber from and who I made it for. It stood the test of time real well but has had hair straighteners left on all day which has caused a small area of damage. The veneers have shrunk away and there's a couple of small areas that have taken on a bloom from the heat. Realistically I know I'm going to have to strip the whole thing and refinish, but any ideas on how to get the glue into the crack and fill it.
The veneers are about 1.5mm but I don't have any more of the same olive ash, so I can't splice a piece in. I don't want to use pva and sawdust as that will go black. What would you do? Thanks
 

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I'd try what I did recently on my double bass - splice a strip of maple in, buy some water colour paints, make the best match I could and then finish over the top. Strip first of course.

I wasn't too fussy, as the bass has had a hard life and I plan to redo the repair in a year or so. You need to practice a lot on separate scraps of maple first, I didn't get the colour close until my third or fourth try. You can paint on grain lines too.

I chose maple as I had some, but any wood lighter and without pronounced grain would do.
 
With hard wax it would be possible to fill that then lose it by painting the grain in. All before refinishing of course.
 
No I wouldn’t use sawdust and PVA either but I’m curious why you say it will go black?
Not sure what to suggest, sorry.
Ian
 
Cabinetman, it has been my experience that pva and sawdust always dries dark, maybe not black, but definitely dark, hence my reluctance to smoosh that in the crack. I'm wondering if Superglue and sawdust might be a better ?
 
Interesting, never been big on filler of any sort but looking darker isn’t something I’ve noticed.
I have used Evostick almost exclusively for ever, I wonder if it gives different results?
 
You can mix hard wax to get the colour you want, you can even run one colour through another to get a grain effect, although that takes some practice. If you just want to mix for colour then I use a cheese grater to shave off bits from different sticks, then melt and adjust until you have the colour you want. As for painting very important to use a UV resistant lacquer locally over the paint. Otherwise your exact colour match will change over time. Do this all the time with clock cases. Personally I favour Humbrol enamels, massive choice of colours and resists fading etc very well. It also readily takes finishes like shellac.
 
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