Cambered Plane Blade w/ Veritas Guide

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El Barto

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When putting a camber on a plane iron using a Veritas honing guide, would it be beneficial to place a length of tape along the middle of the roller to create a similar shape to the cambered roller? Or would the slight "bump" from the two ends of the tape cause a problem or some weird unevenness?

I know you can create a camber by exerting pressure on each side of the iron but thought this way might speed things up a bit and create more consistency (I'd likely centre the tape more than in the photo before using it).

Ue5ohsx.jpg
 
Hello,

That should be OK, you have in effect made a narrow wheeled jig, like the Eclipse, which is often used to put a camber on a plane iron. You can get a cambered roller for the Veritas, though, it takes a few seconds to swap back and forth.

I just camber my iron with the standard roller, though. More pressure at the extreme edges gives the very slight camber needed. Most people put far too much camber on their irons.

Mike.
 
woodbrains":3csejmey said:
Hello,

That should be OK, you have in effect made a narrow wheeled jig, like the Eclipse, which is often used to put a camber on a plane iron. You can get a cambered roller for the Veritas, though, it takes a few seconds to swap back and forth.

I just camber my iron with the standard roller on the Veritas, though. More pressure at the extreme edges gives the very slight camber needed. Most people put far too much camber on their irons.

I hope you are ready for the backlash! (hammer)

Mike.
 
Thanks Mike. I saw their cambered roller but then I figured I could cheat it with tape rather than spend the money. No harm in trying it out I 'spose.
 
Hello,

Actually I just had a thought, the cambered roller Veritas supply has a shorter adjuster knob, so it doesn't contact the stone when you rock it over on that side. Watch out for that on your tape setup.

Mike.
 
Cambering a blade is much easier without a jig.
Ideally, after a lot of use, you have a hollowish stone so it cambers automatically every time you use it.
 
^But that won't work with diamond plates... which are obviously far superior to any stones. RUN FOR COVER! :p
 
Nelsun":1tvf465h said:
^But that won't work with diamond plates... ..
Yes it will. You do a slightly sideways swipe/scoop as you go forwards. Imagine grinding a bevel on part of the edge of a disc.
The odd thing about recommending trad sharpening is that you end up having to describe these extremely simple things, which people used to be able to without giving it a thought, as though they've somehow forgotten how to walk, for no apparent reason.
 
Apologies. The little devil comes out in me in the hours of darkness... of which there are many up in Shetland at the moment. Or perhaps it's deficient caffeine levels at the start and end of the day. Or both. I'll shut up now :oops:
 
Following the last sharpening war, I had a serious go at hand sharpening in the Paul Sellers method, and I have achieved brilliant results. I was shamed into having a more serious go after Jacobs comments in the last war. I'm not going to sell or otherwise dispose of my beautifully made Veritas mk2 hone as it may at some time be useful, but in the meantime my plane irons chisels etc have a single convex bevel and are razor sharp, and very quick to resharpen.
 
Honest John":1h0o9i21 said:
.....I was shamed into having a more serious go after Jacobs comments in the last war. I'm not going to sell or otherwise dispose of my beautifully made Veritas mk2 hone as it may at some time be useful, ...
:lol:
I've still got a Stanley and an Eclipse jig in a drawer. I haven't felt the slightest inclination to use them since I reverted to the old ways :shock: .
They don't take up much space - they are souvenirs.
 
No you won't catch me knapping.
If only they had had jigs - could have cut short all that time spent fiddling about in the paleolithic!
 

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