Jacob doesn't really have any information for you unless you're looking for a guy who worked back and forth from a shop where most of the stuff was cut with a slider and shaper. I had to go back pretty far to find him demonstrating something, and it was cutting half blinds. It didn't look like he'd done it before.
But the answer with a jack is simple - grind the jack with curvature and then draw and push the whole iron with rotation. while you're doing it and then work the tip of the tool with a finer stone to remove the burr (there's no good reason, even on a jack, to tear off a large burr - actually there's never any good reason to remove a burr with anything other than a fine stone or a strop that will hone most of it off and not tear it off).
Once you get a jack set up, it's good for a solid half hour of planing or so in hardwoods (and if working by hand, you absolutely do as much with it as you can to get close to a mark). If grinding is needed to push back the bevel more than once per very large furniture project, it would be unusual.
Generally want an iron that's on the moderate hardness side and not super hard, either - sharpening takes about a minute.
I used 1200 diamond stone to remove the burr, if working on a lower grit or equal stone, then I removed the burr on Agate stone or strop when using them for the bevel part as well. I may try to use Agate or Strop only and not use 1200 stone for removing burr when working the bevel on the lower grit stones.
If I understand it correctly, shall I pull and rotate the iron sideways as Jacob suggested or you describe a different technique? Sometimes when I sharpen I get burr on the sides but no burr in the middle, when sharpening in front to back and back to front motion. Then I apply more pressure in the middle to get a burr there (and that is maybe why I am loosing camber).
I can almost get finished surface with the jack. I use a srub plane only to remove some debris from the wood, if there is any and then I switch to jack. I work in sections, front to back, if I work a long board without cross grain planing. It is maybe more work, but I do not have to deal with deep tearout that I would get from scrub plane or cross grain planing. I try to remove as little material as possible to get the face flat.