Byrons Official Workshop Build Thread

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Nice playhouse! Do you have a miniature workbench and table-saw in there as well?

The roofing tiles do look nice, i'll have to cost it up How is it fixed? Adhesive or clout nails?
 
The last time I priced up shingles compared to heavy duty mineral felt, the shingles came out at about 4 times the cost. :roll: :roll:

If I remember correctly from the blurb you need a minimum pitch of 22deg.

Les
 
ouch! thats very expensive! I just costed up corrugated bitumen panels from wickes, and they come to just £100 - so I think I know which method to go for.
 
hi byron
just noticed that you ask how to fix shingles
what you do is start at the bottom , fix the first row , nailing them direct to your substrate , in your case osb and one layer of felt
the second row goes on over lapping the first and covering the nails at the same time
{IIRC} these shingles are not really suited to roofs below a certain pitch
this puts you out of it as far as shingles are concerned

im no expert roofer . but have had some dealings with this kind of roof
in the past . so feel free to critisise and correct any points that i may have missed . :roll:

a "built up felt roof" done properly will cost a small fortune
you will need to hire a bitumen boiler and buy the cakes of bitumen
the woodwork has to be at least 3/4" thick and tight jointed
on the front , back , and highest edge a strip of wood , say 2x2 cut diagonally has to form a perimeter around the three edges .

with me so far . good then ill continue

cut your strips of felt to go on so that the roof is covered high point to low point
cut another lot or felt so that it it is covered front to back
both these layers are now ready to be bitumened into place

note : dont go any further than the perimeter fillet youve installed on the three edges

now you are ready to start sticking down
when the first two layers of felt are stuck down
you are ready for the capsheet . or "traditional felt"
stick the capsheet to the first two layers of felt in the same manner with the bitumen,

at this point the roof is pretty watertight , but you will need to finish off all
around the edges .
this is difficult to explain ,
long pause


right . here we go .

the underside {what you see from the ground} has to be folded under . nail the face of the capsheet direct to the barge board
so , lets say your barge board and perimeter fillet are 8" deep
mark a line 4" up . nail all your felt to the barge board making sure the falt is dangling earthwards . then fold the felt back up onto the roof
from the top now, stick it to the barge board , fillet strip and a generous overlap onto the capsheet .
do that all the way round folding the felt up and sticking it to itself
you will then have a roof that should last in excess of twenty years
ohh, you can then add a thin layer of stone to help absorb the heat from the sun .
like i said , im no expert , but im blessed with a wealth of first hand experience knowledge . { at work we use subbies, cos they have all the gear} :x :x

alternativley you could use roofing sheets :lol: :lol:
here ends the tutorial on "built up felt roofing"
hope ive not done your head in #-o
mel
 
ByronBlack":33vn3u4i said:
Nice playhouse! Do you have a miniature workbench and table-saw in there as well?

The roofing tiles do look nice, i'll have to cost it up How is it fixed? Adhesive or clout nails?

The kids are loving the table saw but there were tears when I said no to the stacked dado set :D :D , they are after a mortiser now - or is that me!!!

Try this link for fitting shingles:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof ... halt_1.htm
 
To be honest i never looked into what the right pitch should be, all I know is that the roof pitch runs from seven foot six to six foot six. Also the tiles were self adhesive but I still put clout nails in underneath the tile.

Phil
 
bB,
I am in favour of the corrugated bitumen panels and have used them on a shed roof refurb a few years back. One advantage ( a bit late for you perhaps, sorry) is that they do not need to be laid on a boarded roof just attached to purlins which are a lot cheaper and easier on the back to install.
If you go for the Onduline range you can also get roof lights (windows) that fit the profile - lots of info here:- http://home.btconnect.com/slecladding/ondul.htm

Andy
 
I think i'm definitly going to go for the bitumen sheeting root. I went out to the workshop today and found a fair bit of water - not sure how it got in as I have a waterpoof membrane over the OSB, and then a layer of felt over that, a bit annoying really.

Andy, ive worked out how many sheets I need = 14. Do you know how much they are for each sheet?

The bitumen ones at wickes works out at about £100 all in.
 
Update:

No more work done to the workshop as of yet due to my crappy job insisting I need to work both saturday and sunday - the scumbags!

Anyway. I've placed an order with Wickes for 14 Bitumen Roofing Sheets (Green) and 200 fixings. They should be here tuesday which is lucky as I have the tuesday and wednesday off.

When I get back from work today, i'll get the final side of cladding done. And then work on getting the facia/barge boards and trim pieces cut to length and planned - I can test out my lovely old/new stanley 4 1/2.

I also might put in some cross-noggings between the roof joists to give the roof some extra rigidity in high winds, and also provide more places to fix the sheeting.

Thats it so far, summary and photo's added when I finally get some spare time.
 
Sorry, BB just picked up your question. I can no longer find the receipt for the panels that I bought but I do recall it was cheaper than replacing the boarded roof (it was made from chipboard) and re-felting.

Andy
 
Andy, thanks for coming back to me - i've since ordered the sheets from wickes, which i'm hoping will turn up on tuesday. So in the next coming days, I should get the roof and the trim done - just the doors to do and the beast will be sealed!
 
Day 16

Wickes arrived first thing this morning, grumpy driver in tow. The bitumen roofing sheets are quite nice and relatively light. I'll mostly be fitting them today and if I get time, get my new smoother sharpened and my rough-sawn 6x1 and 3x1 timber smooth and cut for the trim and facia boards - although this will probably be tomorrows job - along with finishing the last few boards of cladding.

1.03pm

Just finished putting on the last roof sheet. I just need to go back up on the roof and put a few more fixings in as a couple didn't grip properly. I also need to superglue down some of the plastic caps as there are some which aren't staying closed.

The roofing sheet is in fact Onduline! They are £8.49 a sheet, and I needed 14 , so it worked out a little more expensive than I realised. And to top it off, the fixings which cost me £26 are too short! They go through the ridge of the sheet, but bearly have enough meat on them to drive into the OSB - so i've had to use some of my 60mm wood-screws. So i've paid £26 for 200 plastic caps - bah! And I've not even opened one of hte other packs yet.

Roof cost so far (proper figures will be given at the end of the project)

Felt = £40
Clout Nails = £5
Black Roofing Membrane = £67 (also used for walls) and some left over.
Onduline Roofing Sheets = £118
Fixings (screws and plastic caps) = £23
Delivery for sheets = £16
OSB sheeting = £88

Total for roof = £357

With a little more fore thought, I could have done this so much cheaper! However, with 4 layers (OSB, Membrane, Felt & Sheeting) there ain't nottin' getting in this bad boy!

Summary and pictures to follow
 
Hi Byron -I've just registered with this site as I only found it out on Sunday as I was looking for reviews on universal machines. I retired in March as an IT Network Technical Advisor, and as I've been designing my workshop over the last 6 months your thread was the first to catch my eye. I spent all day Sunday reading with great interest the 14 (now 15) pages on your workshop build. I have loads of questions but I'm going to leave them till you have finished the construction as you could be spending more time on the forum than on building the shed. With nearly 15,000 hits, this thread has proved very popular and it just shows how much interest there is in building a humble shed. I'm a little bogged down with my build as I have to take out a 40ft Sycamore tree before I can lay the foundations, and those roots are a bit deep.


Glad to know that when you have finished you will provide the numbers for this build as these are useful to know as.

one question I will ask is: which size nails did you used for the cladding. Most I've seen seem a bit thin compared to traditional nails. How many did you use to nail to each stud, 2 or 3.
 
HI Schultzy - welcome to the forum!! And thanks for reading the thread, I hope it provides you with some useful information and inspiration - that was my aim by doing the thread.

To answer your first couple of questions. For the cladding, i've been using 18gauage 32mm brads, putting 3 in each stud, I have quite a lot of studding, so the cladding is very solid. However, I know that most on here would recommened using a heavier guage nail/brad, but from my experience so far is once the cladding board is on, it's very very difficult for me to get off.

I had to remove 2 claddding boards yesterday as I had gone a bit off-level, It took about 10 mins with the claw hammer, so I would say it's strong enough for me!

Hope that helps, and feel free to go ahead and ask questions. I'm more than happy to answer them as best I can - and i'm sure the other contributers to this thread will do so alike.
 
hi Bb
didnt realize that you were "fixing" the cladding with 18g brads
these seem a bit thin to me to fix
thought that you were lineing up with brads . and then using a heavier fixing to complete and secure the cladding to the studs
with the nylon vapour barrier between the studs and cladding , i would imagine that the whole structure would rack very easily
however when you get your interior walls lined with 8x4 sheets this wont be a problem
brads are generally used for interior second fix, but ive used them myself outside with resin based wood glue " moisture cured" foaming sort .
sorry to unload this on you at this stage of the game :oops:
mel
 
Hi Mel and John - I was thinking that 15g brads would be ok, but the nailer for firing these nails are expensive (£200+). If I have to hire a nailer it might be better to find one that puts in "real" flat top nails.
 
Hi Byron - My shed will be 16ft x 8ft based on 8x8 frames. I wondered why so many noggins in the base? I was only going to put one in between each joist along the centreline, surely once the floor is down the joists are going nowhere.
I was surprised you screwed the noggings, nails would have been quicker and cheaper. I'm also surprised you used nails in the wall frames. Most bought sheds are nailed, and with the cladding on and the inside covering nothing will move.
I was going to use 3x2 @ 2ft centres in the walls. How did you arrive at using 4x2 .

Electrics - Make sure you lay a supply that can take 16amps, as if you ever want to put in a universal machine it will need this much current, the difference in cost of cable is minimal.

Security - I'm going to make cladded frames hinged under the windows, when folded up put a couple of coach bolts through to the inside with wing nuts on. Its resonably cheap and you can leave the plastic windows in.
Wireless Alarms systems are pretty cheap now which you could extend to the house at a later date.
 
Schultzy

Screws were used because thats what I felt was right, didn't want to use nails, also screws allow for parts to be removed, nails don't.

I used that amount of noggins on the floor, because if you have heavy machinery, you don't want the weight all on just the ply floor!

4x2 is the standard for stud walls and gives the proper recess for a lot of the off the shelf insulation. With 3x2 your losing more room for the insulation.
 
Day 16 Summary and Photos

Roof is finally complete! I thought that after putting on the felt, but after noticing some ingress of water, I decided the bitumen panels would be better than a built-up felt roof - and I really couldn't be arsed with the felt anymore!

Today then was quite productive, the roof is complete, the cladding is complete. Tomorrow should see all the facia and soffit boards going up, aswell as the rest of the trim. The cladding on the right hand side will also be painted.

The last job of this stage of the build will be to fit the doors. Luckily, Wickes have a new stock of doors, and they have the ones that I designed the frame for. So as soon as I get paid, i'll be ordering the doors and fitting them. Then it's just onto the interior.

Photos:

Finished Roof:
266217326_9cda33eab6.jpg



Finished Cladding:
266217533_f2e4ac0296.jpg


Had a small problem with the last cladding board, so had to dig out my new dinky kirschen butt chisels - worked nicely out of the box (review will be coming soon):

266217792_55c439f309.jpg



Summary

Just need to fill some holes where a few knots have fallen out and get the rest of the cladding done.

Overall, i'm well chuffed so far!
 

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