Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
I've never seen that type of corrugated panel on this side of the world, (plastic, fiberglass, and metal we have). Can you walk on it without damaging it?
Byrons Official Workshop Build Thread
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ByronBlack
Established Member
Inspector - yes, surprisingly despite it being quite rubbery and light its extremely strong. I'm quite heavy, and could walk over it without it flattening out. It really is great stuff.
I believe its made in Belgium, and called Onduline. The only thing about it though as it that it stinks!
I believe its made in Belgium, and called Onduline. The only thing about it though as it that it stinks!
ByronBlack
Established Member
Day 17
Not sure I could call this a proper day really as i've been rained out of action almost from the time I crawled out of bed.
We've had downpours, thunder and lightning and heavy winds, all on a day I expected to be mostly dry - damn met office!
Anyways, it was a bit of a milestone today though. It was the first day I actually got to work IN the workshop rather than ON it. Not that I did much though. Just sorted all my offcuts and left over timbers. Tidied the place up, removed the polysheet and tarps from the floor as I don't need them now that the roof is complete.
I wasn't sure what to do with all the smaller offcuts (less than 2 ft). I had a large box left over from the trend extractor, so I thought it would make sense to start chopping it all up into smaller blocks for fire wood ready for when I get my woodstove! I now have loads of the stuff, easily for a good couple of weeks I would imagine, and I still have 20m + of timber left.
I have loads of 6x2 left over, so I think i'm going to use these along with the bit of OSB and Ply I have to make a solid assembly/festool table.
I have quite a lot of building material left over if anyone is interested:
- Half roll of roofing membrane (can be used on walls too)
- 22 Threaded Rods and corresponding nuts (100 or so)
- 100 Plastic caped screws for corrugated roofing
- Full roll of DPC
- 4 Tarpaulins (with a few staple holes, but otherwise good)
- 1 Large Hippo Bag
- 2 Bags of 13mm Clout Nails
£30 quid the lot if you collect, I might even through in some timber.
Not sure I could call this a proper day really as i've been rained out of action almost from the time I crawled out of bed.
We've had downpours, thunder and lightning and heavy winds, all on a day I expected to be mostly dry - damn met office!
Anyways, it was a bit of a milestone today though. It was the first day I actually got to work IN the workshop rather than ON it. Not that I did much though. Just sorted all my offcuts and left over timbers. Tidied the place up, removed the polysheet and tarps from the floor as I don't need them now that the roof is complete.
I wasn't sure what to do with all the smaller offcuts (less than 2 ft). I had a large box left over from the trend extractor, so I thought it would make sense to start chopping it all up into smaller blocks for fire wood ready for when I get my woodstove! I now have loads of the stuff, easily for a good couple of weeks I would imagine, and I still have 20m + of timber left.
I have loads of 6x2 left over, so I think i'm going to use these along with the bit of OSB and Ply I have to make a solid assembly/festool table.
I have quite a lot of building material left over if anyone is interested:
- Half roll of roofing membrane (can be used on walls too)
- 22 Threaded Rods and corresponding nuts (100 or so)
- 100 Plastic caped screws for corrugated roofing
- Full roll of DPC
- 4 Tarpaulins (with a few staple holes, but otherwise good)
- 1 Large Hippo Bag
- 2 Bags of 13mm Clout Nails
£30 quid the lot if you collect, I might even through in some timber.
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
If it's not too late, don't cut up the longer short pieces of timber yet. You might find them handy for your benches.
A few years ago, after building my shed, I had a lot of leftover 2x lumber. I jointed and planed the stuff down to consistent sizes and to square it up. I cut out the really bad parts and then sorted what was left by length. In SketchUp I designed a frame and panel shop cabinet to utilize all that wood. I ended up with a base unit that is 24" deep, 6' long and about 42" high. The upper unit make the overall cabinet 7' tall. The only thing I had to buy was a couple of inexpensive sheets of 1/4" ply for the panels. I still have to make the doors for it but it has turned out to be very useful. Somewhere I still have the SU drawings.
A few years ago, after building my shed, I had a lot of leftover 2x lumber. I jointed and planed the stuff down to consistent sizes and to square it up. I cut out the really bad parts and then sorted what was left by length. In SketchUp I designed a frame and panel shop cabinet to utilize all that wood. I ended up with a base unit that is 24" deep, 6' long and about 42" high. The upper unit make the overall cabinet 7' tall. The only thing I had to buy was a couple of inexpensive sheets of 1/4" ply for the panels. I still have to make the doors for it but it has turned out to be very useful. Somewhere I still have the SU drawings.
ByronBlack
Established Member
Hi Dave
Your cabinet sounds good - would be interesting to see the model if you get chance. The only off-cuts i'm cutting into fuel are the lengths that are signifigantly smaller than 2' there was quite a lot, but I do still have a lot of the 6x2 and the 4x2 left in longer lengths. So I should have more enough for a couple of cabinets and the assembly table
Update
Rain stopped earlier, and is not due until late this evening, so I managed to get out in time and get the rest of the cladding finished. I'm now currently sharpening my new plane ready to get the wood for the facia's, soffits and trim pieces planed and installed.
It really hammered down earlier, and there hasn't been a spot of moisture in the workshop, so all the work to the roof has defintly been worth it. Also, because the corrugated sheets are kind of rubbery, the noise wasn't that much different to felt
Your cabinet sounds good - would be interesting to see the model if you get chance. The only off-cuts i'm cutting into fuel are the lengths that are signifigantly smaller than 2' there was quite a lot, but I do still have a lot of the 6x2 and the 4x2 left in longer lengths. So I should have more enough for a couple of cabinets and the assembly table
Update
Rain stopped earlier, and is not due until late this evening, so I managed to get out in time and get the rest of the cladding finished. I'm now currently sharpening my new plane ready to get the wood for the facia's, soffits and trim pieces planed and installed.
It really hammered down earlier, and there hasn't been a spot of moisture in the workshop, so all the work to the roof has defintly been worth it. Also, because the corrugated sheets are kind of rubbery, the noise wasn't that much different to felt
Hi Byron--shed looks great! I've really enjoyed and learnt a lot from reading this thread.
Hope you don't mind if I pick up on something Shultzy commented he is going to possible use in his shed.
Cheers Con
Hi Shultzy--For what its worth. I see you may be considering using a universal in your shed. I guess that this will be very heavy. Be very wary of using plywood flooring, I would recommend concrete. My shed has 18mm plywood floor (possibly of low quality) supported by 3x2 bearers at 400mm centres. When moving my tablesaw on its mobile stand (174kgs) the wheels on 2 or 3 occasions sunk slightly (1/4'') into the board due no doubt to the fact there were voids in the plywood. Overcame this (worked so far--keeping fingers crossed) by completely covering the plywood with MR 18mm chipboard (from Wicks) recommended to me on this forum by JFC.
Cheers Con
Hope you don't mind if I pick up on something Shultzy commented he is going to possible use in his shed.
Cheers Con
Hi Shultzy--For what its worth. I see you may be considering using a universal in your shed. I guess that this will be very heavy. Be very wary of using plywood flooring, I would recommend concrete. My shed has 18mm plywood floor (possibly of low quality) supported by 3x2 bearers at 400mm centres. When moving my tablesaw on its mobile stand (174kgs) the wheels on 2 or 3 occasions sunk slightly (1/4'') into the board due no doubt to the fact there were voids in the plywood. Overcame this (worked so far--keeping fingers crossed) by completely covering the plywood with MR 18mm chipboard (from Wicks) recommended to me on this forum by JFC.
Cheers Con
Freetochat
Established Member
Con Owen":331yuggo said:
If the floor has 'give' and you are using a machine, you could have difficulty setting up. I had a little give in my floor and it had an affect on setting up the tables of a P/T
llangatwgnedd
Established Member
If you are using those corrugated sheets remember you still need a vapour barrier or you'll have drip drip on a frosty morn as for a vibration free floor why not cut a hole in the floor as big as your biggest footprint of what ever machine, line it with polythene and pour concrete in simple and cheap. 8)
llangatwgnedd
Established Member
Wizer they are even worse for condensation Bloke few doors down is still cursing the clear ones.
I have had the bitumen ones for over six years and no sign of wear, but the caps on the nails have all popped up like what Byron is experiencing
I have had the bitumen ones for over six years and no sign of wear, but the caps on the nails have all popped up like what Byron is experiencing
Wizer , don't do it !!!!! I used the clear stuff in my build area and even in the summer it was like it was raining in there all day ! I ended up having to ply the roof and felt it and then put the clear stuff back on ( as id already bought it) .
wizer
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point taken and solved a conundrum. I've allready boarded the roof and it was a flip up between swapping the boards for corrugated or to install windows. Bit more expensive to put the windows in, but I can see will be better in terms of insulation and leaks
aldel
Established Member
Wizer,
You will rue the day if you use clear corrugated plastic. I did once. It was a huge (and costly) mistake. Terrible condensation and it rattled when windy. The plastic caps over the stainless screws kept popping after a while.
Had the roof replaced with proper ply and industrial strength burn-on felt.
Roofers fitted a secure double skin domed roof-light and even that will give condensation on cold days.
Aldel
You will rue the day if you use clear corrugated plastic. I did once. It was a huge (and costly) mistake. Terrible condensation and it rattled when windy. The plastic caps over the stainless screws kept popping after a while.
Had the roof replaced with proper ply and industrial strength burn-on felt.
Roofers fitted a secure double skin domed roof-light and even that will give condensation on cold days.
Aldel
ByronBlack
Established Member
I do have a breathable membrane on the roofing OSB, followed by the felt and then the sheeting, so hopefully that should give me enough air-flow to avoid condensation, but also to provide a nice warm roof. It will be insulated from the inside too.
Wizer, I still have quite a lot of the breathable membrane left if you want it for your workshop, should be enough for your roof and your walls.
I would really recommend the Onduline Sheeting for your roof - really fast to install, easy, light and not to costly.
Although, if I were you, I would get a good plastic adhesive to stick the screw caps down, as with others and myself, they do pop up, or sometimes don't even clip down properly, although most are ok. Again, I have a fair few left over if you wish to use them - I have no other use for them now.
Wizer, I still have quite a lot of the breathable membrane left if you want it for your workshop, should be enough for your roof and your walls.
I would really recommend the Onduline Sheeting for your roof - really fast to install, easy, light and not to costly.
Although, if I were you, I would get a good plastic adhesive to stick the screw caps down, as with others and myself, they do pop up, or sometimes don't even clip down properly, although most are ok. Again, I have a fair few left over if you wish to use them - I have no other use for them now.
Barry Burgess
Established Member
Byron your thread is riveting but you have some way to go !!
Redefining the Aussie Workbench has 17604 views and 323 replies and Birth of a Shop on Sawmill has 82817 views and 1200 replies.
Hope you beat them.
Barry
Redefining the Aussie Workbench has 17604 views and 323 replies and Birth of a Shop on Sawmill has 82817 views and 1200 replies.
Hope you beat them.
Barry
johnjin
Established Member
Hi Byron
Don't worry I will help to keep the numbers up.
This has been a fascinating read for a few weeks now. I have thorughly enjoyed reading about your ups and downs and indecisions. Thank you for starting this thread and reporting it all so honestly. I am sure it has been a big help to a lot of people as well as entertaining. Best of luck with the rest of the project and I will be looking for updates every day.
All the best
John
Don't worry I will help to keep the numbers up.
This has been a fascinating read for a few weeks now. I have thorughly enjoyed reading about your ups and downs and indecisions. Thank you for starting this thread and reporting it all so honestly. I am sure it has been a big help to a lot of people as well as entertaining. Best of luck with the rest of the project and I will be looking for updates every day.
All the best
John
Shultzy
Established Member
Con Owen - Thanks for your comments. I will be using 3/4" t&g flooring on 6x2 @ 16" centres in my workshop. I never considered plywood as I thought it would have too much give for a universal. I'm also going to use 5/8" t&g on the roof and use heavy duty roof felt. I've designed it as a 1 in 6 pent roof so I should'nt have the problems of a flat roof. I have had a 6x4 shed for nearly 20 years and I've had to recover it 3 times due to high winds ripping the felt. The felt I'm using now is much thicker so I don't think I'll have the same issues.
mrbingley
Established Member
Wizer, if you go the sheeting way, remember to strike a chalk line where the fastenings go.
That way you'll end up with a straight line of fixings without missing any joist fixing points.
Chris.
That way you'll end up with a straight line of fixings without missing any joist fixing points.
Chris.
dedee
Established Member
BB/Wizer,
I've had the corrugated bitumen sheets for abour 5 or 6 years fitted to rafters and purlins with nothing underneath & have never noticed condensation. Admittedly they are on an unheated garden shed. I have used the corrugated foam fillers at the eaves with gaps for ventilation.
I got worried about those caps popping and initially stuck them down with black roofing mastik filler. I don't bother anymore and there are no signs of leaks.
Andy
I've had the corrugated bitumen sheets for abour 5 or 6 years fitted to rafters and purlins with nothing underneath & have never noticed condensation. Admittedly they are on an unheated garden shed. I have used the corrugated foam fillers at the eaves with gaps for ventilation.
I got worried about those caps popping and initially stuck them down with black roofing mastik filler. I don't bother anymore and there are no signs of leaks.
Andy
