Byrons Official Workshop Build Thread

[Jake]

Tyvek is the biggest brand for this stuff and should be quality stuff.

(I wasn't advocating that particular product, or supplier, over any other, Byron, just using it as an example of a breathable membrane).

 

[ByronBlack]

Jake - wish you could have told me that before I put the cladding on, not much I can do about it now i'm afraid other than add it to the others

Sorry, bad timing... I was away for most this thread, that's my excuse.

This is the best sort to use: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 0&ts=36533. It's more pricey but it will avoid condensation forming on the inside of the membrane and running down to potentially rot the framing timbers.

On the one you've already clad, you could run it over the top of the insides of the joists, stapling it so it runs like this:

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If that makes sense. It isn't quite so good in that it won't be protecting the studding, but at least it will keep the insulation/wall linings dry. The framing will be ventilated through the cladding so should be OK - give it some preservative on that wall maybe. And stick that wall on the sheltered side as Mark suggested.

Jake - thanks for the link, not sure i'm following your diagram though, do you mean to put the membrane inside the frame (opposite side to the cladding) and staple aginst the sides of the studding?

Also, preservative is being painted on the cladding as we speak, and this will be the wall that will be protected by the fence and next-doors trees. Should I also paint the inside of the frame with preservative before putting the membrane on?

I'll add the membrane as normal to the other three frames before the cladding goes on.

Another question, what stage does the vapour barrier go on, or do I not need one when using that membrane?

 

[Jake]

Jake - thanks for the link, not sure i'm following your diagram though, do you mean to put the membrane inside the frame (opposite side to the cladding) and staple aginst the sides of the studding?

Yes, exactly. I'm puzzling now whether that would be better or worse than nothing.

Also, preservative is being painted on the cladding as we speak, and this will be the wall that will be protected by the fence and next-doors trees. Should I also paint the inside of the frame with preservative before putting the membrane on?

Only on that one frame

Another question, what stage does the vapour barrier go on, or do I not need one when using that membrane?

Dpm goes on the inside behind under the wall lining, they are dead cheap so worth doing if you are insulating and heating the shed.

 

[ByronBlack]

Cheers for the clarification Jake, much appreciated. I'm going to go ahead and order that stuff from screwfix as i'm starting the cladding tomorrow

They do a slightly smaller roll for £67 which should just be enough so it's not too much of a stress aginst my wallet.

 

[llangatwgnedd]

Byron I done mine with that cheap blue plastic tarpaulin from b&q at the end of day its moisture barrier your after.

 

[ByronBlack]

Day 10 Summary

What a day! Little talk, just loads of photo's, and a small summary at the end:

1. Left-hand frame painted ready for raising:

2. Frame raised and rear frame attached to leftside:

3. All frames now raised and bolts going in:

4. Feeling proud - and relieved, it's been hardwork getting to this stage:

5. SWMBO - Helped throughout:

6. A view from the back bedroom/office:

7. A semi-arty shot:

8. The trench I dug that will hold a gravel line to help drainage:

9. The finished walls and base, ready for the roof on friday (if it doesn't run):

So, the frames are raised, the main trench for gravel is dug. My dad was a huge help today and really helped me get all the frames in place and square. We attached a couple of temporary beams overnight to help get the structure secure in case of high winds.

Cladding and Roofing will probably be completed on saturday as we are due for a day of rain in friday - and I need a rest!!

I have ordered some breathable membrane as advised by Jake - this will go on before the cladding, and a couple of coats of preservative will be given all round - we have chosed 'mint green' for the front, facia boards and other details, and a regular honey colour for the side.

Jobs left to do before I deem it usable:

1. Cladding
2. Install Roof
3. Add some diagonal cross bracing on frames to avoid raking
4. Make and install polycarb windows
5. Hang doors
6. Lay flag-stone or decking in front of the shed
7. Lay gravel drainage
8. Make room for the radio and the kettle!

It feels like i've hit a real landmark today and have some physical evidence of all the backbreaking work we've done for the best part of two weeks. However, ironicaly, it feels like i'm now at the beginning of the project, with all the above to complete, plus internal insulation and cladding, making cabinets, workbenches, and installing electricity equally large landmarks.

I go back to work next tuesday and will have to summon the energy over the next couple of months to continue work on the workshop and have it complete in as quick time as my wallet will allow!

I'm going to sleep for 24 hours!

 

[Les Mahon]

Byron,

your playing a blinder! fair play to you. I know just how hard this work is having built a simmilar desing workshop 18 months ago. I hope for your sake you don't do what I did and move houe 14 months later!

One point on your list of still to do.

3. Add some diagonal cross bracing on frames to avoid raking

I would not bother because when you screw 8x4 sheets to the inside of the frames there will be no racking. At least that was my experience.

Best of luck with getting it finished.

Les

 

[Colin C]

Well done Byron
You are bringing back the memorys of doing mine with was done mostly on my own :shock:
One tip, Before you move every thing in :roll: , try to plan where things might work best but you might find that some things will need moving when you are all in :wink:

 

[dedee]

BB,
I'm following this and the other shop build threads with interest.

Would you care to share your thoughts on item 4 - the windows.

My existing shed - er workshop has no opening windows, just a single door. In the summer it gets hot and there is no way to even get a breeze through the shop. In my head I have plans to ensure my next workshop will have openings (either door or window) on at least two walls.

Will your polycarb windows be opening? What are your thoughts on the security aspect of polycarb vs toughened or even strengthened glass?

Andy

 

[Colin C]

I am not sure on polycarb windows ( problem with plastic is it sratchs ).
From what Ihave been told, dont go for toughened as when it breaks it goes in to small pieces but laminate glass stays together if it breaks.
The choice is yours
I was lucky as my nexy door nabour gave me double glazed windows with wooded frames and I have 5 in the work shop

 

[nickson71]

I got a double glazed unit from ebay ......... very cheap and the altered the hole to fit it ........ mind you I hadn't built my workshop frame at the point I got the window

 

[mailee]

I made my own windows using double glazed units for all of them apart from the rear which overlooks a golf course. In this one I put two layers of Lexan just to be on the safe side. I also built the doors with double glazed units and all of them are opening for the summer as it does get extrememly hot in there when the machines are running. I useed the screw down fasteners to secure the windows in the closed position too so they are secure. Hope this may be of help to you. Oh and by the way it only cost around £80 for all of the double glazed units to be made to my sizes. :wink:

 

[Freetochat]

Very good progress. I originally fitted out my workshop with fixed bench etc., but changed to movable. It has helped when needing to gain space for a project.

 

[twister]

Byron, have followed the post with interest. You're doing a fantastic job, and it's great that you're sharing the process with everyone. Not that I'm jealous but I feel like knocking down my workshop and starting again .
I noticed you've put Kettle & radio on your list, don't forget the electrics :!:
Are you going to surface mount the cable & sockets, or are you going to run the cable in the wall cavity and fit flush mounted sockets?
How are you going to get the SWA cable into the workshop? through the wall or up through the floor?
I sure you're looking foward to having a nice long rest when you go back to work next week :!: :!:

 

[j]

Thanks for this thread,
I have absolutely no intention of building a workshop, but I still find it fascinating

With regards to the heat issue, An idea might be to put in some kind of roof vent, to allow hot air to escape out the top of the workshop.
Maybe this could be combined with the exhaust of a woodburner to allow both heating and cooling from the same hole.

Or even put in a skylight but then you'd have to worry about making it water tight.

Just a thought.

 

[engineer one]

hi byron, this is growing like topsy.
since you are allegedly resting to day, you might consider
nipping down to smiths, wh that is, and checking out
the latest issue of woodworker, it is a plans issue, and
contains a long article about shed building.
you never know you might find something you might
have missed.

all the best
paul :wink:

 

[ByronBlack]

Guy's!

Thanks for all the messages and words of encouragment - means a lot!

I can't reply to everyones individual points, but rest assured all your suggestions, advice and insights are being taken into conisderation.

With regards the windows - I intend to make them all opening, 8 in total, four down the right hand side, two at the back, and two at the front either side of the door which will also be glazed. I'm going to use Polycarb to being with, and replace with better glass later down the line when the money situation is a little more healthier.

Electrics - havn't got my thoughts/plans that far as yet, tracey's (swmbo) dad is a good electrician, so i'm going to wait a couple of weeks for him to come over and see what he thinks, he has a mate who is a Part P registered electrician and will do the job for me on the cheap, in all probability, i'll run the cable underground, and come up through the floor at the front into a consumer unit, and then have the cable running aroudn the workshop behind the sheathing - sockets will be all round, probably a couple of doubles on each side.

Today is abit of a disaster, after putting up the tarps late last night to protect it from, I came down this morning to find loads of water had got in and drenched the timbers/floor - after about an hour of fighting against the terential down pour, we got the floor and the timbers covered with a poly sheet and managed most of the drips/ingress - the forecast seems to be favourable for the rest of the day and tomorrow - i'll have to get a real wiggle on to get the roof done.

 

[Johnboy]

Byron, put more than a couple of double sockets down each side. My workshop is 20" x 12" and I have 12 double sockets and still find I have to unplug something to put something else in at times. It is cheap and easy to put them in now, much harder to add them later.

Great job so far, pity about the rain today although it is brightening up now.

John

 

[engineer one]

just an update having read it, the woodworker thingie, is
a reprint of the whole alan holtham series of articles
about shed building. probably worth the fiver there.
also it includes a list of all of their plans, plus an offer on
some discounts, and included are 3 tear out plans.

paul :wink:

 

[wizer]

wow Byron, this thread is a wealth of info. It's got me thinking about things I hadn't even considered.

Deffo put more sockets in mate. I'm having 4 doubles on 2 walls plus some ceiling and floor mounted sockets.