Buying a heavy bandsaw + 3 phase inverter/conversion
- Thread starter CMax
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Presumably you have 16a socket for anything in this category say 3 hp single phase...
this (same as mine )machine is huge compared to the new far eastern 20" i had prior, which would be similar to the itech or laguna sizewise.
there are some pics of that I can add later while not on a tablet.
Since you'd even consider looking at that machine, then you might as well be looking at three phase, if even to swap a motor out.
I wouldn't think twice about hooking up a vfd myself, as you could be learning about that instead of seeking endless snippets of info about either bandsaw,
In the same time for someone with a hole burning in ones pocket.
Probably about two days of the archives of Startrite tablesaws, and reading bobs document could do that.
Back and fourth and it will tie together what Bob (myfordman) is sayin.
Come back with questions if unclear about something/ anything.
It would open up a world of possibilities regarding cheap machine s
Then you could do some more research into what you might like , i.e Euro guides and stouter components,
Quick release tension becomes negliable with beefy screw, but tires might be needing work, or might take some seeking to find something suitable, which for a standard size wheel might be the same deal with any, ...bar the centauro with grooved wheels.
The centauro you mentioned earlier has slight crowned tires, whilst the larger Italian saws like the 24" have flat tires, and might not suit narrow blades.
I'd not be concerned about filling the void on a compact centauro 500mm if I wanted crowned tires, I'd fill'em.
Still likely noticeably larger than the far eastern equivalent sized wheeled machine, which likely have cambered tires.
Just in case one might be seeking to resaw the toughest exotics, then carbide blades might make sense,
Say down the road should they become a bit more available, it would likely be a good idea to make sure the saw could tension one comfortably.
See deema and sideways thread about that.
Tom
Last edited:
I’ll be installing a 16amp socket to accommodate the bigger motors.
To be honest, I'm not seriously considering the Star 600. Just found it and thought it looked good value, but in reality it's going to swamp my single-car garage (both in my current house and the one I'm moving to). 14-18" is going to probably be maximum/ideal.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Obviously you're a newcomer to the bandsaw market.
Bigger machines can be bought for very little.
This machine cost me 500 quid (euros)
There's a Socomec 560 saw going for under 500 quid on the bay, (buy it now)
and another the same for loadsa cash.
Not quite as nice as some Italian machines though.
i.e cork/rubbertires I've seen on some,
smaller motor possibly, undersized really if only a 2HP/1.5KW motor .
Guide post looks like withoit rack and pinnion
(all features which are likely better on the Eastern machines)
I run this 3 phase machine via a hundred quid VFD and it works just fine from the 13a household plug.
It's got a three horse 2.2kw motor (dual voltage motor, which can be run on 240v)
(adjustable startup to suit supply, as that's where the problem lies with single phase, runs on something like 4 amps stationary.
Around the same as me auld laptop.
Say you want to get all the options, once again Bob's induction motor document goes step by step through all these options.
Massive 24" Italian machine compared to a compact far Eastern 20"
Seems an Italian 20" machine will be too large,
but a Far Eastern won't be any larger,
and could be got for a steal if open minded to the three phase market.
i.e 500 quid, double that for the nicer Centauro 500, or nice SNAC 540 machine.
Very compact machine, and equal or lesser footprint to something on legs
like this one for example.
The 20" is a lot easier to move also.
No reason not to look for a 3 phase bandsaw IMO,
so much smoother compared to the startup of single phase,
say for even a wee cut, it might make the difference between choosing by hand or machine, I wouldn't be as keen to use otherwise.
But there is other factors also which makes a more spacious machine more user friendly like larger table which I wouldn't be without now. less dust and safer.
That doesn't sound like an option for you,
but nothing stopping one from making some hinged table if wanted.
Hopefully you can get an impression of both in the shed.
A grand would likely get you a very nice machine if you wait
and study Bob's document.
You might even find it interesting!
Some machines below for insight.
Waste of space, compared to something capable
A 20" lemon i had which got returned...
Shoulda tested it before making a base up for it, lol.
How bout some more machines from the bay
I have a nice collection of piccies grabbed from the net
A happy chappie with what looks to be a 20" machine.
Just to give an impression of size difference between a budget machine and a premium Italian one
Or how about a nice Wadkin, once again larger footprint
T'was 800 pound good few years back
You might have spotted this one from a dealer, that's a 500 quid upcharge.
was sitting for a good while
there was a larger one listed at the same time, in similar nick for cheaper
This SNAC was going for nearly 2 grand, or best offer... it was listed for about a year.
Iwonder what they took for it?
It may have been serviced to be looking for that much
I could try and find an real old Startrite 502,they look pretty good too.
These last few are just some of the other premium machines,
bout 20 different Italain machines which might be an option if too cheap to resist,especially if its a Centauro
These will generally command the highest prices as they can do it all in the littlest space.
The Eastern equivalents (in wheel size) on the bay will be half the price
but do make sure it's running well, as you could be lumped with a lemon.
Some are larger than others.
(all Italians share most of the same components, Euro guides tool free , pricey stuff like guides from Scott and Sargeant, but bearings and belts are standard, cheap and available everywhere.
Good luck with whatever you choose
All the best
Tom
p.s Hopefully you might get the impression that you will get all the advise
you need in step by step easy digestable fashion,
should you wish to go the three phase VFD route.
There's about 20 things to learn which wouldn't take long to go through.
There's never disagreements in regards to parameters, everyone will advise the same thing.
Just sayin incase you find a nice machine going for real cheap,
its good to know what to look for.
I can post a few other dual voltage motors later if I can find some examples
like whats on Bob's document.
See 220-240v (volts) that's yer household supply
The D is for delta...low voltage configuration, takes about 1 minute to take off terminal box lid and and change three straps around, possibly already done for you, possibly schematics to show you, or here or "the other place 2"if stuck, say if you like it from the horses mouth.
Delta is often noted by a triangle symbol most of the time.
You just gotta see 240v on a three phase motor nameplate, and you've got something which will run with a VFD/inverter.
I wouldn't go beyond 3hp/2.2kw if using a 13a household plug.
You can de-rate the motor, but I cannot advise about that as I only know the basics and like to play it safe.
Three rules
No touchy input and output wires,even after unplugged caps inside store lethal charge.
No pluggy in between motor and VFD
Understanding the parameters is vital, as some of these are set at factory default 400hz (RPM related) which would cook the motor going so fast.
Takes about 2 days to be familiar with everything.
Ask away if unsure about these parameters,
Likely will get more answers with a premium unit ,
and any answers you will get here or the other place2, will state the same thing.
Tom
Bigger machines can be bought for very little.
This machine cost me 500 quid (euros)
There's a Socomec 560 saw going for under 500 quid on the bay, (buy it now)
and another the same for loadsa cash.
Not quite as nice as some Italian machines though.
i.e cork/rubbertires I've seen on some,
smaller motor possibly, undersized really if only a 2HP/1.5KW motor .
Guide post looks like withoit rack and pinnion
(all features which are likely better on the Eastern machines)
I run this 3 phase machine via a hundred quid VFD and it works just fine from the 13a household plug.
It's got a three horse 2.2kw motor (dual voltage motor, which can be run on 240v)
(adjustable startup to suit supply, as that's where the problem lies with single phase, runs on something like 4 amps stationary.
Around the same as me auld laptop.
Say you want to get all the options, once again Bob's induction motor document goes step by step through all these options.
Massive 24" Italian machine compared to a compact far Eastern 20"
Seems an Italian 20" machine will be too large,
but a Far Eastern won't be any larger,
and could be got for a steal if open minded to the three phase market.
i.e 500 quid, double that for the nicer Centauro 500, or nice SNAC 540 machine.
Very compact machine, and equal or lesser footprint to something on legs
like this one for example.
The 20" is a lot easier to move also.
No reason not to look for a 3 phase bandsaw IMO,
so much smoother compared to the startup of single phase,
say for even a wee cut, it might make the difference between choosing by hand or machine, I wouldn't be as keen to use otherwise.
But there is other factors also which makes a more spacious machine more user friendly like larger table which I wouldn't be without now. less dust and safer.
That doesn't sound like an option for you,
but nothing stopping one from making some hinged table if wanted.
Hopefully you can get an impression of both in the shed.
A grand would likely get you a very nice machine if you wait
and study Bob's document.
You might even find it interesting!
Some machines below for insight.
Waste of space, compared to something capable
A 20" lemon i had which got returned...
Shoulda tested it before making a base up for it, lol.
How bout some more machines from the bay
I have a nice collection of piccies grabbed from the net
A happy chappie with what looks to be a 20" machine.
Just to give an impression of size difference between a budget machine and a premium Italian one
Or how about a nice Wadkin, once again larger footprint
T'was 800 pound good few years back
You might have spotted this one from a dealer, that's a 500 quid upcharge.
was sitting for a good while
there was a larger one listed at the same time, in similar nick for cheaper
This SNAC was going for nearly 2 grand, or best offer... it was listed for about a year.
Iwonder what they took for it?
It may have been serviced to be looking for that much
I could try and find an real old Startrite 502,they look pretty good too.
These last few are just some of the other premium machines,
bout 20 different Italain machines which might be an option if too cheap to resist,especially if its a Centauro
These will generally command the highest prices as they can do it all in the littlest space.
The Eastern equivalents (in wheel size) on the bay will be half the price
but do make sure it's running well, as you could be lumped with a lemon.
Some are larger than others.
(all Italians share most of the same components, Euro guides tool free , pricey stuff like guides from Scott and Sargeant, but bearings and belts are standard, cheap and available everywhere.
Good luck with whatever you choose
All the best
Tom
p.s Hopefully you might get the impression that you will get all the advise
you need in step by step easy digestable fashion,
should you wish to go the three phase VFD route.
There's about 20 things to learn which wouldn't take long to go through.
There's never disagreements in regards to parameters, everyone will advise the same thing.
Just sayin incase you find a nice machine going for real cheap,
its good to know what to look for.
I can post a few other dual voltage motors later if I can find some examples
like whats on Bob's document.
See 220-240v (volts) that's yer household supply
The D is for delta...low voltage configuration, takes about 1 minute to take off terminal box lid and and change three straps around, possibly already done for you, possibly schematics to show you, or here or "the other place 2"if stuck, say if you like it from the horses mouth.
Delta is often noted by a triangle symbol most of the time.
You just gotta see 240v on a three phase motor nameplate, and you've got something which will run with a VFD/inverter.
I wouldn't go beyond 3hp/2.2kw if using a 13a household plug.
You can de-rate the motor, but I cannot advise about that as I only know the basics and like to play it safe.
Three rules
No touchy input and output wires,even after unplugged caps inside store lethal charge.
No pluggy in between motor and VFD
Understanding the parameters is vital, as some of these are set at factory default 400hz (RPM related) which would cook the motor going so fast.
Takes about 2 days to be familiar with everything.
Ask away if unsure about these parameters,
Likely will get more answers with a premium unit ,
and any answers you will get here or the other place2, will state the same thing.
Tom
Last edited:
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
I know this thread may have possibly steered into a bit of a differing thing in regards to the original topic, but I feel I may as well give one..
(whomever may glean from this thread in the archives)
a taster of what needs doing.
(as always ask on these forums, and don't do anything without understanding Bob's document)
These things have direct current which stores lethal charge after being unplugged!
Don't touch the input or output wires
Here's some examples of dual voltage motors
The lid is whipped off the terminal box and showing delta (low voltage) configuration.
This VFD has not been powered on before, and has been in the shed for a few days.
You might need to do some clean up of sawdust build up, worth inspecting.
Three brass straps orientated like so,
With star (high voltage configuration) the straps are on one side of the terminals
joining only three together, notable by the fact the three terminals
joined,would mean one of those straps is simply stacked on top of the other one, so no brass is poking around.
You will need crimp connectors, about 2quid at electrical or car shops.
You can create the needed flat profile with a smooth section of needle nose pliers and some elbow grease.
If at a leccy shop, then you have options on which "four core" cable you wish.
(three hots and an earth)
Deema suggests some fancy cable with better insulation. (rubber sheath)
The original cable might have some protective conduit which is hopefully in good nick.
You can get "cable glands" for a few quid which will need to fit the cable.
Depending on what flavour cable you wish from suggestions,
then you might want glands to suit the cable for the input (your supply) side also.
Note that it may be a tight squeeze to get some types of cable into a 13 amp household plug.
Once again if really wanting to push the machine, then obviously one would suggest
getting 16 amp supply.
I've never noted any warming of the cable from what use,
not challenging the machine really, it's got big wheels which have a lot of momentum and thus not very challenging on supply,
I guess... not got herself to have a look at the readings with the new smart meter ,
but will someday for fun.
Some look a bit different, you will get answers once you read up Bob's document
That's the motor changed to dual voltage, if it's not already so.
If you don't know your parameters yet,
then get learning from Bob's document,otherwise the magic smoke will be let out!
If stuck, then you can get making a box for the thing.
5 folds of metal makes a square to be screwed together, not four stupid!
A back and a lid and you've got a box, if you don't have something suitable already.
The measurements for air flow are on the VFD book
I went a few mm too narrow as I had an exit sign handy, longer than specified so a bit of leway perhaps.
Once again,I don't give the saw the full hog.
By the way,stacking two earths like so, (into confined earth terminal) isn't recommended.
Standard procedure is to BOLT those earths to the cabinet with another stacked tail
going into earth terminal on VFD.
(cheapie drives like below have small confinements and delicate compared to some)
This should all be done on the machine, just a brief test which I wouldn't recommend .
On a bandsaw, MAKE SURE no blade is installed!!!!!!!
It could run backwards! a 50/50 chance of that.
DO NOT GO NEAR THOSE OUTPUT TERMINALS
Does it appear to have 240v written on the name plate?
What KW rating do you see? (it's a 1.5 and not a 7.5 BTW)
I wouldn't go beyond 2.2kw /3 hp
Can also see that it is a two pole motor at around 2840 -3000 RPM
a four pole will be slower by 50%
That's enough for ya to know what you should be looking for,
I can give ye another nameplate soyou can give yourself a pop quiz,
go read Bob's document obviously.
Just trying to give you enough knowledge to spot a dual voltage motor which can be run on 240v,you need to see 240v.
Then your good to go hunting.
All the best
Hopefully that will do someone a favour.
Good luck and read Bob's helpful documents and other threads here will make sense of it.
Always folks on here or the other place2 which will answer any questions you may have.
You'll grab yourself a bargain once your eyes are open to the world of three phase machinery.
Regards to the one with the thin wallet
(whomever may glean from this thread in the archives)
a taster of what needs doing.
(as always ask on these forums, and don't do anything without understanding Bob's document)
These things have direct current which stores lethal charge after being unplugged!
Don't touch the input or output wires
Here's some examples of dual voltage motors
The lid is whipped off the terminal box and showing delta (low voltage) configuration.
This VFD has not been powered on before, and has been in the shed for a few days.
You might need to do some clean up of sawdust build up, worth inspecting.
Three brass straps orientated like so,
With star (high voltage configuration) the straps are on one side of the terminals
joining only three together, notable by the fact the three terminals
joined,would mean one of those straps is simply stacked on top of the other one, so no brass is poking around.
You will need crimp connectors, about 2quid at electrical or car shops.
You can create the needed flat profile with a smooth section of needle nose pliers and some elbow grease.
If at a leccy shop, then you have options on which "four core" cable you wish.
(three hots and an earth)
Deema suggests some fancy cable with better insulation. (rubber sheath)
The original cable might have some protective conduit which is hopefully in good nick.
You can get "cable glands" for a few quid which will need to fit the cable.
Depending on what flavour cable you wish from suggestions,
then you might want glands to suit the cable for the input (your supply) side also.
Note that it may be a tight squeeze to get some types of cable into a 13 amp household plug.
Once again if really wanting to push the machine, then obviously one would suggest
getting 16 amp supply.
I've never noted any warming of the cable from what use,
not challenging the machine really, it's got big wheels which have a lot of momentum and thus not very challenging on supply,
I guess... not got herself to have a look at the readings with the new smart meter ,
but will someday for fun.
Some look a bit different, you will get answers once you read up Bob's document
That's the motor changed to dual voltage, if it's not already so.
If you don't know your parameters yet,
then get learning from Bob's document,otherwise the magic smoke will be let out!
If stuck, then you can get making a box for the thing.
5 folds of metal makes a square to be screwed together, not four stupid!
A back and a lid and you've got a box, if you don't have something suitable already.
The measurements for air flow are on the VFD book
I went a few mm too narrow as I had an exit sign handy, longer than specified so a bit of leway perhaps.
Once again,I don't give the saw the full hog.
By the way,stacking two earths like so, (into confined earth terminal) isn't recommended.
Standard procedure is to BOLT those earths to the cabinet with another stacked tail
going into earth terminal on VFD.
(cheapie drives like below have small confinements and delicate compared to some)
This should all be done on the machine, just a brief test which I wouldn't recommend .
On a bandsaw, MAKE SURE no blade is installed!!!!!!!
It could run backwards! a 50/50 chance of that.
DO NOT GO NEAR THOSE OUTPUT TERMINALS
Does it appear to have 240v written on the name plate?
What KW rating do you see? (it's a 1.5 and not a 7.5 BTW)
I wouldn't go beyond 2.2kw /3 hp
Can also see that it is a two pole motor at around 2840 -3000 RPM
a four pole will be slower by 50%
That's enough for ya to know what you should be looking for,
I can give ye another nameplate soyou can give yourself a pop quiz,
go read Bob's document obviously.
Just trying to give you enough knowledge to spot a dual voltage motor which can be run on 240v,you need to see 240v.
Then your good to go hunting.
All the best
Hopefully that will do someone a favour.
Good luck and read Bob's helpful documents and other threads here will make sense of it.
Always folks on here or the other place2 which will answer any questions you may have.
You'll grab yourself a bargain once your eyes are open to the world of three phase machinery.
Regards to the one with the thin wallet
That's a lot of detailed information, Tom. Thank you for sharing that. I'm sure it'll be useful for others who find this thread, but having spent the last few hours reading the document and considering this, I'm going to avoid 3 phase. To some it'll be an easy thing to do, but I'm really not cut out for electrical work or machine restoration--or the time required for both. I just know I'll either screw something up or lose interest and have a bandsaw gathering dust in the garage.
For some, it totally makes sense to save the money and get an old 3 phase machine, but for me, a humble hobbyist, peace of mind and accessibility of either a new machine or a used single phase is worth the extra financial cost to me.
As of now, I'm mostly thinking new. There's a used machine I'm looking at but that one will depend on the costs to pick it up. It'd be about a 10hr round journey + cost of a van and help (or a haulage charge). Neither option appeals really, especially as new saws can be delivered for negligible costs or even free from their respective suppliers.
For those interested, of the new saws, I'm currently considering:
Laguna 14BX
iTech BS400
Esperto 440
RP Sabre 450
IF I want to go cheaper and it can resaw what I need: RP Sabre 350.
And the cheapest of all: a frame saw kit
For some, it totally makes sense to save the money and get an old 3 phase machine, but for me, a humble hobbyist, peace of mind and accessibility of either a new machine or a used single phase is worth the extra financial cost to me.
As of now, I'm mostly thinking new. There's a used machine I'm looking at but that one will depend on the costs to pick it up. It'd be about a 10hr round journey + cost of a van and help (or a haulage charge). Neither option appeals really, especially as new saws can be delivered for negligible costs or even free from their respective suppliers.
For those interested, of the new saws, I'm currently considering:
Laguna 14BX
iTech BS400
Esperto 440
RP Sabre 450
IF I want to go cheaper and it can resaw what I need: RP Sabre 350.
And the cheapest of all: a frame saw kit
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
No bother helping anyone as I felt one should get an idea of whats involved since the thread has a title like so.
Presumably a lot of these may need 16amp sockets?
Some other considerations in that category could be the N4400
Derek likely has some juicy articles about his machine, as do others,
and the ACM 440, updated design changeover from the SNAC line.
edit I see it's a consideration, I was thinking it was Centauro's line.
They have a few, the smart looks a tidy little machine.
Someone done a fairly thorough unboxing video on the itech recently, looks a solid wee thing. I'd pick the heaviest with largest motor, likely 2hp on most I'd guess, maybe not on some of those hammers?, well overseas anyways.
Matt Estlea has something likely most similar to the itech, which might give an idea of performance.
Any dealers of Meber in UK? Conway saw or Scott and Sargeant?
Just giving some ideas.
Good luck
Tom
Presumably a lot of these may need 16amp sockets?
Some other considerations in that category could be the N4400
Derek likely has some juicy articles about his machine, as do others,
and the ACM 440, updated design changeover from the SNAC line.
edit I see it's a consideration, I was thinking it was Centauro's line.
They have a few, the smart looks a tidy little machine.
Someone done a fairly thorough unboxing video on the itech recently, looks a solid wee thing. I'd pick the heaviest with largest motor, likely 2hp on most I'd guess, maybe not on some of those hammers?, well overseas anyways.
Matt Estlea has something likely most similar to the itech, which might give an idea of performance.
Any dealers of Meber in UK? Conway saw or Scott and Sargeant?
Just giving some ideas.
Good luck
Tom
Last edited:
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
The six million dollar question for you maybe...
Is there a noticeable difference between a SNA 400, and an SNAC 440?
Seemingly same motor on many of what I've seen, the 100mm bigger wheeled brother above.
Could it be the resaw wars going on in the States, matching wheel size with equal under the guides, SCM like, likely a lot more expensive of 440 machine, seemingly made by ACM somewhere.
Italian's been casting bandwheels for a long time.
It could be to match the Hammer line,
Tire availability, not an easy process to make green ones I hear.
or it could be just some bandsaw fanatics in Italy banging on about their SNAC, sega a nastros!
Is there a noticeable difference between a SNA 400, and an SNAC 440?
Seemingly same motor on many of what I've seen, the 100mm bigger wheeled brother above.
Could it be the resaw wars going on in the States, matching wheel size with equal under the guides, SCM like, likely a lot more expensive of 440 machine, seemingly made by ACM somewhere.
Italian's been casting bandwheels for a long time.
It could be to match the Hammer line,
Tire availability, not an easy process to make green ones I hear.
or it could be just some bandsaw fanatics in Italy banging on about their SNAC, sega a nastros!
Yes. Most I've looked at require 16amp sockets, which is fine with me. I can accommodate that both in my current and new place.
Sadly, the 440 isn't available; they're backlogged for months currently. I had considered the Centauro Smart 400, but having chatted with the guys at S&S, it's a bit too entry-level compared to others on my list, despite being Italian.
Yeah, there's a really good video on it on YT. I watched that recently and was quite impressed. It's also the same machine as the Startrite 403 that Paul Sellers uses in his videos; S&S took it over from Record Power. So at least it has a good history with lots of spares availability.
Some are, the Record Power machines are a little less. The iTech is 2hp and weighs 160kg, so a pretty solid machine at this level compared to others, I think.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Presuming the Hammer being too expensive, the Meber P400 doesn't inspire confidence only being 120kg.
Interesting to note the impression of the smart machine from those knowledgeable guys, seemingly in the same league as the Meber so.
There maybe other suppliers of the ACM saws, sold by various companies
might be worth asking around.
Might even get a display model for cheaper, if it's not the older SNA 400's without the extra 40mm unless they also stocked the SNAC line.
Good luck
Tom
Felder / Hammer didn't respond to my inquiry, but having spoken with someone else, their delivery charges are... out of budget
I've looked around for a used one, but no luck on that front so far.They say it's a good saw, but to get it in under 2k they've had to make a few compromises. For example, it has quite a thin stainless steel table instead of cast iron, only a 1hp motor, and low RPM compared to the iTech.
Thanks, I'll have a search and see if anything crops up. I'm currently leaning toward the iTech, though. S&S have been the most helpful of all the companies I've contacted (that matters to me) and can deliver very quickly (also a big bonus).
But with invertors you are limited to 4Kw, you need one for each machine and decent inverters don't come cheap. Avoid the cheapo ones because they are like cheap wall plug in adaptors in that they leave out some or all of the required protective circuitry. The only ones I would and have used are Abb, Mitsibishi and Siemens which you can trust. Best option if you do want to get the bigger and cheaper three phase machines is to buy a digital phase converter and get some three phase sockets properly wired in from a distribution board. Even better is to get a three phase supply.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
@Spectric I don't have the equipment to lift anything larger than my kit already.
I am a tenant who doesn't want to add more reasons to have my rent put up, doing a good job of that already fixing up the place.
Don't have the funds for the fancy VFD's, and the used fancy ones are always three phase in drives.
I wouldn't mind a dust extractor, but that would be likely the last large machine I'd need, be a long time until I'd see me getting my hands on a spindle motor,
and agree with you there about having the use of both machine and extractor at the same time,
and at that stage I'd definitely consider upgrading the drives to fancy ones, but my use now is a bit more domestic, and I have no time constraints,
so can take a break using my bandsaw and give the circuitry some time to cool,
whichever part that would be, whatever's attached to the heatsink I guess.
It works for me being mostly a hand tool woodworker/ and machine bodger until then, and if I do go that route and have some space, then those cheapies can be used for other shenanigans.
Cheers
Tom
I am a tenant who doesn't want to add more reasons to have my rent put up, doing a good job of that already fixing up the place.
Don't have the funds for the fancy VFD's, and the used fancy ones are always three phase in drives.
I wouldn't mind a dust extractor, but that would be likely the last large machine I'd need, be a long time until I'd see me getting my hands on a spindle motor,
and agree with you there about having the use of both machine and extractor at the same time,
and at that stage I'd definitely consider upgrading the drives to fancy ones, but my use now is a bit more domestic, and I have no time constraints,
so can take a break using my bandsaw and give the circuitry some time to cool,
whichever part that would be, whatever's attached to the heatsink I guess.
It works for me being mostly a hand tool woodworker/ and machine bodger until then, and if I do go that route and have some space, then those cheapies can be used for other shenanigans.
Cheers
Tom
The drivers are normaly IGFETs (Insulated Gate Field Effect Transistors ) and they are normally reliable, it is often the capacitors that pop because cheaper drives don't use decent ones that can handle higher ripple and lower disipation. These are a key component in getting a smooth Dc voltage from the Ac in the conversion process before the electronics convert to the three phase Ac.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Starite 352 isn't that big and is fairly easy to move on a sack trolley if you are fairly fit - but two people could make it easier to load - again not difficult except for the length.
Take off the table and the blade first.
I've since bought a Minimax S45N. It's going to arrive bolted vertically on a 1200mm x 1200mm pallet. The weight is around 220kg. Do you think it's movable with a sack truck? I'll need to drag it a short distance across a block paved driveway and then up a 6" step into my garage.
My other thought was to unbolt it from the pallet and lower it on its spine to something like this (it supports 300kg).
I'd make a ramp up the step into the garage. But as I've never shifted something this heavy before, I don't know if it's possible for me to pull it up a ramp. I could get some ratchet straps and make a make-shift pulley using a steel ring attached to the rear garage wall.
Suffice to say, I'll be making a wheeled base for the saw to get it into position within the garage. Here's a pic of the step I'll need to navigate:
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
I've said some tips earlier about some things, like table off etc.
Buy some cheap poundshop swivel casters and attach them to an offcut of ply.
It'll make a better dolly than then one you linked as you will be able to push the saw lengthwise instead of carrying like a dog with a big stick, reason no1
If your floor still looks like that
If it's possibly coming in a really thin ply box, then I'd use that for protecting the floor and your white saw likely with good paintjob for when you tip it upright,
It will be no bother making the step if you can have something of equal height to go under the machice , you may have to chok it taller to get half the machine inside,
could tip it up then, or reason no.2 just onto more choks if you wish to wheel it in still horizontally for your floors sake/paintjob of machine base.
(the swivel casters will allow for the changeover easier than fixed)
Sounds a lot more difficult than I'm making out.
I done some work on my machine base in aim to make it sit better,
so had to lift it quite a few times to test out.
Buy some cheap poundshop swivel casters and attach them to an offcut of ply.
It'll make a better dolly than then one you linked as you will be able to push the saw lengthwise instead of carrying like a dog with a big stick, reason no1
If your floor still looks like that
If it's possibly coming in a really thin ply box, then I'd use that for protecting the floor and your white saw likely with good paintjob for when you tip it upright,
It will be no bother making the step if you can have something of equal height to go under the machice , you may have to chok it taller to get half the machine inside,
could tip it up then, or reason no.2 just onto more choks if you wish to wheel it in still horizontally for your floors sake/paintjob of machine base.
(the swivel casters will allow for the changeover easier than fixed)
Sounds a lot more difficult than I'm making out.
I done some work on my machine base in aim to make it sit better,
so had to lift it quite a few times to test out.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
I would shift the pallet one corner at a time using pry bars/2x4 to lift and then walk a few centimetres until I reached a ramp I made or shift it to the threshold and pry it up, slipping a thin board or plywood in each time as you go until the same height as the floor to drag it in with the winch or nudge it with the pry bar/2x4.
Pete
Pete
Theres currently a larger Axminster trade B/S on their ebay clearance outlet. 16"
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325285347715?hash=item4bbc848183:g:Ch4AAOSwvdpi353D
They usually accept 10% off on the 'make offer' bit.
Thing is it is new, no worries, no chance of being electrocuted by for diy electrics as encouraged on here.
They'll deliver it to your door and put it anywhere you want.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325285347715?hash=item4bbc848183:g:Ch4AAOSwvdpi353D
They usually accept 10% off on the 'make offer' bit.
Thing is it is new, no worries, no chance of being electrocuted by for diy electrics as encouraged on here.
They'll deliver it to your door and put it anywhere you want.
