Buying a heavy bandsaw + 3 phase inverter/conversion

[rogxwhit]

You have a wide doorway! Good! Leave it bolted (if it is bolted, or is it strapped?) to the pallet. Use rollers (anything strong & round). 18mm board ramp - chock under to support as nec. A shallow gradient not an issue for haulage except that you need to stabilise / prevent rolling back - a helper is good, and a couple of chocks / wedges.

Keep it upright! The fun part will be getting the pallet out from under when it's in position! I suppose that you could re-purpose the ramp for this - but not the rollers - with lots of scrap wood for packings, maybe some temp screws to connect ramp to pallet ...

220Kg is manhandleable ok by one person. But think it all through first. Hasty improvisation can be dangerus.

 

[CMax]

You have a wide doorway! Good! Leave it bolted (if it is bolted, or is it strapped?) to the pallet. Use rollers (anything strong & round). 18mm board ramp - chock under to support as nec. A shallow gradient not an issue for haulage except that you need to stabilise / prevent rolling back - a helper is good, and a couple of chocks / wedges.

Keep it upright! The fun part will be getting the pallet out from under when it's in position! I suppose that you could re-purpose the ramp for this - but not the rollers - with lots of scrap wood for packings, maybe some temp screws to connect ramp to pallet ...

220Kg is manhandleable ok by one person. But think it all through first. Hasty improvisation can be dangerus.

The door is definitely wide enough but I don't think I'll have enough headroom to manoeuvre the saw in while still on the pallet. I'll have to check when it arrives; I might get lucky.

 

[CMax]

Update: I managed to get the saw into the garage without much hassle. A mate and I used a broomstick to roll it off the pallet and into the garage. A hand truck was then used to move it into position. The saw is in very good nick as far as I can tell. The only thing I'm not super happy with is that the lower bearings don't turn that well. I think they're probably gunked up with resin.

Is it worth taking these off and soaking them in something (brake fluid? thinners?), or should I just contact SCM and get a new set? They only appear to be held on with a circlip, so shouldn't be that hard to get them off, but I'm not sure how expensive new ones would be and whether it's worth trying to fix the old ones. Any thoughts?

 

[Inspector]

If you need new bearings find a local seller and bring them in. They will use the numbers on them to pick replacements or if none they will measure them and get them that way. They will be lots less expensive than going back to the manufacture for replacements. I would be amazed if they were not stock bearings.

Pete

 

[CMax]

If you need new bearings find a local seller and bring them in. They will use the numbers on them to pick replacements or if none they will measure them and get them that way. They will be lots less expensive than going back to the manufacture for replacements. I would be amazed if they were not stock bearings.

Pete

Unfortunately, I don't have a seller locally, but I can probably make out the numbers on the bearings once they're removed. I suppose it won't be hard to find them online. But that said, if I can simply clean them, I'd prefer to do that, but I don't know if that's possible with these. Apparently, they're 'sealed for life' ones.

 

[Ttrees]

Unfortunately, I don't have a seller locally, but I can probably make out the numbers on the bearings once they're removed. I suppose it won't be hard to find them online. But that said, if I can simply clean them, I'd prefer to do that, but I don't know if that's possible with these. Apparently, they're 'sealed for life' ones.

I'll bet you have a seller of bearings locally.
Two or three factories if close would likely suggest so.
Great looking condition.
Best of luck

Tom

 

[Spectric]

You might find this interesting SCM Minimax S45 Bandsaw Teardown & Overhaul

 

[Inspector]

Saskatoon is a city of just over a quarter million and we have at least 4 suppliers so I would be surprised if there isn't one within an hour of you. Any overhaul and repair businesses and as Ttrees pointed out, factories or fabrication shops would be using them.

Pete

 

[CMax]

Saskatoon is a city of just over a quarter million and we have at least 4 suppliers so I would be surprised if there isn't one within an hour of you. Any overhaul and repair businesses and as Ttrees pointed out, factories or fabrication shops would be using them.

Pete

My town is considerably smaller, and if I’m being honest, I don’t fancy driving for an hour or more just to buy some bearings. Not with the cost of diesel these days! I’ll get them off the machine (just waiting for a circlip remover) and go from there.

My main question really was whether it was worth trying to clean the old ones rather than buying new.

 

[Spectric]

My main question really was whether it was trying to clean the old ones rather than buying new.

Wash them in degreaser to remove all the lubricant and see if the tracks are smooth or pitted by spining them, for the price of bearings it is not worth cutting corners and if in doubt replace.

 

[CMax]

Wash them in degreaser to remove all the lubricant and see if the tracks are smooth or pitted by spining them, for the price of bearings it is not worth cutting corners and if in doubt replace.

Thanks mate. I've since managed to find the bearings and have ordered some new ones, but will see if I can degrease and get the current ones cleaned up and keep them as backups if they're not totally shot.

If this is of use to anyone else, the guide bearings are 6201-RS (12mm inner diameter, 10mm thick, 32mm inner diameter).

 

[Spectric]

Are you getting fully sealed ones? They used to have the ZZ designation at one point but everything changes so could be anything now.

 

[CMax]

Are you getting fully sealed ones? They used to have the ZZ designation at one point but everything changes so could be anything now.

I just went for the bog-standard ones. I didn't realise there were other types. I've just googled them and found a seller doing the ZZ metal-sealed ones. Do you think it's worth me getting those instead? I can easily cancel my other order if these are going to be a better solution.

 

[CMax]

Okay, so answering my own question here (for the aid of helping anyone searching about this), it appears that the RS designation is more dust-resistant than the ZZ designation due to a smaller gap in the seal, and thus more suitable. The various pros and cons of the different types of seals can be found here: What is the features of seal RS RZ RSW RSH ZZ series bearing?

So it looks like I'll stick with the RS bearings as currently installed. Well, that's my 'learning something new' done for the day. Time to slack off.

 

[MARK.B.]

It wont hurt to have a spare set of bearings tucked away just in case the time comes that you need them, they are cheap enough to buy and should we have another lock down fiasco then you won't be left twiddling your thumbs

 

[CMax]

It wont hurt to have a spare set of bearings tucked away just in case the time comes that you need them, they are cheap enough to buy and should we have another lock down fiasco then you won't be left twiddling your thumbs

Definitely. I've still got the new ones coming. I bought a complete set, so I'll replace the existing ones, clean them up, and retain them for emergency replacements should I need them.