Build thread- My concrete workshop. Pg4 Bench built.

[carlb40]

The eaves will need to be left open for venting. You could try attaching mesh to keep leaves/worms out etc and keep the vent.

Something similar to this
http://www.screwfix.com/p/gutter-clear- ... 10mm/88873
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Business-Offi ... +vent+mesh

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Thanks very much, that should do the job nicely.

Just bought some ply this morning, 12mm sheets for 8 quid each :-D might be slightly dogeared or painted one side but I'll give it all a lick of paint anyways.

 

[carlb40]

Cool, pre undercoated ply

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Also another thought, is there any type of fixing that I can drill through the ply straight into the concrete, put a plug in then screw without having to pilot drill the ply marking the concrete, take the ply away, drill conrete insert plug then screw through board into plug?

Can see it being a very laborious task of pilot drilling each hole then removing the ply to drill the concrete.

And how many fixing points would you do per sheet? Will be using 50-60mm 5mm wood screws into those Fischer wall plugs.

 

[MMUK]

Tapcon screws All you need is a 4mm masonary bit, just go straight through the ply.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djotP-sR4mU

 

[PAUL_TDI]

My god! They look fab, will be getting them then, thanks for the link.

Think I'll go for the 57mm screws, the ribs in the walls are 75mm so should accomodate the slightly longer length than 45mm?

All the reviews are saying 5mm pilot holes?

 

[MMUK]

4mm is best. It's too easy to strip the thread out of a 5mm hole using an impact driver

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Haha gotcha. That was a worry I had after watching the video. 4mm it is then.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

MMUK THANKYOU! Those Tapcon screws are brilliant, after finding a 4mm SDS bit at BnQ I had to use 5mm in the end anyway as the concrete started to chip when trying to drive in the screws.

But they torqued up nicely with the impact driver in 5mm holes, maybe because my walls are very dense concrete?

I ended up drilling those the wall in 1 hole as I was drilling a bit deep anyway then it hit something hard and blew out. So because of this I actually drilled through the ply, marked the wall then drill the walls without the ply as I needed to see how the wall was drilling, chipping, cracking etc.

I've done the annoying fiddly end now though and pleased with the results...

 

[carlb40]

Looks like you are getting there.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Cheers slowly but surely!

The Mrs has started work again so on my days off I'm with my son, unfortunately it's too dusty and crampt to take him out there with me, so I sit on ebay looking for more ply and tools.

First time I got out there since those pictures today and got enough insulation installed to get a 8x4 board screwed to the wall on the left hand side of those pics. What a pain in the buttocks lifting the board above the concrete fillet so it's flat on the wall the pre drilling and drilling all the holes accurately.

Annoying bit is I need to cut a board length ways to 28" so i'm left with a 20" 8' strip I won't easily use. But once I have put the top bit of the wood on I could even think about start building my work bench so I can work out where I want sockets more easily.

 

[blackrodd]

As I can't see the work area, and am only guessing, Would cutting and fixing the boards horizontal not be more economical, and use those offcuts at above and below the windows? Regards Rodders

 

[PAUL_TDI]

I did consider but there is method to my madness.

Because only some of the ribs on the wall are suitable to drill into its better running sheets long ways so they are in contact with more suitable ribs to mount too, plus I can Mark out where to drill more easily.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Few more pics from a couple of days in there. First were from a while back where I clipped the armoured cable to the bottom of the front gable end ply boards then took it behind the ply on the side to reach to the top right where the fuse box will be mounted.



Notice the fence panel brackets to strengthen the corners slightly.



And now more recently described a few posts back here's where I'm upto..



I also insulated the triangle above the concrete which is just timber and PVC. Here I attached a few batterns in the gaps to make an enclosed space I could then screw the ply too. First some 40mm sheet which fits nicely behind those cross beams.



Then some 20mm which brings it level.



Possibly should of measured twice on some of the ply cuts but I'm not too picky over the odd gap round the edge....


Now I'm thinking of doing the roof next, if I put the 40mm insulation sheets in then the air gap will basically be the space in the roof sheets where it undulates. Then I have 9mm OSB to board it up. I'm assuming any condensation will form on the roof panels which will then just run down to the gutters? Is there anything else to consider?

I'm nearing closer to actually getting my workbench built then I can get the spark in to power 'er up!

 

[carlb40]

Sounds good as you will still have airflow within the ceiling.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Awesome, will be able to get onto that next Sunday then.

Have 100 off cut sheets of 9mm OSB being delivered Monday, mainly 2.4mx0.5m so nice light strips to lift to ceiling and screw. Including the cost of "Man with a Van" will be £37. I would of collected myself but due to there early office hours I couldn't of collected easily.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Another update...

Copious amounts of OSB now delivered as mentioned above..



My neighbour randomly knocked on the door and gave me pretty much a full 8x4 sheet of 50mm polystyrene HURRAY! I prompty used that on the ceiling...



Then back to the ecotherm for the other side..



And the front third of the ceiling is now done, could of done with someone else to help getting it square but no matter, I'll cover it up with a beam at the peak.



The OSB is a little flappy at the sides as there wasn't a third cross beam on the roof to mount too, the last 2ft is free hanging, so not sure what to do there, if anything.

There was a heavy frost the next morning and even though the workshop isn't heated yet it showed the massive difference the insulation in the roof has made.



Plan is now to paint the manky ply walls then make a start on building the workbench as I have most of the wood stored for it in the next bit of roof I need to do, problem is there's like 50 sheets of OSB on the floor now.

Any one local need some 9mm OSB lol

 

[Joe Shmoe]

Nice build diary. I'm in Essex and need OSB for my umpteen shed build. Lol.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Cheers, bit slower than others on here.

Well once I've sorted out what would I need I'd sell you the rest. I'm in Braintree by the way, seeing as essex is fairly big.

At the moment I've only used 8 offcuts and will only been about another 15-20 for the roof. Instead of hard cash I would swap for 12/18mm ply, timber or insulation board.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Currently thinking about painting where I'm up too so I can then build my workbench in situ and move in my other bench from my shed. Then I could actually get the sparky in (when funds allow), I'm waiting until the bench is built so I know where I want the sockets, possible a bit backwards way of doing it but I'm very much prefer to "see" where things need to go rather than drawings.

I want to keep costs down when painting but also don't want damp to wreck the paint in a year etc. So my thoughts were to give the ply a PVA wash and find a cheapish paint in a lightish shade of grey. But is emulsion, matt, silk best!?

Something like this....

http://www.wickes.co.uk/trade-silk-pain ... vt/214421/