gasman
Established Member
sorry for the delays in posting
I only got bits and pieces done over the weekend but significant progress made nonetheless
I flattened the sole using 80G paper on my (flattish) workbench - no gaps against a straightedge
From my friendly light engineers up the road I got them to cut me off a chunk of phosphor bronze large enough to cut out the lever cap - but this chunk weighs just about 2kg so cost me £50 - however I will have lots left over
Then I cut a cardboard template and roughly hacked this bronze lump apart with hacksaws, drills, dremel cutters etc until I had this - then like Jimi I drilled the hole for the lever cap screw and tapped it before doing any more shaping
I missed out a few steps for this next bit - the adjuster - but it was all straightforward
This is a copy of the Norris adjuster so there was still one detail to add - the ability to tighten the 40 TPI thread with a little screw
So, I drilled a 2.5mm hole though the pivot piece, tapped it to M3, countersunk it, then cut a slot in the side and drilled the top half to 3mm so that it can be tightened then it was just a question of finding a countersunk M3 screw
A bit of careful measuring up etc and, again comparing the Norris I have... I drilled a 3/4" hole for the pivot piece to sit in
I did think about cutting out the rest of the adjuster recess on the mill once again but it was quicker and quite easy easy to do it with Forstner bits, chisels etc until I had this
The adjuster fitted quite well
Then I drilled a 7mm hole in the base of the hole where the pivot piece sits for the locating brass tube to sit in, but actually it was easier to enlarge this to 7.5mm and then epoxy the tube in so that it sat at the right angle
This whole thing had been something I had been concerned about but actually it was all quite straightforward and Richard thank you a fantastic way to fit the adjuster
Light at end of long tunnel I think??
Cheers Mark
I only got bits and pieces done over the weekend but significant progress made nonetheless
I flattened the sole using 80G paper on my (flattish) workbench - no gaps against a straightedge
From my friendly light engineers up the road I got them to cut me off a chunk of phosphor bronze large enough to cut out the lever cap - but this chunk weighs just about 2kg so cost me £50 - however I will have lots left over
Then I cut a cardboard template and roughly hacked this bronze lump apart with hacksaws, drills, dremel cutters etc until I had this - then like Jimi I drilled the hole for the lever cap screw and tapped it before doing any more shaping
I missed out a few steps for this next bit - the adjuster - but it was all straightforward
This is a copy of the Norris adjuster so there was still one detail to add - the ability to tighten the 40 TPI thread with a little screw
So, I drilled a 2.5mm hole though the pivot piece, tapped it to M3, countersunk it, then cut a slot in the side and drilled the top half to 3mm so that it can be tightened then it was just a question of finding a countersunk M3 screw
A bit of careful measuring up etc and, again comparing the Norris I have... I drilled a 3/4" hole for the pivot piece to sit in
I did think about cutting out the rest of the adjuster recess on the mill once again but it was quicker and quite easy easy to do it with Forstner bits, chisels etc until I had this
The adjuster fitted quite well
Then I drilled a 7mm hole in the base of the hole where the pivot piece sits for the locating brass tube to sit in, but actually it was easier to enlarge this to 7.5mm and then epoxy the tube in so that it sat at the right angle
This whole thing had been something I had been concerned about but actually it was all quite straightforward and Richard thank you a fantastic way to fit the adjuster
Light at end of long tunnel I think??
Cheers Mark