xy mosian
Established Member
If you are looking to form a tapered hole in wood. What's wrong with a re-shaped flat bit?
xy
xy
bow saws and frame saws
- Thread starter condeesteso
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jimi43
Established Member
I was just about to tweek my design and that picture has just blown me out of the water!
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
That is absolutely STUNNING! WOW!
Ok...now I need to rethink this bowsaw thing....amazing...simply amazing! =D> =D>
Jim
jimi43
Established Member
Wait one blinkin' minute!!!!!
No...I don't like it...the blade's the wrong way round!!!
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Jim
No...I don't like it...the blade's the wrong way round!!!
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Jim
condeesteso
Established Member
XY - yes, good point. I have not abandoned any idea of a taper to lock the blade yet. Also Jim's point re Morse is interesting - re tool availability etc.
Pedder, that bowsaw is obviously brilliant, as far as I can see. I look closely at the blade / frame interface as that is the interesting bit. But all beautifully done.
If I may say, it looks it could be a little weighty. Wagnerian sprung to mind... you could take a wild boar out with that one??
(Sorry Pedder, I would translate that to German but it would not be pretty, or good German).
I am now really convinced I need to make at least one.
Will advise progress, but as said before, it will be slow.
Pedder, that bowsaw is obviously brilliant, as far as I can see. I look closely at the blade / frame interface as that is the interesting bit. But all beautifully done.
If I may say, it looks it could be a little weighty. Wagnerian sprung to mind... you could take a wild boar out with that one??
(Sorry Pedder, I would translate that to German but it would not be pretty, or good German).
I am now really convinced I need to make at least one.
Will advise progress, but as said before, it will be slow.
Hi Mignal,
really? I don't know. There is a good design from Friedrich, with less bling but technical superior:
The skewed (?) handle feels better than the traditional upright and he carved the handles to make them lighter.
And another design from Roger in Luxembourg, i like because the power is in a line with the teeth:
Cheers Pedder
really? I don't know. There is a good design from Friedrich, with less bling but technical superior:
The skewed (?) handle feels better than the traditional upright and he carved the handles to make them lighter.
And another design from Roger in Luxembourg, i like because the power is in a line with the teeth:
Cheers Pedder
jimi43
Established Member
Hey Pedder!......
If you chopped the top bit off the top of that last one and fitted a......um brass back....you would get a.....
Ok...it was only a thought! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Jim
If you chopped the top bit off the top of that last one and fitted a......um brass back....you would get a.....
Ok...it was only a thought! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Jim
This is the Bowsaw that I made, from lemonwood. It has the tapered pins and handles that I 'borrowed' .
It's more of a traditional 'turn saw'. I've noticed that most of the others posted in this thread have rather deep blades fitted.
I've also thought about the original handles and pins that I made. I'm fairly certain that I placed a metal washer just after the turned
wooden handle. Perhaps it was the metal on wood that wasn't providing enough friction.
It's more of a traditional 'turn saw'. I've noticed that most of the others posted in this thread have rather deep blades fitted.
I've also thought about the original handles and pins that I made. I'm fairly certain that I placed a metal washer just after the turned
wooden handle. Perhaps it was the metal on wood that wasn't providing enough friction.
Hi All,
I've been looking to get a bowsaw recently. They come up on ebay time to time. What holds me back is the blade.
When I do a search for blades all I seem to get are the Large tree cutting wide blades. Most of the bowsaws on ebay have a narrow blade in various lengths.
Are these narrow blades readily availible and at a reasonable cost??
Cheers
Andy
PS your self made saws look great.
I've been looking to get a bowsaw recently. They come up on ebay time to time. What holds me back is the blade.
When I do a search for blades all I seem to get are the Large tree cutting wide blades. Most of the bowsaws on ebay have a narrow blade in various lengths.
Are these narrow blades readily availible and at a reasonable cost??
Cheers
Andy
PS your self made saws look great.
kirkpoore1
Established Member
MIGNAL":22ca0xb6 said:
That's all I use, and I don't even bother to anneal the ends before drilling. Probably would make things a little easier, though. The good thing is that you get several bow saw blades out of one band saw blade, so if you break one or bend/kink/twist it too much, you just pop it out and put in another. They last a long time, too.
Kirk
condeesteso
Established Member
I think Jim will cast light on the use of bandsaw blades. I know it's been done, but the tooth form is quite different. i found them very hard to start and fairly hard to control, but they can be cheap. The best I have found so far are the Schmid ones (for the longer lengths) - a 10mm wide 600mm long at 9.50 euro for example. Gramercy (Tools for Working Wood) do a set of 3 different 12", all very narrow, for turning, at $12.95. I use those and they are very good indeed. Otherwise I'm sure someone knows a source of good (Japanese?, maybe Swedish?) 12" narrow blades - info please as several here want some, incl me and Jim!!
Richard T
Established Member
re bandsaw blades, I've been using DF "Ripper" blades which have hooked teeth are very good with 3hp driving them but would be a right pain in a hand saw. Impossible to start.
I use big ol' 1" wide blades but I don't know if the hooked tooth trend extends to narrower ripping blades that would be just as useless in a frame saw I should think.
I wonder if there is a good compromise of good ripping/turning/easy starting bandsaw blade ideal for this purpose ...
I use big ol' 1" wide blades but I don't know if the hooked tooth trend extends to narrower ripping blades that would be just as useless in a frame saw I should think.
I wonder if there is a good compromise of good ripping/turning/easy starting bandsaw blade ideal for this purpose ...
xy mosian
Established Member
I can see the advantages of a tapered joint between the blade holders and the legs of the frame to stop twisting of the blade. Why does it have to be in metal? Use a wooden knob with a tapered section into a tapered hole. This is relatively easy turning and gives the joint benefits of of wood on wood friction and the taper. The blade attaching part could well be glued, epoxy, into the end of the same knob. I have always thought the sighting pins on a 'standard' copying saw would be a good addition to a bow-saw of this type.
HTH xy
HTH xy
jimi43
Established Member
Evidence from a 100+ year old bowsaw (Marples Shamrock) with brass handle inserts showed that they were elongated and worn.
For this reason, I decided to use steel. Wood, even hardwood, without a metal insert would probably not be man enough...though certain hardwoods may be candidates...they will probably only last a generation :lol:
At the time, I was not aware of tapering and indeed...the old Marples one that I have has parallel pins.....had I known of the concept and used it I think the steel would bed tighter under tension...tapering could have been done easily by setting the offset of the lathe cross-slide to be of Morse taper angles.
That being said...the tension created by the turn/twine was great enough when properly set to hold the handles where they were set....
...whether wear would eventually cause this lock to deteriorate is open to question...I don't want to take the risk.
The second prototype will sport tapered steel pins with matching inserts....or another locking devise which is functional yet fast....that is WIP at the moment! :wink:
The blades I have been using on version one....
...are bandsaw off-cuts kindly given to me by Ian at Tuffsaws....(thank you so much Ian!)....and I had a large number of options to try...including thin kerf meat and fish ones of huge proportions.
In testing and comparison with Douglas' Gramercy ones, I have come to the conclusion that they are all too aggressive...including the high TPI ones...and this appears to be down to the tooth profile and geometry.
The Gramercy ones, although courser TPI...were easy to start and run....and had a completely different profile.
So...conclusion...yes you can use bandsaw blade offcuts and indeed...these might be suitable for larger, heavier framesaws...but for bowsaws and delicate work...like tenons and dovetails...I feel the correct blades are the only option. Sadly, these are few and far between and inherently more expensive.
More tests will be done on these options.
Cheers
Jimi
For this reason, I decided to use steel. Wood, even hardwood, without a metal insert would probably not be man enough...though certain hardwoods may be candidates...they will probably only last a generation :lol:
At the time, I was not aware of tapering and indeed...the old Marples one that I have has parallel pins.....had I known of the concept and used it I think the steel would bed tighter under tension...tapering could have been done easily by setting the offset of the lathe cross-slide to be of Morse taper angles.
That being said...the tension created by the turn/twine was great enough when properly set to hold the handles where they were set....
...whether wear would eventually cause this lock to deteriorate is open to question...I don't want to take the risk.
The second prototype will sport tapered steel pins with matching inserts....or another locking devise which is functional yet fast....that is WIP at the moment! :wink:
The blades I have been using on version one....
...are bandsaw off-cuts kindly given to me by Ian at Tuffsaws....(thank you so much Ian!)....and I had a large number of options to try...including thin kerf meat and fish ones of huge proportions.
In testing and comparison with Douglas' Gramercy ones, I have come to the conclusion that they are all too aggressive...including the high TPI ones...and this appears to be down to the tooth profile and geometry.
The Gramercy ones, although courser TPI...were easy to start and run....and had a completely different profile.
So...conclusion...yes you can use bandsaw blade offcuts and indeed...these might be suitable for larger, heavier framesaws...but for bowsaws and delicate work...like tenons and dovetails...I feel the correct blades are the only option. Sadly, these are few and far between and inherently more expensive.
More tests will be done on these options.
Cheers
Jimi
jimi43
Established Member
Pete Maddex":h3bpl4ef said:
Indeed it may. :idea: =D>
Jim
Philipp
Established Member
Pete Maddex":3dsi1xlf said:
It is! And don't forget the saw vise
.I have 2 of the original blades left. These are old and I assume they were specifically made for this type of saw. I have resharpened each of them twice - actually more like a quick 'touch up'. It can be done in less than 5 minutes, so don't throw away those old blunt turn saw blades!
I wonder how many of those NOS blades are left. Someone, somewhere must have a box full of them.
I wonder how many of those NOS blades are left. Someone, somewhere must have a box full of them.
