Bookcase plinth/trim

[Juz]

Hi Folks,

I've been asked to make a bookcase with a plinth-style bottom protruding a couple of centimeters from the main bookcase body, with a rounded top. I've been wondering what the best way to produce this effect would be, I can think of two options:

1. Make the box (ie. the main part of the bookcase) with a flush bottom, and create the plinth separately with a recess for the box to sit on/in. I suspect this is the more traditional way, but seems trickier as it calls for more precision when sizing the plinth.
2. Make the box with the sides protruding below the bottom shelf by the height of the 'plinth', and then attach some trim, covering the gap below the bottom shelf. I'm leaning towards this way as I think it makes the box construction more straightforward (I can use a housing or sliding dovetail for the bottom shelf), but I can see that I might have to be careful with the trim on the sides of the piece, as the grain on the box sides will be running vertically, and the side trim pieces' grain will be running horizontally.

Does anyone have any advice on which is the better method?

Hopefully it's clear enough what I'm going on about, but if not I can probably come up with some sketches.

Thanks!

 

[MMUK]

I'd make a normal bookcase and then make a separate plinth for the bookcase to sit on top of with a couple of locating dowels.

 

[AndyT]

I've made a bookcase and a wardrobe and used method 2 for both. It's simple and robust.
I didn't have any worries about fixing across grain as I was using veneered boards for the sides of the pieces, which both stand in alcoves. I just glued the trim on, and probably screwed it from the inside, but I can't remember exactly and don't really want to empty everything to find out!

If you think expansion and contraction of the sides might be a problem then I suggest you fix the front trim firmly, glue and pin the front mitre joints and fix the side pieces by screws through from the inside, with oversized/slotted holes. There's no need to use glue on such a small out of the way piece.

 

[Tierney]

I've used option 2, and would use again. You could attach the plinth side pieces using a screw in a slotted hole at the back to allow for movement.

DT

 

[Mr T]

Hi
Another option would be to make the box part then form a rebate round the bottom,say 8-10mm. The plinth would then fit to the rebate. Fix the plinth at the front to allow for expansion at the back. The advantage of this is that inaccuracies in fitting the plinth are less evident.

Chris

 

[John15]

Hi Juz,
Thanks for your plinth post and members replies. I have just today collected an order of American Cherry from Northampton for a bookcase. The plinth detail has been worrying me but now I've got the answer.
Cheers,
John

 

[custard]

I can use a housing or sliding dovetail for the bottom shelf

Hello Juz, if you can install a shelf using sliding dovetails you shouldn't have any problems fitting a traditional separate plinth to a bookcase. The trick is to make the cabinet first then make the plinth to fit, if you've done the cabinet work reasonably accurately it's really not that hard.

 

[Juz]

Thanks for all the input folks, still not quite decided what I'm going to go for, but at least I've got a few second opinions now