Bobbin sander

[SteveF]

hi Mike

do u have details on the fence please ?

Steve

 

[Waka]

Thanks for the info on the Delta sleeves guys, I'll have a trawl around.

I have thought of another way to go, rather than buy a new machine I thought of getting the spindle bit and rubber inserts from a well known machine like a Jet and modifying it to fit the delta, that way I'll have a UK supply of sleeves.
It should only be a matter of turning up the Delta thread from the spindle of the Jet machine.
I have to say the Delta is such a quite machine, therefore I'd be reluctant to part with it.

Can anyone see any pitfalls?

 

[Mike Wingate]

The fence is made from 4 hpieces of Baltic birch ply. The vertical fence is laminated for thickness and sandwiches the blue t track. Two hand wheel/knobs lock the fence onto the 2 t tracks on the table, they ride in slots to give an angled fence. The two stops on the vertical fence run in the fence t track and do come in useful.

 

[SteveW1000]

I've also got a Delta don't think that the spindle unscrews its more a case of exchanging the rubber sleeve to a different size. I don't use the smaller sizes much and got Carroll to drill two of their spindle moulder drums to fit, 2" and 3" which allow me to use strips of abrasive paper rather than sleeves. Don't know if they will still do this I had to wait for them to reset the machines at the end of a production run.

Steve

 

[Waka]

I've also got a Delta don't think that the spindle unscrews its more a case of exchanging the rubber sleeve to a different size. I don't use the smaller sizes much and got Carroll to drill two of their spindle moulder drums to fit, 2" and 3" which allow me to use strips of abrasive paper rather than sleeves. Don't know if they will still do this I had to wait for them to reset the machines at the end of a production run.

Steve

Steve

Mine has an extended bolt that goes down through the rubber and screws into the machine, thats the bit I was going to retrofit to the Jet rubbers. Its got to be worth a try, or it's forking out cica £350.00 to get a comparable machine. A New Year project I think.

 

[SteveF]

The fence is made from 4 hpieces of Baltic birch ply. The vertical fence is laminated for thickness and sandwiches the blue t track. Two hand wheel/knobs lock the fence onto the 2 t tracks on the table, they ride in slots to give an angled fence. The two stops on the vertical fence run in the fence t track and do come in useful.

I think that makes sense now

the fence is L shaped yes ?

sorry to keep jumping on this thread , but i really like the design and have an need for it soon

Steve

 

[Mike Wingate]

L shaped fence. Note circular cut-out to clear central column. Hardware is from Rutlands, works well.

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[Mike Wingate]

Fence stops are adjustable and removable.

 

[Noggsy]

I eventually bought the Jet bobbin sander and I'm extremely happy with it. It's quiet (much quieter than the extractor), runs true, the extraction is superb and I can see me using it all the time.

 

[whiskywill]

I even trust it enough to have used it to thickness down the headstock on a finished guitar.

I'd be interested to know how you held the guitar to ensure it stayed at the correct angle. Was it before you had cut out the head profile?
I have just finished an Irish Bouzouki and, stupidly, trial fitted the machine heads upside down. So the plan is to thin down the headstock and fit a back veneer to cover the screw holes.

 

[custard]

I've got a Dakota/Triton/Sceppach bobbin sander. It's okay for smaller and lighter stuff but the table is pretty small. For bigger jobs I use a bobbin sander in a spindle moulder, that gives a much bigger table but it also gives speeds that are a bit too high for delicate material removal. I frequently make router/spindle templates for chair/table legs and curved furniture components, and a good big bobbin sander would be high on my shopping list.

I'd stay well away from drill press bobbin sanders unless it's for very light use only. The bearings on a drill press aren't designed for lateral forces and given that most economy drill presses have run out problems to begin with you're just going to get progressively less and less accuracy in your drilling.

 

[Green]

I even trust it enough to have used it to thickness down the headstock on a finished guitar.

I'd be interested to know how you held the guitar to ensure it stayed at the correct angle. Was it before you had cut out the head profile?
I have just finished an Irish Bouzouki and, stupidly, trial fitted the machine heads upside down. So the plan is to thin down the headstock and fit a back veneer to cover the screw holes.

Yep it was pretty much at the finish sanded stage. I had to thin down the back of the head as the front had a thick veneer that I hadn't accounted for.

I just held it upside down against a temporary fence and fed it against the direction of cut. Any up and down movement wouldn't matter until I reached the volute so I just let it ride on the table and made sure it was hard against the fence. The hardest bit was having to do all this on the floor as it is a neck through bass an was bumping against the ceiling of the garage. Measure twice and all that...

 

[whiskywill]

Yep it was pretty much at the finish sanded stage. I had to thin down the back of the head as the front had a thick veneer that I hadn't accounted for.

I just held it upside down against a temporary fence and fed it against the direction of cut. Any up and down movement wouldn't matter until I reached the volute so I just let it ride on the table and made sure it was hard against the fence. The hardest bit was having to do all this on the floor as it is a neck through bass an was bumping against the ceiling of the garage. Measure twice and all that...

I think I understand. Mine will be a bit more difficult as I want a radius at the top of the volute so will have to feed it in horizontally. I can see a jig making session coming.