Black filler.

[MikeG.]

If you have Cascamite, try mixing a few drops of stain in with the powder before the water.

I use Light Fast Spirit stains, despite seemingly incompatible, the volatiles evaporate rapidly and don't appear to affect the final bond significantly.

Thanks Chas, I'll give that a try too.

 

[whiskywill]

If its small amounts to fill you could try super glue.....on accelerator!

Ive not personally tryed tinting it, but would try adding a little Chinese black ink.

Or just use black superglue. https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/wiko-sup ... D_BwE&&r=1

 

[Robbo3]

Wood turners now have a choice of black superglue, rather than clear superglue & shavings, to fill cracks.

 

[oakmitre]

If you want to experinent with carbon black / graphite powder send me a PM I'll send some over

 

[MikeG.]

Very kind of you, oakmitre, but with cheap commercial black colourants readily available I'm going to stick with those.

 

[Sam R]

Mike G - give Finney's wood finishes in Chesterfield a call. Mark will be able to give you the right advice. He has a range of non-contracting filler that is designed as a grain filler.

https://www.finneyswoodfinishes.co.uk/

 

[ED65]

Late to the thread Mike but wouldn't a filler that goes into nooks and crannies by itself, and self-levels, be better for this application?

Milliput is good stuff for certain things but it's known for being a right pain to mix cleanly – you're going to want to use gloves, and you won't like how much of it sticks to them – and it's actually painful to mix in cold conditions it's so stiff, unless you get stuff that's exceptionally fresh.

 

[MikeG.]

Yeah, I heading in that direction, I think. This means epoxy and colourant.

 

[ColeyS1]

I used some black stuff that came out of a silicone tube and was very impressed. It's used as caulking between boat decking boards. It goes as hard as an eraser- so still a bit flexible. Once hardened you can plane or sand it as normal. I could try and find the tube if you were interested?

Earlier I watched a video where they filled the deepest of cracks with wooden offcuts just so they didn't need to use as much resin.

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[MikeG.]

I was planning to use PU glue in the bottom of the middle sized cracks, to seal things up before the epoxy goes in, and maybe even some expanding foam in the larger cracks, carefully controlled with a foam gun. Or, I could just stuff newspaper in.

I think the filler is going to need to set properly hard as it's a table top. It could mess up the finish if there is any flex.

 

[MikeG.]

Does anyone know about planing epoxy? I mean with a machine, not a hand plane. Does this stuff up either the epoxy or the blade? What if there is brass in the epoxy?

 

[Rich C]

I'd echo the Milliput viewpoint - it's the texture of plasticine which can be awkward if you need it to flow. It's also a dark grey rather than a true black.

I have some of this: https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/res ... gment.html
It mixed with clear epoxy to give a hard glossy jet black.

Re: planing, I can't see any reason it would be an issue for the epoxy, but it might be an issue for the machine. That said, it tends to powder and flake rather than gum in my experience. Brass should be no problem for a steel cutter I'd think.

 

[MikeG.]

I've tried the Milliput, and it's OK (there's a photo in the Bog Oak Coffee Table thread). However, I doubt it is the answer for the large cracks I've got to deal with, so I've ordered some epoxy, and some additives (black, and brass powder). I'll experiment.

 

[NickM]

I used some black stuff that came out of a silicone tube and was very impressed. It's used as caulking between boat decking boards. It goes as hard as an eraser- so still a bit flexible. Once hardened you can plane or sand it as normal. I could try and find the tube if you were interested?
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This sounds a bit like sikaflex (also goes by other names)? I've used it as an adhesive for some of the car bodging (aka as building a kit car) that I've done. As you say, it stays rubbery so would not be sandable. Also, if you get it anywhere it's not supposed to be you will not get it off...

 

[ColeyS1]

That name does ring a bell although I was able to work it with sandpaper afterwards.

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[ManowarDave]

Hi Mike,

Sorry, a bit late to the party.

We use this product at work for potting electronics. Sets to a jet black gloss. Can be machined and sanded easily although the surface greys but can be bought back to black by coating in a clear compound/polish of your choice.

I've used it for all sorts including filling and glue ups.

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/potting-compounds/1991402/

Dave

 

[MikeG.]

Thanks Dave. I've seen an electrician use that stuff for a buried junction box for garden wall lights.