Big gap under internal doors

[eribaMotters]

I'd look at two solutions already mentioned. On a couple of doors fit an Oak strip set back from door face by 3 or 4mm both sides and apply finish same as the door. Let the client live with this for a few weeks. Id expect they would be perfectly happy with this.
If not then plan B, drop the door and re-hang, remove top architrave, cut back mitres on side architraves, re-cut lock in and pack the head out. Packing out instead of removing the door case is not a bodge. In old properties I've seen this method used to make good a door sitting at an angle due to property movement.

Colin

 

[Matty]

you can add a strip under the door and route a 2x2 or 3x3mm quirk/shadow gap to make it part of the design. I had to cut down both doors on a bifold door as the door frame was 662mm. cut the edging off at 10mm, cut doors down to size then routed a 2x2mm quirk on the door edge and stuck the edging back on and it looks as if it was meant to be like that. If I'd stuck the lipping straight on it would look awful.

 

[Matty]

you can add a strip under the door and route a 2x2 or 3x3mm quirk/shadow gap to make it part of the design. I had to cut down both doors on a bifold door as the door frame was 662mm. cut the edging off at 10mm, cut doors down to size then routed a 2x2mm quirk on the door edge and stuck the edging back on and it looks as if it was meant to be like that. If I'd stuck the lipping straight on it would look awful.View attachment 152877

why didn't you machine the quirk in the solid edge then it would have looked better as you wouldn't have seen the chipboard core?

 

[Matty]

why didn't you machine the quirk in the solid edge then it would have looked better as you wouldn't have seen the chipboard core?

thanks captain hindsight!

 

[LancsRick]

I like the ideas of recessing strips at the bottom (I've always done them flush, never thought about just using them to fill the gap when closed) and using a vee cut to blend any lopping strips. Stealing those ideas!

Frames could be a nightmare, you could muck up plaster and decorating finish. I use frame fixings and adhesive on mine (thermolite walls) so frame adjustments would be a major undertaking and need a new frame after too!

 

[Doug71]

Well it's good news, they are happy with the look of a strip under the door with a small rebate in to form a shadow gap at the joint

Thank you for all the advice and ideas, much appreciated, the shadow gap thing swung it and has certainly made the job a lot quicker, easier and cheaper for everyone involved

 

[Matty]

Well it's good news, they are happy with the look of a strip under the door with a small rebate in to form a shadow gap at the joint

Thank you for all the advice and ideas, much appreciated, the shadow gap thing swung it and has certainly made the job a lot quicker, easier and cheaper for everyone involved

 

[MikeJhn]

I know it's an older thread, but what has struck me is, if you have to go back to a job for client amendment's what is the problem, hating doing things twice is irrelevant if the client is paying, also the perception of others that you have made a mistake is laughable, you should be more confident in your own work.

 

[david.tamlaght]

Old thread i know and glad the client was happy with what OP did .A shadow joint can sort many things and much better finished look than trying to bluff in a straight add on piece.
One wee thing though that comes to mind with what is obviously a new build.
Most new houses now will have some form of extraction ventilation,wether its PIV or full heat recovery and the companies that supply and install these systems recommend a min 10mm air gap at door /floor opening to maintain adequate air flow to enable the systems to operate properly.
Unsightly i know and a case of every trade looking after their own without thinking of the overall cosmetic appeal but its still a point worth consideration if indeed the dwelling in question had such a system installed

 

[Doug71]

Old thread i know and glad the client was happy with what OP did .A shadow joint can sort many things and much better finished look than trying to bluff in a straight add on piece.
One wee thing though that comes to mind with what is obviously a new build.
Most new houses now will have some form of extraction ventilation,wether its PIV or full heat recovery and the companies that supply and install these systems recommend a min 10mm air gap at door /floor opening to maintain adequate air flow to enable the systems to operate properly.
Unsightly i know and a case of every trade looking after their own without thinking of the overall cosmetic appeal but its still a point worth consideration if indeed the dwelling in question had such a system installed

This was discussed at the time and I was assured that the doors didn't need a 10mm gap under them as is sometimes the case

 

[KAH28]

Well it's good news, they are happy with the look of a strip under the door with a small rebate in to form a shadow gap at the joint

Thank you for all the advice and ideas, much appreciated, the shadow gap thing swung it and has certainly made the job a lot quicker, easier and cheaper for everyone involved

Would it be possible to see a picture please Doug so I can visualise what you have done and see how it looks. . I have the same issue with a few of my doors in my new build house. Again it is more about the light coming under the gap.

 

[Doug71]

@KAH28 this is the only picture I could find, hope it helps

 

[TomGW]

@KAH28 this is the only picture I could find, hope it helps


View attachment 173717

An excellent solution.
I had to shorten 5 doors for my SIL after she got a new thick pile carpet and good underlay fitted in her bedroom, which has two, double door, built in wardrobes. Each door was a brutal weight and needed carrying down stairs and outside to have about 15mm removed with my tracksaw. For an awful moment I thought that I'd cut the top, instead of the bottom, off the last one. It's amazing how fast the potential solutions run through your mind in a few seconds.

 

[KAH28]

An excellent solution.
I had to shorten 5 doors for my SIL after she got a new thick pile carpet and good underlay fitted in her bedroom, which has two, double door, built in wardrobes. Each door was a brutal weight and needed carrying down stairs and outside to have about 15mm removed with my tracksaw. For an awful moment I thought that I'd cut the top, instead of the bottom, off the last one. It's amazing how fast the potential solutions run through your mind in a few seconds.

Thanks Doug,

They look great and the photo has really helped.

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

Could you not just add 18mm mdf to the tops of the lining and leave the architrave's alone, set it back 6mm from either side to create a check, paint it all in, most people wouldn't have a clue.
Do one first without the customer knowing the fix, see if they can tell? you could open a can of worms moving all the heads...


OH FFS this was in 2023 lol