to be honest with you it made me thinking. I don't mind spending some time on plane tuning it up as I did with my stanley's. Till present I was avoiding wooden planes (for unexplainable reasons) but it made me thinking I might go for it. I don't also mind spending money on tools as I like to work with decent ones (makes sense as you just enjoy it and actually make things faster) but I am not arguing...
Bevel up and Low Angle planes
- Thread starter Armagedon
- Start date
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jimi43
Established Member
Not a good analogy...Cornish Pasties are the ONLY Pasties or Tattie Oggie if you are in the Navy...
All other pasties or patties (if you are American) are not a Golf!
:wink: (Lord...I'm watching much too much TV!)
:lol:
That Qiangsheng low angle jack is um...nice!!! I shall be turning Chianeeese...even if I say so!
How much are they going to be? Matthew??? 8)
Jim
GazPal
Established Member
Considering the picture of Quiangsheng's offering, you could always just pick up an old Paramo Planemaster plane and convert it over to low angle use after a few inspired adjustments and an added infill. :wink:
I can sense a sudden Evil-Bay purchase and modification project coming on. :lol:
I can sense a sudden Evil-Bay purchase and modification project coming on. :lol:
+1 for Mujingfang. I sharpened the blade on mine - but I wouldn't call that fettling.
Rob Lee posted some nice pics on an Australian forum here:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/mjf-photos-promised-11226/
Rob Lee posted some nice pics on an Australian forum here:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/mjf-photos-promised-11226/
Alf
Established Member
Damn these noisy and dirty factories in Asia, belting out pollution... :lol:
Have to say I didn't have to do anything but sharpen the blades on the Mujingfang plane and spokeshave I got a few years ago either. Cool little plane, the HK-stylee. They have an enormous range on their website. Last time I looked, some of the Craftsman Collection series were a bit unusual, mind you.
Have to say I didn't have to do anything but sharpen the blades on the Mujingfang plane and spokeshave I got a few years ago either. Cool little plane, the HK-stylee. They have an enormous range on their website. Last time I looked, some of the Craftsman Collection series were a bit unusual, mind you.
Argus
Established Member
.
You can't say that they ain't craftsman-made, judging by their hi-tech plant.
But, I'm being unkind; I've been singing their praises for ages.
Rob Lee does sell them on his Veritas site.
As for fettling, it was nothing more than I would have expected with a wooden plane.
The blades, I found haves a lovely bit of steel in it, and as Alf said, just needed squaring off and the backs flattening. On mine I had to remove some of the grinding marks on the backs - but nothing serious or time consuming.
It’s tempting to put the cross bars to one side, as I did, but I did come around to using them eventually – after all umpteen billion Chinese can’t be wrong. The bars and the holes are a bit rough and need bedding in if you do decide to use them. They come in handy on the pull-stroke if you use them that way.
Additionally I did need to give them all a good bathe in white spirit to remove some of the body-enhancing but annoying reddish dye that I found came off on the work. I also let them sit in my work shop for a little while before giving the bases a final wipe on a flat surface with some fine abrasive. I must confess that I needed to buy some of that stuff in as I never use abrasives – one more reason for using these little beasts as they can leave an exceptional finish straight from the blade – and No dust.
One last point; I found that relieving the soles with a few strokes of a scraper blade between the toe and the mouth and from behind the mouth to the heel, Japanese style, enhanced the cut on the biggest one.
Great planes – for twenty odd quid you can’t go wrong.
But, bringing it all back on topic, the OP wanted something to deal with wild grain and I reckon that these will do that and more.
.
You can't say that they ain't craftsman-made, judging by their hi-tech plant.
But, I'm being unkind; I've been singing their praises for ages.
Rob Lee does sell them on his Veritas site.
As for fettling, it was nothing more than I would have expected with a wooden plane.
The blades, I found haves a lovely bit of steel in it, and as Alf said, just needed squaring off and the backs flattening. On mine I had to remove some of the grinding marks on the backs - but nothing serious or time consuming.
It’s tempting to put the cross bars to one side, as I did, but I did come around to using them eventually – after all umpteen billion Chinese can’t be wrong. The bars and the holes are a bit rough and need bedding in if you do decide to use them. They come in handy on the pull-stroke if you use them that way.
Additionally I did need to give them all a good bathe in white spirit to remove some of the body-enhancing but annoying reddish dye that I found came off on the work. I also let them sit in my work shop for a little while before giving the bases a final wipe on a flat surface with some fine abrasive. I must confess that I needed to buy some of that stuff in as I never use abrasives – one more reason for using these little beasts as they can leave an exceptional finish straight from the blade – and No dust.
One last point; I found that relieving the soles with a few strokes of a scraper blade between the toe and the mouth and from behind the mouth to the heel, Japanese style, enhanced the cut on the biggest one.
Great planes – for twenty odd quid you can’t go wrong.
But, bringing it all back on topic, the OP wanted something to deal with wild grain and I reckon that these will do that and more.
.
Alf
Established Member
Absolutely. As would a high angle on a bevel up plane, a high pitch on a bevel down, a scraper plane, a belt sander, a... Many cats, many ways to skin them. That's the fun, isn't it? Unless you're one of these "project completion" folks, in which case take no notice of me at all. :lol:Argus":2st734a7 said:
Argus
Established Member
Alf":lp8pn6re said:
Yeah, .........but look at the cost ........... we can't all afford that great arsenal of kit :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: keep it simple :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
.
well when it becomes a passion and hobby, method of finding some peace and 'quiet', some kind of relax (choose appropriate version) it's just a matter of time. And don't tell me you will reach the point you can say I got all I need... I am not naive I know every penny freed from home budget will go towards my belove tools :lol:Argus":3fbb8v3r said:
Alf
Established Member
Argus":3fq8mdcv said:
Okay, I was exaggerating a bit.
I wouldn't bother with the belt sander... :wink:
matthewwh
Established Member
jimi43":3emluluw said:
Dunno yet but if they are anything like the others they will be a snip!
+1 for Mujingfang, very useful bits of kit.
You also have the option of honing a back bevel on a spare iron for a bevel down plane.
I just ordered smallest one from Rutlands (Hong Kong style) for tests. I will see myself how much they are worth. If I am happy to wok with it I will get few of them plus maybe Taiwanese style as well (I never have enough planes...) :wink:
Aled Dafis
Established Member
As Matthew mentioned above, a small backbevel will be the easiest method for you to achieve a tearout free finish straight from your plane.
With Matthew being the modest type :wink: , I'll post a link to his video of applying a backbevel to an iron, and taming the "wood from ****". I had a go at this chunk of wood a while ago, and found it very hard going with my little infill, so the full length shavings he produces in the video are very impressive indeed!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwDTH1ggAzM
Cheers
Aled
With Matthew being the modest type :wink: , I'll post a link to his video of applying a backbevel to an iron, and taming the "wood from ****". I had a go at this chunk of wood a while ago, and found it very hard going with my little infill, so the full length shavings he produces in the video are very impressive indeed!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwDTH1ggAzM
Cheers
Aled
woodbloke
Established Member
I have the offending piece of "wood from ****" that Matthew 'tamed'...it's now half the thickness! It is doable with either LA plane or BU plane with a back bevel, but it's very hard going as Aled says.Aled Dafis":1v3nb4tw said:
As an aside, the lucky (or unlucky individual as the case may be) will have a chunk of the stuff built into his SS presi :wink: :lol: - Rob
I got myself first one (the smallest one from rutlands) just to try it and if I wouldn't like it 20 quid is not a disaster...
But I love it... It's a wee rocket plane. Took me about an hour to get iron to desirable stage of sharpness and smoothness but oh boy what a joy!! it just glides through end grain or knots or any difficult wavy fibres. Am gonna get few more but this time evil bay rules :wink:
But I love it... It's a wee rocket plane. Took me about an hour to get iron to desirable stage of sharpness and smoothness but oh boy what a joy!! it just glides through end grain or knots or any difficult wavy fibres. Am gonna get few more but this time evil bay rules :wink:
Argus
Established Member
Armagedon":24fxkif3 said:
Glad you like it. It provides a corker of a finish.
Bedding the sole Japanese-style makes an additional improvement, in my opinion, and takes just a few minutes.
.
Argus
Established Member
.
OK. Japanese-style.
These planes can work - as can any plane - in either direction, push (westen style) or pull (oriental style), that's what the little cross bar is for.
I'm not a big fan of Japanese tools, but their method for flatting a wooden sole are as follows and it does make a difference.
Withdraw the iron above the sole and tap the wedge back in. Make sure that the sole is flat in the first instance by using increasingly fine abrasive sheets on a flat surface.
High spots can be dealt with using a scraper blade.
With a pencil, mark about 1/4" back from the toe, the same distance back from the heel and 1/4" either side of the mouth. This will give you two zones on the sole.
Take a flat, straight and sharp scraper blade and carefully relieve a few even and full strokes between each of the pencil marks so that the bed is in contact with the work at the toe, mouth and heel simulatneously. Leave the bits at the toe, heel and mouth untouched. Only take a few even shavings. It provides a positive contact where it's needed and reduces friction.
You only remove a fraction of the sole, so that if you don't like it, you may re-flatten the sole later.
Hope this helps.
.
OK. Japanese-style.
These planes can work - as can any plane - in either direction, push (westen style) or pull (oriental style), that's what the little cross bar is for.
I'm not a big fan of Japanese tools, but their method for flatting a wooden sole are as follows and it does make a difference.
Withdraw the iron above the sole and tap the wedge back in. Make sure that the sole is flat in the first instance by using increasingly fine abrasive sheets on a flat surface.
High spots can be dealt with using a scraper blade.
With a pencil, mark about 1/4" back from the toe, the same distance back from the heel and 1/4" either side of the mouth. This will give you two zones on the sole.
Take a flat, straight and sharp scraper blade and carefully relieve a few even and full strokes between each of the pencil marks so that the bed is in contact with the work at the toe, mouth and heel simulatneously. Leave the bits at the toe, heel and mouth untouched. Only take a few even shavings. It provides a positive contact where it's needed and reduces friction.
You only remove a fraction of the sole, so that if you don't like it, you may re-flatten the sole later.
Hope this helps.
.
