Best way cleaning removing rust from vintage carving gouges and chisels?

[kinverkid]

Does it mean that vinegar socking wouldn't be really effective in getting at the pitting?

All the above soakings will work at helping to remove rust on the surfaces including the surface at the bottom of the 'pits'. I think what Trafalgar (sorry for budging in here) means is you will need to make sure there is not a pit on a cutting edge. You will have a 'dink' similar to a chip in the blade. This would mean, depending on the amount of pitting is that you may need to either sand away until all the pitting has been removed as --Tom-- shows in his excellent restoration of two mortice chisels (hard in many cases) or when you sharpen the blade, make sure there is no pit on the blade edge (easier in most cases but may not be suitable for us OCD's).

 

[diytoolbox]

Great info and advice. Thanks.

WD40 seems to be able to clean rust OK when soaked and wiped the rusty tools in it. But as you said, it gets dried off soon after, which leaves the tools unprotected from rusting again.

But the tools cleaned with WD40 look far better than before, although not perfect - it took off rust. And WD40 is cheap and we have plenty of them here, hence it will be used, along with 3 in 1 oil and even the old motor oil for long term tool storage.

 

[recipio]

3M make a rust stripper wheel but also a paint and varnish stripper wheel which is a bit softer. Run it at fast speed in a lathe or drill press and it takes rust off in seconds. Eye protection needed of course.

 

[--Tom--]

Some examples of pitting and the need to remove them to form an edge in my recent thread here

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/refurbing-chisels.149070/

Once the metals gone it’s gone, so need to remove the surrounding metal to bring everything down to the level of the pit. It’s only needed for the surfaces that form the cutting edge though.

Once a pit has started it often acts as an acceleration point for further corrosion- so best rid of where you can and soaked in oil where you can’t.

 

[diytoolbox]

Some examples of pitting and the need to remove them to form an edge in my recent thread here

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/refurbing-chisels.149070/

Once the metals gone it’s gone, so need to remove the surrounding metal to bring everything down to the level of the pit. It’s only needed for the surfaces that form the cutting edge though.

Once a pit has started it often acts as an acceleration point for further corrosion- so best rid of where you can and soaked in oil where you can’t.

Great refurb superb result. Thank you for your info and advice.