Best way cleaning removing rust from vintage carving gouges and chisels?

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diytoolbox

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Hi All

Just wondering what would be the best and easy simple way removing rust from the old / vintage wood carving gouge sets.

I was looking at some rust removing chemicals on Amazon and eBay, but they seem too expensive. And I am not sure if they would be working as they claim to.

Years ago, I used to use white vinegar for removing rust from old wood planes, but it didn't work very well.
I am wondering if there is better way to clean the old rusting gouges.

Or perhaps I was not using white vinegar properly in cleaning the rust in the past. What steps should I take in using white vinegar for removing rust?

Actually I am not sure on the exact details of methods on how long the rusted tools must be submerged in vinegar, and what has to be after tools are taken out vinegar.

Thank you
 
Probably the best rust remover is electrolysis, very easy to do, and you can’t ’over do’ it. An old mobile telephone / pc charger is all you need and a bit of wire.
 
Does it involve scrubbing rust off the tools after soaking?
Very little (if any). I usually just wash parts off and dry them (which you do need to do to prevent flash rusting).

An old toothbrush, or (if you really need) some fine wire wool, makes short work of cleaning parts after soaking.
 
I regularly use the white vinegar method but I add baking powder. Some people add salt but I've not found it necessary. A citric acid bath works great too. Electrolysis is another favourite as mentioned above but will work better if you add a tablespoon of Soda Crystals. I use an old car battery charger on slow charge but the other chargers mentioned will also work. But, in this instance, I think Jacob's method is probably the quickest, easiest and cheapest. Chisels and gouges won't have all the hard-to-access areas as say a plane body so a rub-over with wet and dry or a wire wheel and then an oily rag should do it. For an OTT and completely unnecessary (which I often do) polished finish:- abrasive felt wheel, regular felt wheel then buffer wheel on a bench grinder, oily rag.
 
Some pictures would help.
Surfaces that form cutting edges i’d abrade back to good metal while maintaining the profile, other surfaces just wire wool and oil to get anything loose off. A bit of linseed oil on handles wouldn’t go amiss.
Then regular use will keep them good.
 
Great ideas and information and advices on the topic. Many thanks.
I quite like the idea of using the hand drill mounted with wire brush bits, going over the rusty metal part of the tools taking out the rust, then apply some oil / WD40, and linseed oil on the wooden handles.
 
How is WD40 for cleaning, removing and preventing rust from the old wood carving tools?
The liquids, whether it's WD40, water, 3 in 1 oil, mineral oil, etc. will assist in cleaning tools along with an abrasive like wet and dry, oilstone, waterstone, wire wool, etc. because they help to carry away the slurry and help to keep the abrasive 'unclogged'. I wouldn't recommend Water Displacement liquid like WD40 (not sponsored - other products available) to be used as a 'protector' against rust as it won't stay on the surface for long. Oils like 3 in 1, car oil, mineral oil and wax pastes will help protect against rust alongside regular use of the tool. Get a lidded glass jar, a square of cotton shirt and a little of your choice of oil and use it to wipe your tools over now and again. Make a rag-in-a-can for flat-faced tools like planes and chisels (I use a coil of leather in a can - fewer catches). If using natural paste waxes, make sure you put the lid back on the jar after use. There are plenty of videos and recipes on how to make your own paste waxes online. It's easy peasy, Jap Lemon Squeezy.
 

Do you mean the engine oil for motor cars? I do have some old unused motor / engine oil in the shed. Are they not toxic? Are they safe to use for applying to hand tools? I presume the tools should be fine with the engine oil applied to them, but the tool users will hold the tools with the engine oil, and just wondering if it would be safe in doing so.
 
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You'll need to get below the pitting (rust always pits) at the cutting edge. Sandpaper on glass and sandpaper wrapped around dowels will get this work done the fastest.

Does it mean that vinegar socking wouldn't be really effective in getting at the pitting?
 
Do you mean the engine oil for motor cars? I do have some old unused motor / engine oil in the shed. Are they not toxic? Are they safe to use for applying to hand tools? I presume the tools should be fine with the engine oil applied to them, but the tool users will hold the tools with the engine oil, and just wondering if it would be safe in doing so.
It's as safe as any other 'carrier' for cleaning/restoring. As for oiling tools for storage, it only requires a light rub with your rag. One more wipe with a clean rag before using. You won't want oil to come into contact with your wood from the tool or your hands.
 

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