Best and least messy way to remove surface rust from tools

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sammy.se

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Hi

I was given three tool boxes with some rusty tools that are worth saving
They have surface rust - pic below

What’s a good way of cleaning these? Can someone recommend a product I can soak these in and then hose off?

Thanks!
 

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I don't like chemicals so I would suggest a 3M paint and varnish stripper wheel. Use it in a lathe or drill. It does a brilliant job although your workshop will soon resemble a sandstorm in the Sahara. :giggle:
 
There is proper stuff that removes the rust. It's called evapo-rust. Forget vinegar, citric acid or any other granny type idea.
£16/1ltr but 5ltr is £37.50 so is a much better deal.
1ltr
https://www.toolstation.com/evapo-r...VH7CDBx2BygAGEAQYASABEgJyqvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
5ltr
https://www.toolstation.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover/p55677


YT vid (Hand Tool Rescue) explains a bit about it and how it works.
Just to clarify, if its not obvious. I think this is either the bottom of the container he de-rusts metal in and hasn't cleaned it out in 3 years, or a solution that the wrench has sat in for 3 years, But in general use this isnt going to happen.Unless of course you are as lazy and leave it lying for years.
 
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I'm not sure there's a single 'best' method. After trying everything over the years, I've settled on one of these three:

Evaporust
Angle grinder with wire wheel
Scotchbrite (or similar) wheel on the bench grinder, followed by buffing

Evaporust seems to do least damage especially to any plating on your spanners, Scotchbrite wheel will leave it nice and shiny, but will remove any plating as well as the top surface of the steel. Wirewheel somewhere in between. For your tools, I'd definitely invest in some Evaporust.
 
Phosphoric acid is also very good, and a bit quicker than citric or vinegar. It does smell though, although probably not as much as vinegar.
Evaporust would be particularly good for what you are doing as it won't have any effect on the plating. Acid, of any kind, will tend to dull plated areas. I find it is by far the best product for delicate items, so I often use it to remove rust from steel watch and clock parts. Only disadvantage I have ever found with it is that it will remove blueing from parts. So if you use it on something with a blued finish then you have to limit the immersion time to only five minutes or so, or be prepared to re blue after you have removed the rust.
 
We're currently trying to get rust off a motorcycle engine barrel (complex structure) in a small ultrasonic cleaner and not really getting great results, even with rust-removal solution. Does anyone find that method works?
 
Thanks Everyone for the suggestions!
I must say I'm favouring whatever will be the least messy/smelly option and evaporust seems to be good.

But, these are all hand me down tools - a few useful bits and bobs, and I don't want to spend £40 on evaporust, when I could just invest that amount into tools I actually choose.... I'll have to think about that
 
We're currently trying to get rust off a motorcycle engine barrel (complex structure) in a small ultrasonic cleaner and not really getting great results, even with rust-removal solution. Does anyone find that method works?
If it's a finned one I would have it straight in the bead blaster, much easier and faster. But evaporust should do it. Try and get it degreased well first. No chemical treatment particularly likes grease or oil.
 
Can you water down evaporust, eg 1 litre of it plus 6 litters of water, and just wait longer for the result?
 
Track down this rust remover. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...enance/66065-rust-remover-concentrate-and-gel It is made in the UK.

I don't think watering down the Evaporust is a good idea but you can try. If it doesn't work you will have to do it again following the instructions and have spent twice as much money. Evaporust can be used multiple times until it stops working, so you only loose a little each time.

Pete
 
I don't mean to be offensive, but I really don't think that there is anything there, apart perhaps from the hammer, that is worth the effort of derusting. One spanner is a British 'Gordon': the rest look like Chinesium (you can see that one is already bent). The screwdrivers, twist bits, chisel, etc., are junk.
 


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