Bench Buffing Machine

[Mikegtr]

Completely new to 'Buffing'. Advice required.

a) Can you convert a bench grinder to a buffing / polishing machine? If so what to look for in the conversion?
b) Mainly to buff guitar finishes / small metal items
c) What are the types of 'mop wheel's' to use?
d ) Can the same 'mop wheels' be used on wood finishes and metal?
e) Best size of 'mop wheels' to get if converting the grinding wheels (8" diameter)?--same size?
I have done a search on books / DVD for buffing polishing --no joy.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

I'm in a similar position, for small metal parts. Just about to try these guys?
https://metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk/

 

[thikone]

This is very unclear to me too, what polishing/buffing machine should be and where to get one...

I see a lot in videos that carvers use buffing machines a lot, in fact, they mostly buff and never sharpen their tools.
Jewelers use buffing and polishing machines, but rather small ones.
Metal shops have big polishing machines like big grinders.
But for woodworking something in the middle would be better, I think...

Polishing machines sometimes have a very long axel with multiple mops/wheels stacked together on it, also with different profiles.
But I guess that was a custom build.

 

[thikone]

Was contemplating over Kirjes/Guinevere sanding system and then using that motor with two chucks also with polishing wheels.

 

[clogs]

dont waste ur money converting a bench grinder.....not enough HP.....
been there done it....and that bench ends up getting in the way......
for heavy polishing u need a stiched cotton wheel and a loose cotton wheel for the final touch.....
I struggled for years waiting for the bench grinder to speed back up after stalling it.....
in the end built this from scrap.....3hp motor.....2 new flanged bearing......
my cheapo copy of an industrial machine.....
ps it now has belt guards........

 

[Mikegtr]

Many thanks for your info.

 

[johnwalls26]

I have a Creusen grinder and a Creusen polisher> Not done much with the polisher yet, but they do run in opposite directions. Those videos are really good so I might have a go.

 

[flh801978]

I must say i've not seen many buffers working going up all i've seen (and theres a lot in sheffield..or were) go downwards as a grinder would

 

[johnwalls26]

Thanks flh, I was watching the video and edited my comment before your reply. I guess the run direction must relate to the size of item being polished. I went out and double checked my 260 watt Creusen and took an image to show the direction sticker. Interesting! I wonder what direction the current dark grey Creusens run.

 

[flh801978]

Well I’ll stand corrected obviously some do go up
But all I’ve seen go down in commercial applications
If you put a mop on a lathe spindle it will go down
The mop on a sorby proedge goes down
Most pigtails to take the mop have right hand threads so the mop tightens in use

 

[Limey Lurker]

dont waste ur money converting a bench grinder.....not enough HP.....
been there done it....and that bench ends up getting in the way......
for heavy polishing u need a stiched cotton wheel and a loose cotton wheel for the final touch.....
I struggled for years waiting for the bench grinder to speed back up after stalling it.....
in the end built this from scrap.....3hp motor.....2 new flanged bearing......
my cheapo copy of an industrial machine.....
ps it now has belt guards........
View attachment 153429

When I was young (62 years ago) I worked for a year in a metal polishers and platers' shop. The small machines were 3hp.

 

[johnwalls26]

Flh, yes it is intriguing. The pigtailed virion of my red Creusen runs down , as do most of the larger dark grey ones. The shape of the guards is the indicator. I have also checked up on the Kirjes, the idea of using their flexible shaft with bearings and dust extraction from a two speed mains drill is quite appealing. The Pro Edge strop wheel is often decried as going down, and I suppose the Tormek is simply turned around to strop or polish.

 

[Chief Sawdust Maker]

I use an Axminster Craft Buffer now been rebadged as Axminster Workshop AW150BB 150mm Polisher - 230V and cant fault it I would have brought a Trade version from them at the time but they didn't and still don't do one. Yes I know its for hobby use but it has run for hundreds and hundreds of hours and when it goes bang I will replace it like for like and I know ii'm not covered by the warranty.
One end has a loose mop wheel the other end has a green scotch bright wheel
The scotch Bright is used just to break the edge on an small product i produce the loose wheel is used to buff wax up that i have applied by cloth on a range of items i dress the polishing wheel with a wire brush on occasions
The buffer is mounted on a board and i have constructed a Perspex enclosure to the top rear and sides with an extract hook up on the rear with the extractor running it produces very little mess outside of the enclosure.
The buffer is fairly quiet but they do run a bit warm

 

[Richard_C]

Depends how much you want to spend I guess. A purpose built machine is likely the answer of you plan to use it a lot. I didn't, so a few years ago I got a 'kit of parts' from metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk, 2 pigtails/adapters, 3 different wheels, a few bars of compound. All fits on a bench grinder - the pigtail adapters are rh and lh so you can run a coarser and finer wheel at the same time, one on each end. Worked fine for what I wanted which was to restore some sets of 1960's stainless steel cutlery. I have used it a few time since, most recently to polish all the fittings from a concert bass drum. For one-off quick jobs I now use one pigtail in the chuck of my woodturning lathe running at about 2000 rpm - only because it takes a while to get the guards and wheels off the bench grinder. A sophisticated muck-catcher, made from a cardboard shoebox and a plastic box some mushrooms came in with a hole for the shop vac, keeps the lathe clean. I haven't thought of buffing wood but don't see why not, maybe "Yorkshire Grit" or Chestnut buffing compound would do it but you are supposed to start those slow. Heat build up can lead to all sorts of problems on wood and perspex. Chestnut are wood finishing specialists so maybe look there - Buffing Wheel Kit – Chestnut Products – First for Finishes There is a product video tab, useful.

The 'up' or 'down' discussion is interesting, I can see any inherent + or - of either as long as you know which it is and use it accordingly. If its a 'down' wheel rotation you need to hold the item on the lower quarter, I guess if its up you need to hold it in the upper quarter. When something slips out of your hand, as it will one day, you want it to launch away from you not towards you. The thought of pulling an embedded dinner fork out of your groin is eyewatering.

 

[baldkev]

Thanks flh, I was watching the video and edited my comment before your reply. I guess the run direction must relate to the size of item being polished. I went out and double checked my 260 watt Creusen and took an image to show the direction sticker. Interesting! I wonder what direction the current dark grey Creusens run.

Being as the chisel support is orientated like a standard bench grinder, if the buffer went downwards, itd grab like a b1tch and ruin the wheel

 

[adam_1]

I have a Creusen grinder and a Creusen polisher> Not done much with the polisher yet, but they do run in opposite directions. Those videos are really good so I might have a go.

I’ve the Creusen 8” grinder & on the lookout for the 8” polisher. Missed out on 1 recently as the seller wouldn’t package/box it. Anyone have one for sale? I was considering getting another Creusen grinder and buying the available (Creusen spindles and covers) to convert, however it works out very expensive.

 

[cowtown_eric]

Honestly this subject deserves a book of it's own. A fella ain't gonna find the secrets here in 3 or 4 sentences.

My polishing buffing kit runs from VS grinders/dental lathes,, arbours to munt on the pillar drill, and buffing/deburring wheels/brass+steel brushes/mops -cloth and felt....etc and after many years I'm still learning!

 

[Sean Hellman]

I have a dedicated mop for metal polishing, mainly sharpening. 6 inch mops smallish common type bench grinder, works well for most stuff. Put and axe or larger tool on it and can easily slow it down if I press harder. Would love a bigger grinder but dont want to use my big 8 inch grinder.
Never use the same mops for metal and wood, have different sets.
For wood I use cotton loose, no stitching.
For sharpening the wheel run up as I need to see exactly where I am placing the tool, for buffing and most other jobs I want it running down. The polishing shop is a great place to buy supplies, highly recommended.
I also made a buffer for the lathe. 3 loose mops fixed onto a bar of 20 mm threaded rod about 40cm long, works a treat.
If doing anything big you do need lots of HP or a gentle touch

 

[giantbeat]

i have many buffing machines for lacquer & metal finishing, mostly lacquer buffing for high gloss work on wood, but i also learned early on if you are doing finishes such as guitars & in my case drums (same finishes but much bigger areas on drum) a covered grinder is useless long term. i burned 2 out polishing drum shells & guitars
simple option is to buy a good quality motor that does not run too fast, but a pig tail arbor, & assemble your own buffer, my main wood finishing pedestal machine is a 1hp continuous running motor with a speed of 1400RPM - i bought it & the pigtail arbor from these guys about 9 years ago, its run every day since.

https://www.swmotorsandfans.co.uk/polishersthese people are a great source of info & materials for polishing mops & compounds, also great for technical support as to what to use on what.... i buy most of mine from there (you use separate mops & compounds for metal but you can still use the same machine).

https://moleroda.com/
my other buffers are all vintage Flextol machines, which are a big motor with huge flexible shaft, fantastic machines not really used today but great for my job, if somewhat lethal & a bit difficult to control.