Bath Panel Construction - Now Finished

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wizer

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A while back now, my father and I installed a new bath into our bathroom. It's one of those ones that has a wider part at one end for the shower. It came with a rather ugly white panel and I'd like to 'wood it up'. This is the construction I have come up with so far

bath-panel1_001.png


bath-panel2_001.png

(rear view)

Pics not yet drawn to proper dimensions, just a sketch.

Problem is that those mitres scare the cr&p out of me. Not just getting them right but having them stay right in a bathroom situation. The wood will be a mixture of Iroko and Yellow Balau.

Can anyone suggest and alternative method?
 
Tom

Not sure why you're scared of the mitres???

How do you plane to fit the upright planks to the base piece?

Cheers

Karl
 
I would have thought they would be quite easy to do on a shooting board. Then glue them with a waterproof glue and biscuits or loose tongues.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I'm worried they'll open up with all the moisture in the bathroom.

The slats will be fitted to a cleat fitted to the bottom rail. The top will have the same rail and cleat as shown at the bottom, I just haven't drawn it here. The 2nd pic above shows how I intend to do it.
 
Yes, Tom, be brave!
Build a half-decent shooting board (see your fave mag) and use a waterproof adhesive. I've done a couple of baths, but, unfortunately, have pics of none. Well, there is ours, but it's not what you are looking for.

Cheers
Steve
 
it does get very very wet and steamy in there. I'll give it a go. Tho I'm not mucking about with shooting boards. It'll be straight off the mitre saw.
 
wizer":7fn47c07 said:
Tho I'm not mucking about with shooting boards.

Why not, Tom :? They are so easy to make and give such great results. An essential piece of workshop equipment.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Tom, what are you planning to do with those vertical boards?

If they're thick enough, by all means, tongue and groove them. Otherwise, you could simply rebate them (as I have done with both the chest of drawers and blanket chest this year... :wink:). If you just but them edge-to-edge, chances are that gaps will open up over time.
 
Paul I don't agree that they are easy to make and I just don't enjoy using them. It's too much of a faff for me. I might consider buying a disc sander but shooting boards are just not for me.

Olly good point about the slats. I had intended to just have a small gap in between. Rebating seems like a plan, I'd rather not buy a T&G set. I take it you just rebated each edge by half and then overlapped each one by a small amount? Am I imagining that right?
 
wizer":1jymsduo said:
It'll be straight off the mitre saw.

Perfectly good enough for second fix joinery in my view - I have some fairly high end fit out work on some of my projects and I don't see any shooting boards on site.

Cheers, Ed
 
Yes, Tom. I did mine about 10mm wide, to be safe. I still planed the rear tongues back slightly to create a 1mm gap in between, just in case.
 
If it was to form a square then I might concede but it's 2 mitres. One internal, one external. Whilst I've had bloody nightmares with mitres in the past, it was specifically the chance that they'll open up from the moisture. I'll suck it and see.
 
Olly just to be sure, this it the sort of thing we're talking about:

bath-panel3.png


yuh?
 
wizer":1e5fsxu5 said:
Olly just to be sure, this it the sort of thing we're talking about:

bath-panel3.png


yuh?

Just imagine, if you had one of those rapid prototyping resin/laser machines connected to Sketchup it'd be done by now.
:D
Ed
 
Rebate the underside a little to fit a steel angleplate or three on the underside to hold the mitre together.
 
EdSutton":s7ufxfky said:
wizer":s7ufxfky said:
Olly just to be sure, this it the sort of thing we're talking about:

bath-panel3.png


yuh?

Just imagine, if you had one of those rapid prototyping resin/laser machines connected to Sketchup it'd be done by now.
:D
Ed

[-o<

I've been given a deadline on this from the powers that be, so it should only take me a week, or three.


Good idea Jake, will look into that.
 
As you havent got a long mitre on the upright boards could the bottom just be a buttjoint. Any movement due to moisture will not open up the joint. You could use a mortice and tenon or a biscuit if there is room or alternatively pocket screw with epoxy resin glue.

Jon
 

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