Bandsaws

[dance]

I'm contemplating getting myself a bandsaw. I have a tracksaw (the EZ smart system) and so would ideally like to use the bandsaw for areas that the track saw doesn't do as well as a table saw or simply can't do.

Some things I'd like to be able to do:
sawing veneers
sawing curves / patterns
taking wood that has been edge planed and sawing the opposite edge to produce a parallel side
dimensioning wood

With that in mind, can someone quickly tell me the difference between a mid-priced Axminster bandsaw like the AWHBS350N at £400, the Hammer N4400 at £800 (which I have my eye on) and the Startrite 401e bandsaw at £1,600?! It's so confusing.

Thanks

 

[RogerP]

The AWHBS350N is a smaller machine than the Hammer N4400 and the Startrite 401e is larger still - 200mm, 300mm, 400mm beneath top guide respectively. The Axminster is a competent but a basic machine compared with the others.

The quality of blade and how well the machine is set-up will have more impact than the make on how well the bandsaw performs.

I have the Axminster and I've found it very good for what I need and will certainly cover your list.

Bear in mind that no bandsaw produces the smooth surfaced cut of a good table saw - there’s always going to be, however minor, a degree of "ripple" blade marking.

 

[condeesteso]

May I also suggest you take a look at the RECORD POWER BS400, or the 500 (around £800 and £1000 respectively), and also maybe the Startrite 502 (around £1100).
All these are floor standing (instead of being smaller and mounted on a frame base). But the great thing is the footprint is still small - this is true of the Hammer and 401 too.
I have a 500 and have been happy with it - it will rip 8" oak fine, but I'd have to be patient to rip 12"... which is the tech capacity.
If I was looking now, I would certainly look v closely at the Hammer, but actually get your hands on one (showroom etc) and see how easy to change blade and set guides for example - it's about living with it that matters. And as Roger says, the blade makes all the difference - plenty of tips here re great blades! (Consider the M42 bi-metal from TuffSaws, and have a play with a stainless 'meat & fish' blade some time - awesome for fine kerf precision stuff, like cutting 1mm veneers).

If you get the Hammer, we need user feedback!!

(and Roger needs a rest... posting at 5.43am - crikey!!)

 

[condeesteso]

sorry to go on!! - you got me thinking, as I had been considering changing my BS500 anyway. Here's why, and why I have learned that the blade tracking adjustment, all the 4 guides, and adjustment of fence off-square are what I'd be particularly looking at.
So I'm in the workshop, bandsaw has the usual (for me) 1" rip 4tpi blade in it. I want to cut some veneer say, and I'm going to bookmatch it.So I know that the ideal blade for that is my stainless thin kerf 5/8ths blade. BUT - I'll have to back off all guides, remove the 1", fit the 5/8ths, and track it on the wheels. Then I have to get 2 different allen keys out and reset all the guides. The top side supports are hand-set, but all the rest need the allen keys. Then, once that's good I need to check alignment of fence to blade (NOT table) to ensure the back of blade runs centrally in the kerf - this really does make a big difference, especially when cutting deep, or cutting veneer thicknesses. So in my case the 17mm spanner to slack off one end of the fence bar, then get the angle to sit the blade right in its kerf. There we are - done.
And of course I'll need to change it all back later too. SO, I end up not changing it as I can't be bothered, and the 2 changes maybe take 20 - 30 mins.

The moral is, unless it is really easy and quick to change blades, you won't do it as often as you should or want to. And that defeats the object of a good bandsaw.

That's why if I end up changing mine, I'll be looking at guides and fence adjustment a great deal. If you find one with tool-less guide adjustment (I mean totally, no tools, all the guides) let me know... I'll take a close look.

Hope I haven't bored you!! - back to work now

douglas

 

[woodbloke]

Have a look at the Startrite model priced around £900 (forget the model number) I saw one of these at the Yandles show last month and it's streets ahead of the Record machines that were right next to it. The main reason is that the Startrite will properly tension a 25mm blade, solely due to the enormous tension spring. I had a look at the spring in the Record machines and they were half the size. Depth of cut is good at 280mm as well, guides are decent, extraction is good...in all, difficult to fault for the wonga. I'll be ordering mine at the Sept show - Rob

 

[stuartpaul]

Have a look at the Startrite model priced around £900 (forget the model number) I saw one of these at the Yandles show last month and it's streets ahead of the Record machines that were right next to it. The main reason is that the Startrite will properly tension a 25mm blade, solely due to the enormous tension spring. i had a look at the spring in the Record machines and they were half the size. Depth of cut is good at 280mm as well, guides are decent, extraction is good...in all, difficult to fault for the wonga. I'll be ordering mine at the Sept show - Rob

352E?

I have one and so far impressed with what I've done with it. Fully agree with your comment regarding the startrite versus the record, - hence me having the startrite.

 

[woodbloke]

352E?

I have one and so far impressed with what I've done with it. Fully agree with your comment regarding the startrite versus the record, - hence me having the startrite.

That's the bad badger...great machine - Rob

 

[RogerM]

352E?

I have one and so far impressed with what I've done with it. Fully agree with your comment regarding the startrite versus the record, - hence me having the startrite.

That's the bad badger...great machine - Rob

+1. Picked mine up for £750 after last years show. Great machine and no regrets.

 

[woodbloke]

352E?

I have one and so far impressed with what I've done with it. Fully agree with your comment regarding the startrite versus the record, - hence me having the startrite.

That's the bad badger...great machine - Rob

+1. Picked mine up for £750 after last years show. Great machine and no regrets.

I know you've been very pleased with your's Rog, as we've discussed. I was duly impressed with the machine at Yandles when the rep sliced through around 200mm of wet oak. I also like it 'cos it's got a fairly small footprint...I guess it would work even better with some decent Tuffblades - Rob

 

[OPJ]

I've had the 401e for over a year now and it's a great machine. Capable of tensioning a wide blade and cutting thin veneers from deep sections of timber. I only really bought it because it was offered to me very cheap. One thing you'll need to be aware of is that, with their larger motors and the current required to start them, the majority of these bigger bandsaws (generally speaking, over 14in) will need a 16amp supply, for which you'll have to employ an electrician to at least finish the job and complete the local authorities (unless you posses the necessary skills and qualifications).

In all honesty, I don't believe that you 'need' a saw of this size to be able to rip veneers (unless, perhaps, you're looking to do it for a couple of hours almost every day). With the range of bandsaw blades and tooth patterns that are available today (see Tuff Saws!), there's no reason you cannot achieve great things with a smaller machine that runs happily on a 13amp supply.

Before I had the Startrite, I got along fine with a £200 SIP 01486 12in saws. Which a couple of blades from Tuff Saws, I was able to deep-rip hardwoods that were 5in or 6in thick. This gives you some idea of what is achievable but, at the same time, I wouldn't recommend pushing the capacities of any bandsaw to its limits... Ideally, you'll have an idea of the maximum thickness/depth of timber you intend to cut. Take that figure and start looking at bandsaws for the next size up (ie. if you're thinking of 200mm then, looking for a machine that offers at least 250mm cutting height/under the guides - though, there is a little more to it than that, like motor output, not input...). What are the maximum width/depth capacities of your planer and thicknesser? Can you physically see yourself working safely and comfortably with boards wider than, say, 200mm? (Just to give you some ideas.)

The bigger your saw, the higher the cost of each blade you'll require for particular tasks. One disadvantage of having a large saw in a small workshop (without the space for a second, smaller bandsaw) is that you may find yourself constantly having to change the blade to suit various operations (deep-ripping vs. curve cutting, for example). This may also be worth considering in your search for your bandsaw - how easy is it to swap blades? Does the fence or fence rail needed to be removed?

Hope this helps.