Bandsaw Tyre Repair

[OPJ]

Hi guys,

I've just acquired a second-hand Startrite 401E bandsaw (I'll have some photos for you later, once I've got a hand to drag it in under the garage door :?).

Now, I was aware of this before I agreed to buy the saw, but the top tyre is damaged in these sense that a chunk of it was ripped out recently when a wide blade snapped and retracted. This means that the blade don't track properly on the wheel and fall off the front of the tyres once the saw is started.

I've spoken to Startrite and have been advised that the cost of a new wheel would be £162.50 + VAT. To them, that really is the best option. Over in Italy, the rubber is bonded to the wheel and made concentric before a camber is added. Put simply: I cannot take the tyre off and fit a new one. Plus, the cost of returning the wheel to them and having it 'serviced' (including shipping to and from Italy) would far outweigh the cost of a new wheel.

Considering what I payed for the saw [sorry, no, I won't tell you!!! ], that fee isn't unreasonable. Still, I can't afford that kind of money around at the minute and I'm wondering if there's a way to repair the tyre; at least temporarily until I can afford a new wheel...

I recently mentioned this to Ian John, who said they had a Wadkin bandsaw with the same problem at Dragon. Some kind of 'filler' was used but, unfortunately, Ian can't remember what it was. Startrite have suggested body filler may work, as it can be shaped easily.

What about the UKW forum? What do you guys suggest?

I mean, if I'm going to have to 'dispose of' the old wheel at some point anyway, I may as well try something now.

Thanks for reading. I would really appreciate your thoughts and will have some photos for you this evening.

Olly.

 

[wizer]

I reckon Bondo would probably do it actually. But there must be a company in the UK who can do this repair for you?

 

[WellsWood]

How big a chunk. Olly? if it's not too severe what about silicone sealer, with cling film (I would think you'd need to grease the underside to stop it sticking) drawn over it along with the surrounding area to form it into the correct profile? Maybe if the area is too large for the cling film trick you could simply shave it down to shape after curing with a very sharp knife.

 

[Chems]

Thats quite a beast bandsaw. I'm sure its something you could easily repair with the right type of stuff, some sort of glue and then sanded and filed back to shape would that work?

 

[Shrubby]

Olly
I would try 'Shoe Goo' or Sika caulk for the repair.They .should stick to whats there and can be crowned with a belt sander or die grider when cured.
Matt

 

[newt]

Olly it would be useful to know how much is missing. I would try and get some rubber of a similar composition and stick that in place. When dry sand to the correct profile. Rubber can be sanded and it is easier if you put it in the freezer first.

 

[squib]

+ 1 for sikaflex.

 

[Eddie]

Try these oneshttp://www.allbandsawblades.com/urethane_tires.htm

Eddie

 

[WellsWood]

Try these oneshttp://www.allbandsawblades.com/urethane_tires.htm

Eddie

Eddie, I think the point is Startrite have said the tyre can't be replaced without incurring a higher cost than that of a replacement.

That said I find it hard to believe that there isn't some way to remove the old one. If a replacement is the only way, you have nothing to lose by trying to get the old one off (assuming a repair solution cannot be found).

How's this for an idea:
Put the damaged wheel on the bottom so it is driven directly, set the slowest speed you can, lash up a rest on the frame, and get out your turning tools. :wink:

 

[jimi43]

I think most manufacturers say that you can't replace the tyres because...generally speaking....the average Joe who buys one can't do what is necessary.

I have seen tutorials on how to do it using the urethane "tires" from the USA...and have tried to find them in the UK to replace the ones on my DW739 which could do with new ones...some day. I understand that there might be heat shrink ones but the ones I have seen you glue in place with contact adhesive and make a scarf joint pointing away from the direction of rotation. The ones on that link look like either stretch or heat shrink though as they are already rings.

Jim

 

[selly]

In the farming industry this is availible for repairing rubber rollers which get a serious pasting.

Not sure how good it is though

http://agricultural.spaldings.co.uk/Sho ... oupID=7343

 

[OPJ]

Wow, thanks for all the suggestions so far! :shock: I really don't know which one to try, first...

Okay, I'd better show you some pictures.... :wink:

This is how it was for most of the day, as the driver was unwilling to help me manually unload the saw below the garage door (it was just too tall). H&S or insurance, I guess - Axminster would've gone all the way...

Eventually, I managed to drag my dad down so we could get it inside. I don't know where to begin describing how on Earth we managed this... Let's just say that my B&D Workmate sweated more than either of us!!!

My immediate reaction is that the table is incredibly low. Well, it's something I'll put up with (my SIP was too high... :roll. It will make it easier to cut large lumps.

Well, the main gouge (assuming this is it?) isn't half as bad as what I was expecting. Still, I can only imagine how this must affecting the tracking of wider blades. I'd hazard a guess and say narrow blades are okay, when tracked centrally?

There are also a couple of other scratches, like this, which I'd assume present less of a problem.

I haven't got things wired up and ready at the minute so, I can't yet switch it on and see what happens. I also think I've mistakenly been given a 110v lead instead of a blue 230v one.

Oh, and my other new toy arrived as well today (again, second hand). I couldn't afford much more after the bandsaw but, already, I'm impressed with the build quality and it feels so much more 'reliable' than my plasticcy Bosch every did.

I'll give both saws a good clean up before I cut any wood and will have to make a decision on which filler to try - by all means, please, keep your suggestions coming!

 

[wizer]

I'm really beginning to hate certain people on this forum. Deep Seated HATE...


ahem.

Doesn't look as bad as it sounded.

What size is that Makita. Can you report back on how well it cuts mitres please.

 

[Digit]

I'm sorry Olly but in my opinion their statement is BS!
I've retired wheels nearly four feet in diameter. That size was normally bonded into place with Epoxy resin, it can be a swine to remove, but it can be a DIY job. Trust me!

Roy.

 

[WellsWood]

That Makita's a 1013 Tom, same as mine.

That Startrite looks like a cracking bit of kit Olly, but must be a bit of a squeeze in your shop.

As it happens I know all about tall bandsaws in garages with up'n'over doors, my Axy 4300 needs very careful positioning:

 

[srp]

From the photo it doesn't look as though that little bit of damage would cause the blade to jump off. It might be worth having a go at setting up the tracking before you start to think about retreading the tyres.
The link to the Peachtree site is interesting, but they don't seem to ship to the UK - it might be worth emailing them to see what they can do though.
I really don't believe Startrite when they say you can't take the old tyres off - someone put them on in the first place. It might be a struggle, but the old tyres can be removed.
Have a look at the Sika website www.sika.co.uk - they make loads of different sealants and adhesives and they have a very good technical department who will advise which is the best to use. Some of the marine grades I've used are incredibly tough when cured. As someone else suggested, cling-film makes a good 'clamp' when it comes to the sticking bit of the job.
Have a look here http://www.provincialrubber.co.uk/rolle ... ering.html as a start on finding the right sort of rubber.

 

[iajon69]

Olly, if you can't repair the wheel, then there is a company in the UK (pretty sure that they are in South Wales) that can re-vulcanise bandsaw wheels - as usual my memory is playing up so can't remember the details off hand, but leave it with me and I will dig out the info and email you.

 

[toolsntat]

When I had to re-rubber the wheel that drives the planer/ thicknesser feed rollers on me Lurem combi the old one was still bonded good and well....

So the wheel was removed and set up against a disc sander then rotated to work down all the rough & uneaven areas.....

In the end I put the wheel back on without retiring it and it works ok :wink:

You could possibly try this with your wheel but as previously said it don`t look that bad as it is.....

Andy

 

[OPJ]

From the photo it doesn't look as though that little bit of damage would cause the blade to jump off.

I know what you mean. But the seller wasn't having any trouble keeping a blade on the wheels until after a wide blade snapped and shot back up inside the saw (that was when he noticed this damage). Anything less than an inch wide would probably be alright.

I don't doubt that the tyre could be removed, either (if someone put it on there, etc.). I just think it would be a lot of work when I could (hopefully) curve it with a little filler.

Mark, that's brilliant! I remember you telling me about it last year.

Must start following all these links you good people are posting...

 

[chipchaser]

I would try runnning it as is before doing anything else. If it doesn’t run ok then it must be worth trying a repair. That polyurethane roller repair compound looks good if the hardness of the set compound is somewhere near right.

If it doesn’t work maybe one of these firms could help:

http://www.fife-engineering.com/rollers.html

http://www.par-group.co.uk/rubber-polyu ... overy.aspx

There might be other firms nearer to you, try a search on applegate for rubber or polyurethane rollers

Regards

Graham