Bandsaw not switching on

[Arnold9801]

My brilliant Startrite 24-S-5 has just developed a problem. This morning it was working fine. I then put, a new blade on it turned it on but the small metal block behind the blade that helps in stopping the blade being pushed back as you feed work going into it, pinched to much and stopped the blade. I switched the off button straight away, but now it won't turn on at all.

I've checked and the blade is tur ING nicely manually and the door is properly closed. It's a 240v version.

I'm just wondering if Thers a reset button on it! It hasn't tripped anything else out in the workshop. I've turned the "trip switch" it's plugged into on and off but it makes no difference.

Why should the blade being compromised for a split second cause this?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Housey210]

Perhaps the pinch / stopping caused a current draw. Picky of starter inners and overload may help. "the small metal block behind the blade that helps in stopping the blade being pushed back" is there any thrust bearings?

 

[Spectric]

Is there an overcurrent trip in the starter that needs resetting ? Turn off power to machine and then wait & turn back on otherwise look for a resettable trip.

 

[niall Y]

Not by chance one of the microswitches on one of the doors -if you have had them open, whilst sorting the problem out? Murphy's Law in action.

 

[worn thumbs]

I'd be taking a look at the fuse,or if you don't have one,the circuit breaker.My 18-S-5 often blows fuses.

 

[Sachakins]

Maybe it's blown the capacitor?

 

[Arnold9801]

 

[Arnold9801]

The above photos show what my bandsaw is connected to.

However I've just located the fuses of the bandsaw as per the bottom of the two photos and found the middle of those three fuses blown. It says 20 amp on the fuse itself. I reached the wire, switched it on and it worked byt fir a split second.
I checked the fuse again, and the fuse wire has blown again.

What I don't understand is that this has onky ever happened since I fitted this new blade which is the proper blade.

Any advice why?

 

[Spectric]

What I don't understand is that this has onky ever happened since I fitted this new blade which is the proper blade.

Try running it without the blade fitted, that will narrow your problem down. Then look at sorting out the wiring, replace the old three phase isolator that uses wired fuses and sort out that main switch where the protective conductors all look to be just twisted together.

 

[Housey210]

does this not go through a dedicated dol starter? Picky of motor?

 

[Arnold9801]

Try running it without the blade fitted, that will narrow your problem down. Then look at sorting out the wiring, replace the old three phase isolator that uses wired fuses and sort out that main switch where the protective conductors all look to be just twisted together.

Thank you for your help but what you suggest is a little beyond me!
I will however try it without the blade. Good suggestion.
Thank you.

 

[Spectric]

does this not go through a dedicated dol starter?

looking at those electric's I very much doubt it. It looks like the first switch which is a 100 amp double pole as found in consumer units has a three core flex coming out to feed the old three phase isolator with wired fuses. If that first switch is fed by a ring which it looks like as there are two T&E cables and protected by a 32 amp device then that three core flex is not protected. To make the best of a bad situation the old three phase isolator with wired fuses should have been where that 100 amp switch is so the 20 amp wired fuse protects that flex. The problem then is that you can take fused spurs from a ring but at 13 amps so that 20 amp fuse and old isolator is a no no. So what motor is fitted to your saw ? Can it run from a 13 amp plug ?

 

[Arnold9801]

looking at those electric's I very much doubt it. It looks like the first switch which is a 100 amp double pole as found in consumer units has a three core flex coming out to feed the old three phase isolator with wired fuses. If that first switch is fed by a ring which it looks like as there are two T&E cables and protected by a 32 amp device then that three core flex is not protected. To make the best of a bad situation the old three phase isolator with wired fuses should have been where that 100 amp switch is so the 20 amp wired fuse protects that flex. The problem then is that you can take fused spurs from a ring but at 13 amps so that 20 amp fuse and old isolator is a no no. So what motor is fitted to your saw ? Can it run from a 13 amp plug ?

Thank usual again for your response. Sadly this is above me from an electrical perspective. Thinking need to get a sparkle here!