Bandsaw blade centreing

[thelastgizmo]

Can someone clarify where the blade should sit on the top wheel of a bandsaw. I've seen it said that the whole blade should be centred on the crown but also that the deepest part of the gullet should be in the centre of the crown. Which one is correct ? (if any). I'm using a 3/8th 6tpi blade at the moment but also have a 1/2" blade for resaw work.

 

[sunnybob]

One answer does NOT fit all bandsaws. way too many variables from make to make.
MOST bandsaws work well set up as per the snodgrass video,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

But especially older models sometimes go their own way.

The most vital art of learning the bandsaw is the bearing setting. Once the blade is stable on the wheel (wherever that is) move the bearings to it and make sure the blade teeth are not pinched by the side bearings when pressure is applied to the blade.

 

[Ttrees]

The set of the teeth would be way less on the fine blade you have, so it aint gonna
damage your tires, unless your cutting very tight curves.
The other blade I would try and make sure that the set have no contact, or reduced as much as possible to the best of the saws/blades ability....
There will be a compromise between tracking/effective use, and wear dependant on the crown profile.

Tom

 

[marcros]

Depending on what you are cutting, you may find that 6tpi is too many. When you get it set up and running, if you are still having issues that you can't explain, chances are that it will be this!

 

[Alexam]

As you will have now seen from Alex Snodgrass's video, narrow blades should be centred at the deepest part of the tooth gullet. However, as the blade width increases, this will not be possible and with some older model bandsaws, some have blade teeth off the edge of the wheel.

The most important thing is to ensure that the blade runs in the same place and is always vertical from the side view, using a set square as well as from the front view. As long as that can be maintained, BEFORE THE GUIDES ARE POSITIONED, you will get a straight cut. The guides are then positioned, but not before the blade is stable.
On the 1/8" blades that I regularly use, I have 14tpi, but the 1/2" sabrecut has only 3tpi

When using fine blades, the greater number of teeth will give you a smoother cut and if you need to know more about what is best, then try and speak with the Tuffsaw boss, Ian John, who knows it all.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Don't worry about where it sits, it doesn't matter.
What does matter is that the machine cuts True North, without any drift.
So the plan of attack is:
Set the fence parallel to the mitre slot
Draw a parallel line on a length of wood and cut it against the fence. If the blade drifts, adjust the tracking knob. Tightening the knob will move the blade back, slackening it off will bring it forward. You will have to adjust the guides and thrust bearing at the same time.
Iterate until it cuts true. Wherever the blade is now running is where it should run.

 

[MilesH]

Another thing to bear in mind when deepsawing is that the tension is slightly unequal between the sides of the blade. There's a tendency to cut concave (vertically) towards the frame of the bandsaw. So, allow for this if you have the fence on the frame side of the blade.