Bandsaw advice please?

[6pot]

First what a great forum. So much info, I am going to enjoy ploughing through it in time.

But, it is time to buy a bandsaw, I have put it off for too long now. I have read a lot of the reviews on the forum, all helpful, but I am still not sure.

I am not trade but more than hobby. I specifically need to cut green oak, 50m thick and 2500mm long, and a lot of it. I am actually making garage doors and can justify (in my mind) the cost of a decent bandsaw. But what would anyone recommend for this scale of job?

I've checked the spec for an Axminster AWESBS and a SBW4300WL. Is the SBW4300WL worth the extra 500 notes?

Cheers

 

[OLD]

The sawn surface from a bandsaw needs quite a lot of smoothing out and they are useful for deep cuts and curved work . Have you considered a table saw you will get a good cut surface and the table aids work on long timbers the AW 10BSB2 just got a good review on this forum.

 

[6pot]

The sawn surface from a bandsaw needs quite a lot of smoothing out and they are useful for deep cuts and curved work . Have you considered a table saw you will get a good cut surface and the table aids work on long timbers the AW 10BSB2 just got a good review on this forum.

Hi OLD. Thanks for the idea.The problem is I already have a Triton table saw which is great, but the depth of cut is no good.

 

[seaco]

Hi

Although your Triton won't cut right through you could flip the wood over after the initial cut to finish, this would still probably be quicker and more acurate than using a band saw, as Old say's it'll take a fair bit of work to make the oak suitable for use from a band saw...

A band saw though is a great bit of kit for alsorts of work and well worth the investment, but please don't be conned into buying cheap as you'll have no end of problems...

 

[Scrums]

Surely that would involve removing the riving knife ? gasp,shock horror.....

I never use one - but I think it's illegal ?

Personally I think a bandsaw and at least a 3/4" pref' 1" blade - the bigger the machine the better is a good idea, I can see a lot of 'pinching' resawing green stuff on a table saw and the initial cuts to get a flat face are going to be well dodgy.

As an afterthought - you're not thinking about starting those garage doors anytime soon are you? - that 50mm green oak is going to take some time to dry.

Chris.

 

[Scrit]

Have you considered a table saw you will get a good cut surface and the table aids work on long timbers the AW 10BSB2 just got a good review on this forum.

A table saw is good for smoother ripping, but the maximum depth of cut is a real limiter for deep ripping - and "deeping" (where the crown guard and riving knife are removed and a cut taken from both edges) is a hazardous endevour fraught with kickback rusk even when your saw has enough power to make the cut (and many DIY sawbenches are deiciient in that respect)

I never use one - but I think it's illegal ?

I wouild be more concerned about the injury aspect - especfially if you're self-employed.

I can see a lot of 'pinching' resawing green stuff on a table saw and the initial cuts to get a flat face are going to be well dodgy.

Especially without a riving knife - that's why we have them, to stop kickback (and injury).

Scrit

 

[davy_owen_88]

Is the SBW4300WL worth the extra 500 notes?

I haven't tried the other bandsaw you mention but the 4300 is a very nice machine. Plenty of power and can take a 1" blade, which is benificial for resawing. You'll probably be planing and thicknessing the sawn pieces anyway if you intend on making garage doors accurately, so the finish from the bandsaw isn't going to be a problem.

Davy

 

[seaco]

I knew the "politically correct" would get involved, with my old saw the riving knife would lower below the blade top so could still be used...

 

[Scrit]

I knew the "politically correct" would get involved, with my old saw the riving knife would lower below the blade top so could still be used...

Since when is it "politically correct" to consider safe working practice? Not to do so and furthermore to persist in advising others to ignore basic safety precautions as taught to any woodworking students has always been stupid and irresponsible - and will always be so.

Let's face it in order to achieve the depth of cut of even a small bandsaw on a table saw requires that the crown guard and riving knife be removed on most table saws. Doing this on a typical 10in table saw will allow a maximum of about 7in to be ripped - even the meanest 14in bandsaws can easily top that. But the other point is that traditionally rip saws were quite powerful with 5HP and upwards on 5in depth of cut machines - this is specifically to overcome the tendency to bind in cut and stall, especially when working green stock. "Deeping" tends to be rather innacurate and prone to binding, stalling and kickback as well as requiring as much or even more clean-up than you need to do on timbers being ripped on a bandsaw. This is one of those areas where a bandsaw will comfortably outperform a table saw

Scrit

 

[andycktm]

Hi 6pot
Is that 6 cylinder or how many teas before starting work?
What about the axminster perform CCBB or even the CCVBB.I think the hobby rating is more for the amount of usage than accuracy in this case.The CCVBB takes a 3/4 blade.

 

[OLD]

Buying tools is addictive you were thinking of spending £770 you could have the table saw for £610 leaving £160 and a triton table towards your initial choice of bandsaw (£260) and no more sawing issues.

 

[greggy]

hi 6pot, i agree with scrit totaly, YOU SHOULD NEVER REMOVE THE CROWN GUARD unless you want your digits removed. the best and safest way to go is a BANDSAW. just my 2 peneth worth

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi 6Pot

Welcome to the forum.

Scrit's advice is always excellent and well worth taking.

Cheers
Neil

 

[Philly]

HI 6Pot
Just to move things back on topic - bandsaws.
The two you mention are both good machines. For the money the smaller Axminster is great value. I have the larger 4300 and it is a different beast! It depends how big your workshop is and how serious you are about woodworking! Do you really need 12 inch depth of cut? You also need a 16 amp supply for the larger machine - extra cost if you have to get a sparky in.
I think you would be happy with the cheaper machine. In the future you could always sell it and upgrade?
Hope this helps
Philly
4300 review