Bandsaw advice for resaw.

[Dillydally]

Hi,

Apologies to roll in straight away asking for help! Over the past month I've been trawling this site in particular along with google trying to research bandsaws. Single phase. I've going round and round in circles and have finally registered to try to clear up my questions! I hope I can finally end up getting the reassurance to buy my first "proper" bandsaw and achieve what I'm setting out to. As I've yet to find videos etc to set my mind at ease and part with some cash...

I purely need resaw - nothing above 100mm height in softwoods - max lengths of timber 450mm into 15mm thicknesses
I need speed for large volumes of cuts
I need the resaws to be straight but deviation of + - 1mm would be acceptable - but hopefully this isn going to happen
The finished cut doesn't need to be smooth so a harsh blade is ok (any suggestions?)

Every video I see is demonstrating how big the saw can resaw at its max height very slowly and the thinnest veneer they can achieve. Complete opposite to what I'm trying to do! Hence me being confused if I can get any of the saws I've been looking at to do what I'm after...

Models I've considered

Hammer n4400
Basa 5
Basato 5-2 used
Startrite 352e
Sip 01445

Does anyone have experience with any of these? Am I asking too much? Or will these do what I'm asking of them? Or any other suggestions.

Any help will be greatly received, many thanks. Simon

 

[marcros]

Tuffsaws for blades. I think that any of the saws you mention, if set up correctly will do what you need with the correct blade on.

The axminster industrial series is also worth a look.

Veneer cutting just demonstrates the accuracy of setup.

 

[sunnybob]

surely you would be better off with a table saw? bandsaws are awkward to set up as i know to my cost, and any alteration to blades is very time consuming.

 

[devonwoody]

Its the blade quality that makes a good bandsaw. (tuffsaws are good and helpful)
Then experience working the saw.
Then setting up correctly and accurately
Most bandsaws should do what you want upto 100mm.
In the future you might want a larger capacity.


Welcome to those to new posters. (hammer)

 

[Hickorystick]

I have just bought the Hammer N4400. The supplied blade was rubbish so I bought a couple of new blades fromTuffsaws which are super sharp and quiet.
I've been experimenting with its capabilities (and mine) and have been trying both resawing and veneer cutting for the first time.
Once the guard height is set and the fence positioned I found both activities straight forward and satisfyingly accurate.
Push sticks obviously recommended.
For what you need it for this saw would happily do it all day long however I'm sure a bandsaw half the size and half the price would also..
Phil

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I suggest you tread very carefully here to avoid disappointment. Your primary requirement is resawing 4" softwood stock fast. Bandsaws are the right tool for this operation but speed isn't one of their greatest strengths! To cut straight they need the kerf to clear the shavings, the faster you cut, the more that swarf builds

The most efficient way of dealing with that is two fold: Big gullets and beam strength. Both come from a wide blade with few teeth per inch. You have stated you can live with a rough finish in order to access speed and accuracy. This is good because the fewer the teeth, the faster but also rougher the finish is.

I specifically recommend the 1" 1.3tpi ripper blade from Tuffsaws. It's designed for flying through green timber and as such has massive gullets. It cuts pretty much as fast as you can push

Now in order to tension a 1" blade you need a quality bandsaw with the rigidity in its frame to withstand the forces of that tension. Anything from Felder will do provided it can take a 1" blade. The 4400 is a great machine. Any trade quality machine that is in the £1000 area or above will likely do the job but you must confirm it's ability to adequately tension an inch blade because manufacturer claims of max blade capacity are frequently exaggerated

 

[Dillydally]

It sounds like my thoughts so far have been along the right lines.. Your comments have definately helped confirm this. "cuts as fast as you can push it" is what I really wanted to hear. Also the ability to tension the blade correctly is something I've been very dubious about on known cheaper machines, which has definately been taken on board. Many thanks for taking time to respond, really appreciated. Simon

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

No problem. The only thing I'd add ( but know nothing about) is there are machines made specifically for resawing. They take a massive blade (circa 4" width). I have no idea who makes them or cost etc, I just happened to be watching a repeat of Norm while making a fire the other day and he had one. Other than that I've literally never heard of them! But that sucker had some serious beam strength!!

 

[paulm]

I think for the stated use of resawing softwoods 100mm thick and 450mm long you are probably over-specifying the machine needed.

Any decent mid-range bandsaw with a decent blade would be able to do that easily enough and quickly enough.

As it's softwood then resin build up may be an issue and the sabre blades from Tuffsaws with the extra set on the teeth, as well as low tpi and large gullets, would also work well and available in 3 tpi and 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" etc which a mid-range machine should be able to tension okay.

No harm in spending more on a more industrial quality saw such as those listed (except maybe for the sip which isn't necessarily in the same league as the rest), and that may be sensible if it's for daily trade use for example, but it's probably unnecessary otherwise imho.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Alexam]

Hi Simon,
Loads of good information from others, but can I ask what actual 'large volume' of cuts you envisage on a daily basis, or at whatever rate you may need? As @paulm says, you may be looking for more than you need for this task as the job could be done by most decent bandsaws.

 

[deema]

A proper resaw is IMO one of the most versatile machines for cutting wood there is. They are (again) IMO very safe as they will not kick back, and with the power feed allow the safe cutting of almost any size of timber single handed. The price us driven by how stiff the frame ihas to be to enable the tension in the blade to be achieved.

Unbelievable accuracy can be achieved, and feed rates that will take your breath away....faster than you could push!

A lot of resaws require a pit to fit the lower wheel in...however a secondhand Wadkin E series doesn't. You can use the smaller machine with 'normal' bandsaw thickness of blades. An alround machine if you have 3ph.

 

[Dillydally]

I've looked at the felder with auto feeds, they look amazing. But just too much in size and money for me to achieve. Even the 10-30 year old machines are slightly above he price range and even bigger. As this will be in my garage come workshop. A dream .....

With regards to amounts.. I guess 2/3 days a week and a total of 300-400m of finished material.

Suggestions on what will still be suitable in a smaller size 12/14/16" ? Are welcome. As if I can achieve what I've detailed above but without the dent I'd be very happy. Only knowing very little and never owning a bandsaw I've been under the impression these were the sort of size saws that I would need to chew up softwood without a strain on the frame/motor. 1.5hp upwards and 16" cast iron wheels only. really wouldn't want to kill it a while after buying it.

Thanks,

Simon

 

[woodpig]

I would think anything above a 12" with a good strong motor would do fitted with a 3/4" blade. Have a look around for a used Startrite, can't go wrong if it's in reasonable condition.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Startrite-351 ... 1585653608

Looks nice.

 

[Dillydally]

Yes, saw that one... Chances of me winning it are slim to none. Always pipped at the post.. If anyone knows of a 352/351 let me know.

Simon

 

[deema]

I believe the 3 series were education saws and therefore of good quality. The S range were the industrial saws, so a 14SX or an 18SX would be typical machines the x is for the number of speeds or pulleys the machine had. The 18 machines are not that big, and really good saws, not rally worth IMO having the blade welding facility as most people buy blades ready welded rather than buying blade in bulk and cutting / welding themselves.

300m to 400m equates to c 100~200m a day, that's a lot for any standard bandsaw and not what they were designed for. I feel you would be far better with a proper Resaw. The Wadkins do come up on eBay for c£1500~£2500, depending on model and age. The real big Robinsons (fantastic saws) etc that need a pit can be bought cheaper, but you need a lot more space, and either a pit or a platform built around them....hence the lower price.

 

[no idea]

I've got a Record BS400 and I've had no problems tensioning a one inch 1.3tpi Tuffsaws ripper blade. It flew through 6" tall softwood so you should easily be able to achieve what you want with something similar to the Record and this blade.

 

[koemanrob]

I've had the hammer n4400 for several years, has never struggled on hardwoods (apart from when i can't be bothered to change the blade!), sawn 10 inch thick oak for veneers without much problem. Bit pricey maybe, but then they all are these days! I'm sure others of a similar price would do the job equally well.

 

[deema]

A standard band saw will not cut at a rate of 33' a minute 4" of softwood, which is the typical output of a Wadkin PBR which carries a blade rather wider than 1" for the task. At 200m of wood that's approximately 20 minutes of sawing time assuming a person loading and one unloading.

A standard bandsaw would be lucky to cut more than 6' a minute, so almost 2 hours sawing with continuous feed of tow people, much longer if your on your own.

The normal band saw is not built for this type of task.

A 16" (5" cutting depth) table saw with a 5hp motor (using the rule of thumb 1hp per 1" deoth of cut) would be a better choice than a band saw for this level of work.

 

[woodfarmer]

I do a lot of resawing pine 85mm thick. The tool I use is a circular saw with a lot of TCT teeth . it will cut at walking pace.

I know for rippingthey recommend a 24 tooth blade butthe 48 tooth cuts and has cut for teh last 4-5 years really well. It also gets used for cross cutting firewood (mostly oak)

 

[Dillydally]

Thanks everyone for the advice. After reading a review on here about the record power bs400, I was sold on that! But came across a nearly new bs500 which I've just arrived home with. Here hoping I've made the correct choice. Once I've got the ne blade from tuffsaws and set it up ill post an update.

Simon