I couldn’t actually find this on BPI or Bidspotter actually - will keep an eye out though
Band Saw & Planer/Thicknesser for hobbyist
- Thread starter yan89
- Start date
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Tread carefully because you want to end up with something that does what you want and not just something that fits available space, from experience there is nothing worse than a machine that takes up floor space and fails to meet expectations, then cost more to get it upto a usable state. Pay attention to the blades, especially the setting which is where my Record PT107 let me down and disposable blades can be just a fit and forget.
I have the Makita 2012NB and have used one or two of this model for years. My current Makita 2012NB I think I bought used on 'bay site.
I heartily recommend this model and only downside is lack of planer.
I am just a hobbyist now but love my 2012NB for its simplicity. I have a separate dedicated planer.
Happy hunting Yan89
rogxwhit
Established Member
Your threshold would have to be very low indeed to consider such a thing! Universal brushed motor - noisy. Weak frame and fence - innacurate. The worst of all worlds!
rogxwhit
Established Member
Just to expand that a bit, the lunchbox thicknesser will probably work as intended straight from the box, with no set-up except possibly the knives.
A lightweight 10"x6" floor-standing over-under may require setting up of table alignments because factory assemblers are in a hurry and will never have to use what they're assembling. So have a few spanners and a metre straight-edge to hand.
The cheapo bench-top model will in real terms be incapable of being set up - it's just not rigid enough. :-(
A lightweight 10"x6" floor-standing over-under may require setting up of table alignments because factory assemblers are in a hurry and will never have to use what they're assembling. So have a few spanners and a metre straight-edge to hand.
The cheapo bench-top model will in real terms be incapable of being set up - it's just not rigid enough. :-(
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Apologies it was a Shopsmith Mk5, links below:
Shopsmith site
https://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/
BPI
https://www.bpiauctions.com/auction...eb15-9211-4fa4-b041-73593dcc8c6e?ic=30&page=2
hth
Molynoox
Established Member
Is it all Bolton that auction stuff? Seems to be.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
That bandsaw is going rather cheap,
but likely needing work , as these have cork/rubber ones well you might have to make yer own tires as you'd be hard pressed to find 560mm ones.
Just an example of the prices of three phase stuff, should you spot something on that other website or the bay which likely can be run from an inverter/vfd on 240v
(you need to see that stated on motor plate)
Then food for thought, as you'd likely pay the later amount if buying something new and single phase,
and then you'd have to upgrade supply compared to the VFD route.
Not sure if you could do the same thing with a PT which has two motors.
It ain't simple compared.
but likely needing work , as these have cork/rubber ones well you might have to make yer own tires as you'd be hard pressed to find 560mm ones.
Just an example of the prices of three phase stuff, should you spot something on that other website or the bay which likely can be run from an inverter/vfd on 240v
(you need to see that stated on motor plate)
Then food for thought, as you'd likely pay the later amount if buying something new and single phase,
and then you'd have to upgrade supply compared to the VFD route.
Not sure if you could do the same thing with a PT which has two motors.
It ain't simple compared.
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How many projects do you think you'll be doing in a given year? I'd suggest that if it's fewer than double figures, then I wouldn't bother with a thicknesser. You say you're already going to be using hand planes to dress one face (and side?), you might as well prep all four sides with planes; it won't take much longer. And it's certainly better for your wallet and your health 
... unless you go down the Veritas/Lie Nielsen/Clifton route.
I would avoid the table saw in a small workshop and go for a decent bandsaw instead. A 14" model will handle most operations you could need and is IMHO more versatile and much safer than a TS. It's also quieter and takes up much less room/easier to move around etc...
If you still wanted a thicknesser, any decent brand lunchbox would do you. I would avoid a combi machine. I've had one, and it's generally a PITA to swap over modes (unless you go for an expensive model), and you always end up compromising the width of stock you can mill in the thicknesser mode. Suffice to say, I sold it. A good scrub plane and a smoother can work almost as quickly as changing modes for one-off pieces. If you're doing a lot of batch work and a high number of projects, then that's a different equation.
Paul Sellers has a fine article discussing the merits of a bandsaw (even a cheap 10" one) that you may find helpful in your decision-making process: Choosing, Setting up and Using a Bandsaw - Paul Sellers' Blog
... unless you go down the Veritas/Lie Nielsen/Clifton route.I would avoid the table saw in a small workshop and go for a decent bandsaw instead. A 14" model will handle most operations you could need and is IMHO more versatile and much safer than a TS. It's also quieter and takes up much less room/easier to move around etc...
If you still wanted a thicknesser, any decent brand lunchbox would do you. I would avoid a combi machine. I've had one, and it's generally a PITA to swap over modes (unless you go for an expensive model), and you always end up compromising the width of stock you can mill in the thicknesser mode. Suffice to say, I sold it. A good scrub plane and a smoother can work almost as quickly as changing modes for one-off pieces. If you're doing a lot of batch work and a high number of projects, then that's a different equation.
Paul Sellers has a fine article discussing the merits of a bandsaw (even a cheap 10" one) that you may find helpful in your decision-making process: Choosing, Setting up and Using a Bandsaw - Paul Sellers' Blog
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
I'd think a good comparison of bandsaw size can be somewhat likened to bicycle
wheels, performance wise, i.e you wouldn't see too many going down the shops on a BMX.
Although many persevere on with a smaller machine, likely because there are bicycles in the way!
wheels, performance wise, i.e you wouldn't see too many going down the shops on a BMX.
Although many persevere on with a smaller machine, likely because there are bicycles in the way!
I spent many an afternoon going to the shops (and other places) on my BMX as a kidI'd think a good comparison of bandsaw size can be somewhat likened to bicycle
wheels, performance wise, i.e you wouldn't see too many going down the shops on a BMX.
Although many persevere on with a smaller machine, likely because there are bicycles in the way!
That said, I preferred my first mountain bike.Noted - that was the one I almost bought prior to posting this thread last night actually.
Many thanks
Aye - I did think it was too cheap to be any good to be fair, but was responding to another poster's suggestion. Cheers for clarifying!
Many thanks!
Cheers for the lengthy response. I'd assume it'll be one a month maybe, but we will see how I get on - I've absolutely loved making the bench and that's likely the most boring thing I'll be spending my time on so who knows.How many projects do you think you'll be doing in a given year? I'd suggest that if it's fewer than double figures, then I wouldn't bother with a thicknesser. You say you're already going to be using hand planes to dress one face (and side?), you might as well prep all four sides with planes; it won't take much longer. And it's certainly better for your wallet and your health
I would avoid the table saw in a small workshop and go for a decent bandsaw instead. A 14" model will handle most operations you could need and is IMHO more versatile and much safer than a TS. It's also quieter and takes up much less room/easier to move around etc...
If you still wanted a thicknesser, any decent brand lunchbox would do you. I would avoid a combi machine. I've had one, and it's generally a PITA to swap over modes (unless you go for an expensive model), and you always end up compromising the width of stock you can mill in the thicknesser mode. Suffice to say, I sold it. A good scrub plane and a smoother can work almost as quickly as changing modes for one-off pieces. If you're doing a lot of batch work and a high number of projects, then that's a different equation.
Paul Sellers has a fine article discussing the merits of a bandsaw (even a cheap 10" one) that you may find helpful in your decision-making process: Choosing, Setting up and Using a Bandsaw - Paul Sellers' Blog
You're right though - I don't think it'll be many.
Yeah, I've a few planes. I presume the hazard to my health is from the dust?
Ha! Good point!More likely the cardio workout you'll get doing the planning
This! It's certainly a consideration. If, like me, you sit at a desk all day, having some exercise is very good for your health. But also, yes, the lack of dust from machines is a massive consideration, especially when working with hardwoods. I know safety isn't that sexy these days with all the cool power tools and machines available, but breathing in that stuff is never good.More likely the cardio workout you'll get doing the planning
In addition, there's very little risk of cutting off fingers or limbs with hand tools. Though much harder to dispose of bo....
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
This is my surface planer, nearly 7 feet with adjustable bed
A few choks underneath to make level, and a cleat on the end for a planing stop
No saw cuts nor chisel marks makes it real easy as I can see lumps
and twist.
Not many use a bench surface and hand plane like such.
Many scoff at the idea, but can never seem to provide an alternate method which is
easer, speedier, and more accurate than working like so,
and just end up making potshots instead.
Charlesworth and Cosman would be two, should one glean from whatever hints of such use they might have suggested on some free video...
if you catch my drift.
No mad workout or strife, especially once you can use the cap iron to its full potential and not have to do any silly shenanigans regarding grain, as some might suggest.
David W (D_W here) has some documents and youtubes online i.e a woodcentral article "Setting a Cap Iron" as does Derek Cohen have some stuff on the forums and his blog.
That is the next step after learning how to plane, going beyond the basic tutorials
That information is hands down from the best of the lot, which many either
disregard with ignorance, or to keep one on a drip feed system.
Many fail at learning how to use a close set cap iron for a few reasons,
mainly because they skip the free hints from the former guys teachings,
or just won't dare click to see a plane working the way it should be setup, with their own eyes?
Possibly still think a sheet of ply is a suitable surface and refuse to think not, lol.
Just sayin the hand planes are not slow or difficult, and anyone who suggests so has bad habits.
All the best
Tom
A few choks underneath to make level, and a cleat on the end for a planing stop
No saw cuts nor chisel marks makes it real easy as I can see lumps
and twist.
Not many use a bench surface and hand plane like such.
Many scoff at the idea, but can never seem to provide an alternate method which is
easer, speedier, and more accurate than working like so,
and just end up making potshots instead.
Charlesworth and Cosman would be two, should one glean from whatever hints of such use they might have suggested on some free video...
if you catch my drift.
No mad workout or strife, especially once you can use the cap iron to its full potential and not have to do any silly shenanigans regarding grain, as some might suggest.
David W (D_W here) has some documents and youtubes online i.e a woodcentral article "Setting a Cap Iron" as does Derek Cohen have some stuff on the forums and his blog.
That is the next step after learning how to plane, going beyond the basic tutorials
That information is hands down from the best of the lot, which many either
disregard with ignorance, or to keep one on a drip feed system.
Many fail at learning how to use a close set cap iron for a few reasons,
mainly because they skip the free hints from the former guys teachings,
or just won't dare click to see a plane working the way it should be setup, with their own eyes?
Possibly still think a sheet of ply is a suitable surface and refuse to think not, lol.
Just sayin the hand planes are not slow or difficult, and anyone who suggests so has bad habits.
All the best
Tom
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