Band saw guide blocks

[martin.j.h]

Does anybody know of a replacement guide block or conversion kit to change from the roller type guide to the fixed ceramic block type. Only on my Record Power 350 the guide wheels never run true (plus they make an awful racket)

 

[Green]

I Looked into this a while back and couldnt find a uk source. Plenty in the States :roll:

I have read of people making their own out of hardwood (Lignum??).

 

[martin.j.h]

This is very true - I almost mentioned that in my original post. Do we here in the UK not think that the fixed guides are any good? Is it cheaper for manufacturers? (I can't really see that though). There does not seem to be the same variety of after sales options over here, or for that matter options at point of purchase, Now that will be down to cost!

 

[MIGNAL]

If it is possible on the Record try hardwood blocks or dowels pre-soaked in WD40. Worth a try to see if it's an improvement on the originals.

 

[Scrit]

Heavier machines often used to use solid wood blocks of lignum vitae. One of the better known guide systems, called the Chaco guide uses Bakelite - the nearest you'll get to that off the shelf is probably Tufnol (phenolic plastic) which is what my Bursgreen saw uses. Problem about soaking timber in oil (WD40) is that it might well contaminate the cut.

Scrit

 

[Green]

Scrit

I have some offcuts of Trespa Athlon is that the same as phenolic?

 

[Jake]

I have a lot of sympathy with not liking bearing guides - they've always seemed liked a bit of a gimmick to me, which became very trendy and then a de facto 'must have'.

I don't think ceramics are realistic - Startrite sell them as an upgrade for those of their saws that don't have them as standard ... for £350. And I don't know of any others - maybe the Chacos that Scrit mentions are more realistic?

 

[MIGNAL]

Heavier machines often used to use solid wood blocks of lignum vitae. One of the better known guide systems, called the Chaco guide uses Bakelite - the nearest you'll get to that off the shelf is probably Tufnol (phenolic plastic) which is what my Bursgreen saw uses. Problem about soaking timber in oil (WD40) is that it might well contaminate the cut.

Scrit

No. I've been using this method for a few years now and I'm still on the original blocks that I made. I think even forensics would have a hard time finding oil that has transferred to the wood. It's simply not an issue.

 

[ivan]

If you were worried about oil, try camelia! I have used rapeseed oil for soaking guides (also a good cheap relacement for camelia oil, I get mine in Tesco)

 

[OPJ]

Heavier machines often used to use solid wood blocks of lignum vitae. One of the better known guide systems, called the Chaco guide uses Bakelite - the nearest you'll get to that off the shelf is probably Tufnol (phenolic plastic) which is what my Bursgreen saw uses. Problem about soaking timber in oil (WD40) is that it might well contaminate the cut.

Scrit

That's interesting, Scrit, I've not heard anyone suggest Tufnol before!

What sort of thickness would you recommend? I assume it's advisable to turn the side bearings in to a circular shape. On my saw, the back edge of the blade runs against the edge (not face) of the thrust bearing - do you thing this would cause any problems with Tufnol?

It sounds like an interesting idea, maybe worth trying. The only real problem I have with the roller bearings is that they can be noisy!

 

[woodbloke]

As Scrit has said, lignum vitae blocks work really well. I have a Euro 260 saw that originaly had metal blocks, these came out and some lignum blocks made instead. I run them initially with the blocks touching the blade and after a little while enough wood has been worn away to ensure the correct clearance - Rob

 

[Scrit]

I have some offcuts of Trespa Athlon is that the same as phenolic?

Athlon is the HPL (high pressure laminate) used for toilet cubicles, etc isn't it? HPL is normally phenolic plastic with two surface coatings of melamine, so you'd possibly need to remove the melamine coating somehow because it is very hard and might possibly damage the blade (although in truth I really don't know)

I've not heard anyone suggest Tufnol before!

What sort of thickness would you recommend? I assume it's advisable to turn the side bearings in to a circular shape.

I used to have a White 30in cast-iron frame bandsaw with Chaco-style guides and they weren't wheels at all. Instead they are made up from laminae each about 4 to 6mm thick which could all be individually adjusted to support any blade from 1/4in to 1-1/4in. If you imagine a diamond shape with one of the flats sitting against the side of the blade you'll catch my drift. I'll try to find an illustration if I can. The rear thrust bearings in a Chaco set are similar to the type found on most Euro-band saws these day

Scrit

 

[johnnyb]

the startrite back bearing solution always seems trouble free(ish) and simple. this is a piece of carbide brazed to a rod but obviously the carbide bearing is the important bit! could possibly be cobbled with an old router cutter side bearings are c i on the startrite although i have used lignum in the past with good results.

 

[Digit]

My elderly band saw had a similar rear bearing and I changed it to a ball race, the reason was that it tended to put a burr on the back edge of the band.

Roy.

 

[Scrit]

the startrite back bearing solution always seems trouble free(ish) and simple.

Except when the carbiode "pad" drops off (as I had happen once). Other than that I agree. Stupidly simple and trouble free - like the rest of the machine

Scrit

 

[user 5024]

I too have tried to find ceramic guide blocks for my Kity 613 without success so, I thought that I would try and make some.
The drawing and photo should be self explanatory for anyone with access to a metal lathe.
The ceramic blocks and rod were Spyderco ceramic files which were cut up using a thin diamond slitting disc from Eternal Tools.
I was worried that, being files, they would abrade the blade but they are very fine and the square guides only lightly touch the blade so there is no problem there,The rear ceramic rod does suffer some wear (about 0.1mm groove after extensive use) but it would take forever to destroy a blade or itself.

The results were very good :-
Easy to set up, much quieter than the original guides, just as I had hoped.
The new guides plus using a Dragon 3tpi M42 blade have transformed my bandsaw from an essential but rough tool into a precision instrument.

As a newcomer to this forum I am delighted with all the useful information.
I hope that this contribution will be of use to someone.

 

[DaveL]

Hi Dave D,

Welcome to the forum.

A good set of guides you have made there, your pictures have been caught by our spam trap, this will stop once you have a few more posts to your name. Here they are:

 

[Digit]

Very nice Dave, I'll have to make me a set like that!

Roy.

 

[Rich]

Would Iroko be okay for that?

Rich.

 

[DaveL]

Would Iroko be okay for that?

Lignum vitae would be better.