Bad Glue

[ED65]

I'm guessing it cures by exposure to air ?

Not in the way you're thinking, no. Water-based products in general aren't like real varnish and enamel paint where repeated small exposures to air begins the curing process because they react to any available oxygen.

With PVA glues when we say the glue dries it's meant literally, not figuratively as with so many other products like varnish or epoxy. The main mechanism of PVA glues setting is dehydration, within a joint this comes primarily from the wood sucking the moisture away.

This is why there can be local swelling of the wood which subsides slowly over a period of days or longer, depending on how humid the workshop is.

 

[Ttrees]

Thought I'd do an update since I tested some of my glue out last night ...
Come to think about it....It could be 4 years or more since I bought this glue .
Unfortunately the stuff is gone off
The splines was hand planed around 2 weeks ago and the rebates looked clean enough and dry ..
I rotated the bottle a few times in the house to make sure there was no separation ...
colour was consistent throughout and no sign of lumps or snot ...
I did not notice any smell that was concerning like sour milk .
I have only used titebond original once, whenever that was ...
No noticeable problem upon use ...I was delighted it was still sound
no inkling atall of bad glue
24 hrs later just a while ago, came back to it and noticed the chalky residue #-o

It seems it does not have the bond that I nearly got accustomed to ...
It just doesn't chip off with difficulty like before .
I thought I'd have another go at trying to smell it again
I can't remember what the smell was like before, other than I thought it was nice smell
maybe a slightly sweet ? (don't take me up on this)
Now though... If I was to make a comparison, the closest thing I would guess it was like is pencils .
A kind of a sharp smell that's not too nice ( I don't like the smell of pencils )

I suppose I've got expensive end grain sealer now at least ...
I wonder how much water ,if any will I add when I need it ?

Its got me suspicious of buying the stuff now in town ..
Thanks Naz for the tip about the manufacture date code

From their website ... ''Our current lot numbering system is a 10 digit code. The format is: aymmddbat#. The "a" stands for Made in the U.S.A. The "y" is the last digit of the year of manufacture. Digits "mm" represent the month, and "dd" represent the day of the month. The final four digits represent the batch number used for quality control purposes. Therefore, a product with the lot number A104270023 was manufactured on April 27, 2011''.

So A = America , 10 = looks like 2010 to me ???
The rest of the code seems obvious ....What am I missing ?

Gonna Guess shelf life means 1 year since it was manufactured ....or is it since you've opened it ?

Thanks folks again
T

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you don't need a longer open time Everbuild D4 is 100% waterproof and a fraction of the price of Titebond. It does grab quickly, which of course can be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on your needs.

 

[memzey]

Well I dug out the bottles of glue that had previously failed (Titebond I and III) and clamped up some scraps last night. Just tried the "wack it with a hammer" test on them both and here are the results:



I'm quite surprised to say the joints are sound. I suspect that when I ran my previous test the temperature was just hovering above zero whereas my new shed is well insulated and probably doesn't drop below 10*. Not sure if that would make the difference but it's the only thing I can think of?