Axminster HBS350N / RECORD POWER BS350 Bandsaw Advice?

[Chris152]

Am I right thinking that to make a full 23cm cut depth on the Record bs350 I have to adjust what looks like a sliding plate on the inside of the blade guard that comes down from the top wheel housing? I can't find reference to it in the manual. And if so, why is that sliding plate there at all?

I don't want to make a 23 cm cut but wanted it a bit deeper yesterday than is currently set as its max depth and couldn't figure why it's much less than 23 cm that's advertised.

Thanks

 

[MikeJhn]

Chris

To get the full 230mm cut on my 350S I have to force the guide carrier upwards with the handle, the side slide piece does not seem to interfere with it at all, but then I have chopped off the extension piece on either side of the bottom of the carrier, not that I think this makes a difference to the height of cut.

Mike

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Mike - just a little more pressure and it raised fully. I didn't have the confidence to push it that bit harder. It looks like that sliding plate was limiting the movement and it seems to have a lock screw, but the stop bit is now slid right to the bottom of the guard.

Did you remove the guard to chop some off? I find when it's down close to the wood I'm cutting I can't see the blade or the mark on the wood without lifting it out of the way to check alignment.

 

[MikeJhn]

Yes I removed the whole guard to chop off the bottom bits, not a difficult job, bit fiddly, but not difficult.

Mike

 

[Chris152]

That looks very tidy and accessible, Mike.

 

[MikeJhn]

The aluminium drop plate does restrict the allen wrench access to the rear thrust bearing, so I have put a slot in it to make it easier, will post a pic later.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

Photo as promised:

Mike

 

[Chris152]

Looks good Mike. I'm still trying to pluck up the courage to cut the end off the guard.

 

[MikeJhn]

Chris

Courage mon courageux, Courage. =D>

Mike

 

[Chris152]

Yes I removed the whole guard to chop off the bottom bits, not a difficult job, bit fiddly, but not difficult.

Mike

Mike - do I remember correctly that those guides are the Axminster upgrade? If so, did they take much adapting to fit the Record 350? I've been faffing with the guides that came with mine again today, they really seem to be pretty useless, dangling around at whatever angle and not parallel with the blade at all - and as a result letting the blade wander when it hits more demanding grain in the wood. A google search suggests Record used to do a 'precision bearing upgrade' - a link to Yandles appears but when I follow it there's nothing at Yandles, or anywhere else.

 

[MikeJhn]

Chris

I posted a thread about fitting them here: new-bandsaw-guides-from-axminster-t104943.html they do seem to be holding their adjustment better than the originals and have a nice Ohh factor about them when compared to the rubbing blocks.

Mike

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Mike - I thought I remembered a thread about it but couldn't find it. As it happens I went ahead and bought the 350 set from Axminster while I was there this morning and decided to have a bash at fitting the top guides and, as far as I can tell, it worked!

I removed all three rubbing bits, cut off the two hangers to which the side-to-side rubbing mounts attach

and attached the new set straight to the side of what was left by the rod holding the rubbing bits assembly - it lines up perfectly. I had to cut the blade guard down (as you suggested anyway, but I didn't have the courage to do til now!) to make it fit back on and all line up properly. Here it is completed:

It feels solid (though the brass adjusters feel stiff - should I grease them?) and seems to work. I've not done the lower guides yet as this'll involve drilling through the lower wheel housing from what I can see, and that will mean removing the table - which I have set just right now and don't want to mess up again.

 

[MikeJhn]

That looks a lot easier than the way I did it, I did not have the original mounts on my machine and obviously that made me go the most complicated route I could find to attach the guides. :roll:

You have to loosen the front bearing bolt to allow the side adjusters to work reasonably well, that's why one of mine stripped, constantly adjusting the bearings when first setting the unit up.

Mike

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Mike - I wouldn't have thought to even try if I hadn't remembered your fitting them. I loosened the hex nut on the bearings but the adjusters are kind of stiff, I might just try some grease to see if it improves them. They seem to be a vast improvement on the old things - now to see if they improve my woodworking results! (hammer)

 

[MikeJhn]

Your woodworking will improve in leaps and bounds now you have those fitted. =D> :lol:

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

I drilled for the bottom guides from inside the bottom door, although it was a pig to line it up properly, there is quite a bit of grinding to the block assembly needed to allow the table to tilt fully, and up stands required to move the bottom bearings away from the casing, I moved them up as much as possible to reduce the distance between the top and bottom guides.

Mike

 

[Chris152]

I just fitted a new 5/8ths blade to the saw and I'm getting some fore and aft movement on it. This hasn't happened before so I'm wondering if it might be the blade? The weld looks fine as I see it on the saw - any thoughts?

Here's a 4 second video in which you can just about see it.

https://vimeo.com/243186364

Thanks, Chris.

 

[MikeJhn]

Chris

Sorry for not replying sooner, that amount of movement is not untoward, once you have the rear bearing adjusted to be clear at the worst point when the blade is under pressure it will be against the rear bearing and smooth out as I am sure you have found out by now.

How is it all working now? :ho2

Mike

 

[Chris152]

No problem Mike, you've given so much help with this saw already! I started another thread on the issue of the blade and others gave the same advice. Apart from being disconcerting as the blade moved irregularly through a cut (I'm still trying to learn to be accurate with this thing), I also figured that only one section of the blade (the bit most forward in the cut) was doing all the work, and the rest of the teeth were just following along behind, which I guess would shorten the life of the blade? Anyway, Ian at Tuffsaws took a look at the photos of the welded join and kindly sent another straight out. It now cuts a treat!

One thing I struggle with is the fence - it moves as I tighten it, and trying to get it both square to the table and running parallel to the table is such a fiddle - I got it spot on vertical recently for a deeper cut, all fine til I slid the fence away from the blade when the far end lifted up in the air about an inch! So the support was square but too far down (low, relative to the surface of the table). Anyway, I read the thread about the Axminster fence upgrade and thought about getting the regular (£102) version as it sounds easier to fit (I don't have the skills with metal to be drilling and tapping etc...). Apart from that, the saw does its job just fine.

Many thanks

Chris

 

[Alexam]

Chris, Definatly touching something and should not get that sound if 'tuned' correctly. See the following, which may help

GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video on a tune up method that works well.:



His updated version also here:




The following video may help some owners with a Record BS400, but it is similar to most machines blade changes:



Blades can run and cut without any guides whatsoever as long as the machine is tuned correctly. This is how the blade should be running BEFORE the guides are brought into play on your machine, so that they can 'bump back' the blade should it wander, so please dont get guides near the blade before you know it is running clear and staying in the same place.




CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Videos:




The Flutter Test


Tuning a bandsaw is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own. Great Woodworking DVDs for woodworkers by woodworkers '.

Whenever you have put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-
....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).
That's the first priority before closing in guides and thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.
Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?
Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ?

Are you sure that the tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.

If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.
Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust will stick in the teeth gullet. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis.

Malcolm