Axi Router Table

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Vinny

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Gents

I was bought a axi router table for christmas and am just now getting it set up (new house swmbo with wallpaper fetish etc etc - you know how it is), all went swimmingly until I opened the little bag with the guide pin, allen grub screws and the 4 magnets in.

Guide pin - sorted, I can see how this is used

Grub Screws - sorted, levelling the supplied phenolic plate

Magnets - mmmmmmm are they just there so that you can wonder as to how something so small can be be so strong instead of trying to work out how to fix your router to the plate!

Any pointers on the use for the magnets would be gr8.

I knew I was getting the aforementioned table from the ma in law, so whilst visting her in Weymouth took a trip to the APTC where I picked up a Ryobi ERT 2100v router to use with the table (it was on offer) - this looks like its a good tool (am yet to use it) with some useful features all of which I can't see being used if its attached to the table. Would I be better getting something a bit more "basic" for the table ?

Any advice much appreciated

Vinny
 
Any pointers on the use for the magnets would be gr8.
Hi I dont have that table but do have the rutland one the magnets could be placed in recessed holes on the table then the plate placed on top held magnetically by the grub screws which in turn are used for levelling the plate
hope that makes sense?
 
Vinny":33h7wjdv said:
Would I be better getting something a bit more "basic" for the table ?

No that router will be OK in a table. The right sort of power and collet size. If you did want another router I'd get something smaller for hand work like the little Triton. Which will be easier to manoeuvre.
 
Those magnets are supposed to go underneath the grub screws. They will create a 'magnetic attraction' (it's not that strong; the router's own weight is enough to hold it still) but, most importantly, they'll stop the screws from causing wear and digging in to your MDF/chipboard surface over time. :wink:

If you find these screws loosen over time due to vibration then, you could try sealing them in place with a drop of thread-locking compound. It's worked alright for me - thanks to Steve M. for that tip! :)

As wizer says, the bigger (and more powerful) the router, the better really. Get another one for hand-held work. A small ¼" router would do for most work but a ½" router is better if you plan to cut lots of tenons and rebates, for example.
 
Right - all sorted now. thanks for your help. Router is attached to plate (a comedy of errors that will have to be revisited in the not too distant future)

One more question - is it always such a pita changing router bits and adjusting depth ?? I seem to be spending a lot of time on the floor swearing. Is it the done thing to lift the router with plate attached out of the table to change and adjust the cutter. Or am I missing a trick here ?
 
Vinny":4m0dzbc4 said:
....
One more question - is it always such a pita changing router bits and adjusting depth ?? .....

In a word, yes, unless you go for a router such as the Triton that was designed for table use and so has 'above-the-table' bit changing capability..or perhaps some of the router-lifts but I have no experience of the latter.
 
Get yourself a Triton or a Trend, both have fine adjusters and above the table bit change in certain models (the Trition have it in all I think only a few of the trends do)
 
Vinny":10sstr9k said:
Is it the done thing to lift the router with plate attached out of the table to change and adjust the cutter. Or am I missing a trick here ?

That's what I do, makes life a lot easier. If possible take the springs out, not sure how you do it on that router, but my router was 'fairly' easy to do and it makes adjustments easier.
 
i use a car scissor jack to raise my router up and down in the table, which is the same ryobi mentioned here. Whilst it may not be as glamourous as a router raiser or trend set up, i find that it works very well for me

regards

michael
 
I don't think the scissor jack idea will work unless the plate is fixed to the table as the jack will just push the plate and router out of its location when compressing the springs,

Nigel
 
Nigel's made a crucial point, with regards to how these plates are [that should probably read 'are not'] 'fixed' to the table.

If you use a thread-locking compound to secure the grub screws in their final position, you might find it is easier to remove the plate and router in one to change cutters and alter the height. That way, your spanner will have greater access to the collet.
 

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