Ash Wall Mounted Display Cabinet - WIP

[Orcamesh]

OK, here goes, I will try to update from time to time. The Sketchup plan (basic outline) is below...

Then I have some planks of rough sawn Ash (this is just some of it taking refuge in the spare room!) and a small pile of "first phase" planed Ash produced by my trusty old Scheppach P/T and kept in stick over the winter with some old text books (I knew those books would be useful for something one day!! ).

The planed Ash is still around 28mm thick and will be planed closer to the final 20mm thickness soon.

The shelves will be glass as this is for displaying models. I may install a light inside (tbd?).

I plan to thru dovetail the corner joints of the carcase, install a frame & panel back (as discussed in Eoin's thread), everything will be solid ash except for shelves and door panels (glass). All in all just trying to keep things as simple as possible.

Tune in later on when some more interesting progress is made...

I am currently resharpening my planer blades, then I'll be able to make the final boards. Family & work life is very busy so workshop hours are sometimes limited, so please bare with me!

Thanks for looking
Steve

 

[eoinsgaff]

Steve,

so we're going to have 'a build off' so. Ha ha, only kiddin'. I'm looking forward to your build.

Eoin

 

[Orcamesh]

Steve,

so we're going to have 'a build off' so. Ha ha, only kiddin'. I'm looking forward to your build.

Eoin

Yep! :lol:

But

(a) you are way ahead of me :evil:
(b) you have mastered the art of hand planes :evil:
(c) looks like you have much more experience than I !!!

 

[woodbloke]

For future ref, when timber is 'in stick' it's important that the stickers are directly over the top of one another, 'specially if they're gong to be left for a long time. As you've shown it in the pic, it doesn't lool like they're going to be there for long. Also, don't forget to put sticks under the very lowest plank...the one on the floor! Remember, always do the same thing to each side of the board so if one side is against the carpet... - Rob

 

[Orcamesh]

For future ref, when timber is 'in stick' it's important that the stickers are directly over the top of one another, 'specially if they're gong to be left for a long time. As you've shown it in the pic, it doesn't lool like they're going to be there for long. Also, don't forget to put sticks under the very lowest plank...the one on the floor! Remember, always do the same thing to each side of the board so if one side is against the carpet... - Rob

OK thanks Rob. Although the stickers are not all directly over one another where possible I tried to align them as close to one another as possible and if not directly over they were not too far away, although I agree this setup was less than perfect. The bottom board is a rough sawn piece and is not one of the boards for the job and was used to lift the planed boards off the carpet. Anyway, I will make sure future sticks are as you suggest...

thanks
Steve

 

[Orcamesh]

UPDATE :

Well no project update available at the mo as my PT is in middle of a major maintenance job! It seems the in & out feed tables were knocked after moving house and for whatever reason I hadn't noticed that they had moved as all my planed timber was coming out ok. Maybe I just pushed them through a section of the blade which was well set relative to the outfeed table. I will never know now. Anyhow, now I have the annoying job of resetting the tables, then reinstalling my newly sharpened blades.

Hopefully, will get back on task soon...

Steve

 

[Orcamesh]

OK, now the P/T is now behaving reasonably well (although maybe needs some minor blade setting to rid a smallish snipe which seems to be determined to stay), I have processed some more Ash plus the original 4 boards which are intended for the top, bottom and sides of the cabinet. these newly planed boards are for the back which will be a frame and panel (x2) construction with central muntin and rebated into the rear face of the cabinet, and for the door parts (rails & stiles) which will be frames for holding the glass fronts.

The boards are still not quite final thickness, although they are now very close, as I am allowing them to acclimatise a bit further in the house now.

Some photos of some of the stages...

Hopefully I will be able to get on with some jointing soon...

Have a good weekend & thanks for looking!
Steve

 

[Orcamesh]

OK, further update with an issue which I might need someone's input on...

I started to plane by hand the machined boards with difficult grain (first). I managed to improve the first board, see below. But my mouth adjustment knob seems to have come apart from its brass ferrule. I believe these 2 parts should be permanently glued together? Anyway at the moment they are apart as you can see in below photos.

Can anyone shine any light on this?

thanks
Steve

PS. I have (as you may have noticed) changed my username to match my domain name. The ancient "Hawk Moth" name has gone mainly because I thought it best to keep things simple from here on in!! :wink:

 

[Orcamesh]

Sorry, forgot to mention it is a Lie Nielsen Low Angle Smoothing plane, just in case you hadn't recognised it!

 

[Benchwayze]

Well now!
I was going to buy one of those LA Smoothers. Looks like it needs Epoxy or two holes on the metal, c/sunk and suitable steel screws put in place!
I am sure LN would like to know about this mind.

John

 

[Orcamesh]

Well now!
I was going to buy one of those LA Smoothers. Looks like it needs Epoxy or two holes on the metal, c/sunk and suitable steel screws put in place!
I am sure LN would like to know about this mind.

John

Hi John

What are you waiting for??!!! :lol:

This small problem aside, this is without doubt my best hand plane (so far) and performance wise when setup it is amazing, espsecially when dealing with this type of crazy grain.

I raised the problem in the Hand Tool section so have already got lots of advice, but thanks anyway. It certainly looks like it was glued at one point but I think that the reason why the mouth is locked is unrelated to this. The surface of the actual plane (the casting) which lies underneath the brass lever part has lots of bobbles from the casting process. It is these which seem to be digging into the brass lever part and preventing it from moving which in turn prevents the mouth from moving. I have sorted this now and it is fine.

I might get back to the project soon if I can bat off all the family activities, but looks like Easter is going to get in the way too this weekend! Ho, hum!

cheers
Steve

 

[Benchwayze]

Well now!
I was going to buy one of those LA Smoothers. Looks like it needs Epoxy or two holes on the metal, c/sunk and suitable steel screws put in place!
I am sure LN would like to know about this mind.

John

Hi John

What are you waiting for??!!! :lol:

This small problem aside, this is without doubt my best hand plane (so far) and performance wise when setup it is amazing, espsecially when dealing with this type of crazy grain.

I raised the problem in the Hand Tool section so have already got lots of advice, but thanks anyway. It certainly looks like it was glued at one point but I think that the reason why the mouth is locked is unrelated to this. The surface of the actual plane (the casting) which lies underneath the brass lever part has lots of bobbles from the casting process. It is these which seem to be digging into the brass lever part and preventing it from moving which in turn prevents the mouth from moving. I have sorted this now and it is fine.

I might get back to the project soon if I can bat off all the family activities, but looks like Easter is going to get in the way too this weekend! Ho, hum!

cheers
Steve

Waiting for the money, and for SWIMBO radar to fail!

:lol: :lol: :lol:
Regards
John

 

[Orcamesh]

Hi folks

Not much progress last week or so due to "other jobs" needing doing round the house! This weekend I have to go and help my Dad build his deck, so this will delay me on this project a bit more.

Anyhow, here are a couple of items of hardware which I bought from Isaac Lord a while back, I am still mulling over whether to use the magnetic catches on the doors, but I think the brass hinges seem very nice.

Hope you all have a great Easter Weekend!
Steve

 

[woodbloke]

The hinges look decent quality, but I've never liked those magnetic door catches...to me they look 'planted' (which they are) and far too bulky. I always use the Krenovian style sprung loaded catches now that are recessed into the wood...easy enough to make with some hard, dense grained wood (ebony or similar is good) - Rob

 

[Orcamesh]

Yes they are Rob, they have "WP" inscribed on them, not sure who makes them. As far as I am aware they are solid brass.

As for the catches, I agree, which is why I said I am still mulling over whether to use them or not. My initial thoughts are not to use them, as you rightly say they do look 'planted' and I think they also just look too bulky and not elegant at all.

As for your Krenovian style sprung loaded catches, I am not familiar with these. I am familiar with James Krenov but have yet to buy his book. Do you have any examples of these and how to make them?

thanks
Steve

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Yes they are Rob, they have "WP" inscribed on them, not sure who makes them. As far as I am aware they are solid brass.

As for the catches, I agree, which is why I said I am still mulling over whether to use them or not. My initial thoughts are not to use them, as you rightly say they do look 'planted' and I think they also just look too bulky and not elegant at all.

As for your Krenovian style sprung loaded catches, I am not familiar with these. I am familiar with James Krenov but have yet to buy his book. Do you have any examples of these and how to make them?

thanks
Steve

I'm also interested in these catches you describe. Any more info on these would be much appreciated.

Cheers _Dan.

 

[Orcamesh]

Yes they are Rob, they have "WP" inscribed on them, not sure who makes them. As far as I am aware they are solid brass.

As for the catches, I agree, which is why I said I am still mulling over whether to use them or not. My initial thoughts are not to use them, as you rightly say they do look 'planted' and I think they also just look too bulky and not elegant at all.

As for your Krenovian style sprung loaded catches, I am not familiar with these. I am familiar with James Krenov but have yet to buy his book. Do you have any examples of these and how to make them?

thanks
Steve

I'm also interested in these catches you describe. Any more info on these would be much appreciated.

Cheers _Dan.

Hi Rob

Your Inghamish box looks lovely, I doubt I am able to produce something of this quality. Beautiful, with or without the brass feet.

As for your mentioning of Krenovian style catches, both Dan and I would love to see what you mean by this.

Are you able to share anything with us so we can see what you mean?

thanks
Steve

 

[Orcamesh]

Well there has not been as much progress as I would like but this is where I am at now.

I have got the 4 cabinet boards (sides, top & bottom) to final dimension, and the other boards are about to be ripped to provide the rails and stiles for the doors and the back parts (frame & panels).

I have been learning David Charlesworth's hand plane blade sharpening technique and setting it up in the workshop. See photo below. Here you can see the holding device I made which has a tapered locking face. This wedges the Japanese waterstone in place against a piece of ply held in the bench vice. This tapered face is screwed into the bench top into some M8 captive inserts. The "old dust extractor bag" used to keep the water off the bench & vice. It seems to work well.

You can also see in another photo a board which has been hand planed and a mass of shavings from planing the other boards. It seemed to go on for ever! :shock:

I don't think my hand planing techniques are quite mastered, I think this will take me years to gain on a part-time basis. But I keep learning every time I tackle something.

The final photo shows the four cabinet board just lined up to assess the size of the thing, hopefully there will be more progress in coming weeks...

cheers
Steve

 

[woodbloke]

As for your mentioning of Krenovian style catches, both Dan and I would love to see what you mean by this.

Are you able to share anything with us so we can see what you mean?

thanks
Steve

I'm unabable to load pics at the moment, but I'll see if I can sort something out tonight. Briefly, it's a small oblong of hard timber (I use ebony) around 40x12x6mm which is set in flush with the surface. At one end is a small brass c/s screw that holds the thing in place. At the other (and on the underside) is a spring from a biro which forces the topside of the insert against the door...the screw regulates the amount of pressure exerted by the insert. They're easy enough to make and look much better than a planted magnetic catch.
Pics tonite if I can dig them out of Pbucket and then you'll see what they look like - Rob

 

[Orcamesh]

As for your mentioning of Krenovian style catches, both Dan and I would love to see what you mean by this.

Are you able to share anything with us so we can see what you mean?

thanks
Steve

I'm unabable to load pics at the moment, but I'll see if I can sort something out tonight. Briefly, it's a small oblong of hard timber (I use ebony) around 40x12x6mm which is set in flush with the surface. At one end is a small brass c/s screw that holds the thing in place. At the other (and on the underside) is a spring from a biro which forces the topside of the insert against the door...the screw regulates the amount of pressure exerted by the insert. They're easy enough to make and look much better than a planted magnetic catch.
Pics tonite if I can dig them out of Pbucket and then you'll see what they look like - Rob

OK, thanks Rob. A picture always says a thousand words (even though your description above is pretty good)!! :wink:

Now to source some ebony....