anybody made a kindle docking station?

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Hi bob,

After much pondering, I think as you are not going to be using them while they're charging then essentially a rack type product will best suit your needs.
Imagine a toast rack where you slide the products in from the open front (instead of top) and each product has its own slit with slot for its charging cable to come through.

This would probably be the most efficient use of space providing you don't want to use them while they're charging.
 
Adam, yes, I had got as far as a magazine rack, A two slot for the kindles and a shelf on the front for the phones, and screwed onto the side of a kitchen cupboard. But this 4 charger thing makes anything I can think of almost as bulky as they are laying around loose.

I'm looking at putting 4 x 13 amp sockets on the underside of a wall cupboard, fed from a single wall socket. As it will only ever be chargers plugged in, theres no power concerns. But then theres the possibilty of the chargers working themselves loose if they are upside down.

Amazing how such a simple idea can be such a headache to make.
Meanwhile,,, I'm still thinking.
 
Andy, i need to investigate that. the kindles are very picky about chargers, obviously so you have to buy the amazon ones.
Cyprus has UK electrics in all respects, no adapters of any kind required.

Slight change of topic, I have admitted defeat on the hand planes. After all that work getting the blades sharp, I've found that my arthritic thumbs just cant take the minor shocks as the plane removes wood. Theres a makita electric planer in my very near future.
 
I am realising how far behind the times I'm slipping, sitting in the sun sipping my vodka! (its been a long summer this year, still 35c every day, the garage is a tad warm, even with both ends open, so work hasnt progressed much since may)
I havent seen the usb nokia leads before. Thats a real incentive to get going on the project.
I just have a few more "honey do's" before I can get back to my workshop and make a start.
 
Interesting. i need mine vertical on the wall, its work surface space that I need.

Thanks for the link, I may well use the basic design.
 
sunnybob":3kou27iv said:
I have admitted defeat on the hand planes. After all that work getting the blades sharp, I've found that my arthritic thumbs just cant take the minor shocks as the plane removes wood. Theres a makita electric planer in my very near future.

I can save you some money here Bob. An electric plane is money down the drain for your purposes,

-Despite the misleading name power planes are not powered versions of hand planes, they're completely different tools that do completely different jobs.
-They can't be set anywhere near as finely as a hand plane, the finest cut a power plane can make is at least ten times coarser than a hand plane, probably twenty or thirty times.
-They're hard work to hold, if you struggle with a hand plane there's no way you can manage a power plane, which besides the much greater weight twists and bucks in your hands.
-Power planes are prone to tear out, and in any event always need masses of very heavy sanding to make the surface ready for finishing. Both issues due to the "scooping/scalloping" action of the blade.
-A power plane is useless for shooting, or trimming end grain, or all the other important jobs a hand plane can be used for

I've seen a few hobbyists hit the wall with hand planes and conclude a power plane is the solution. It's not and never will be.

You're faced with a few choices. Cut your losses and get a more arthritis friendly hobby than woodwork. Go the sheet goods only route. Persevere with hand planes until you get one smallish smoothing plane to function properly so that you don't suffer from the "minor shocks" you talk about.

Good luck
 
custard, youre my devils advocate.
i actually want to achieve things with wood, and am constantly looking for a way to achieve it. I thought I had it sorted with the jet sharpener and truly sharp irons, but it wasnt to be. After 5 minutes of hand planing, my hands hurt for the rest of the day.

Sadly, Cyprus has no finished wood available. I just bought a lump of mahogany from one yard, about 90cm x 15cm x 25mm rough sawn. That yard had only a mitre saw. So I took the wood to my favourite yard that has a giant bandsaw. i asked him to cut 9mm planks. The board is now scrap. His best cut started at 9mm and finished at 4mm. with several different measures in between.

I've said it before, I dont give in easy. Its not over yet.
But its definitely uphill.
 
sunnybob":20inb74n said:
custard, youre my devils advocate.
i actually want to achieve things with wood, and am constantly looking for a way to achieve it. I thought I had it sorted with the jet sharpener and truly sharp irons, but it wasnt to be. After 5 minutes of hand planing, my hands hurt for the rest of the day.

Sadly, Cyprus has no finished wood available. I just bought a lump of mahogany from one yard, about 90cm x 15cm x 25mm rough sawn. That yard had only a mitre saw. So I took the wood to my favourite yard that has a giant bandsaw. i asked him to cut 9mm planks. The board is now scrap. His best cut started at 9mm and finished at 4mm. with several different measures in between.

I've said it before, I dont give in easy. Its not over yet.
But its definitely uphill.

You're actually very typical of many newcomers to woodworking, so your experiences are widely relevant.

-You don't need many tools, genuinely you only need a very few, but you absolutely need to know how to sharpen and set up each and every one of them. One bench plane, a block plane, a shoulder plane, 3 or 4 chisels, a hard point disposable saw, a second hand spokeshave, some really accurate marking and measuring tools, a sharpening kit, and you're up and running. I'd toss in a hand router plane and a few other knick knacks, but it really isn't that much.
-Getting a couple of old woodies from a boot sale isn't the best start. You might drop lucky, but more likely you'll invest hours of drudgery to achieve mediocre results. The right old woody in the right hands can deliver stunning performance, but there's a mountain to climb before the beginner can get to that position. A Stanley 04 or 05 is a better shortcut, a modern Bevel Up Jack is better still if you've got the money and a powered method of grinding those thick blades.
-Getting frustrated with tools and substituting power for hand work just swaps one set of problems for another. Good hand tools are affordable (just) and hold their value, good machinery requires very deep pockets while cheap tat is worthless if you abandon woodworking and try to re-sell it. Most machinery comes with awful blades, fences, and accessories, so there's often lots of hidden costs. Cheap power tools and machinery are basically expensive traps for inexperienced hobbyists.
-Training is never a waste of money. Tricky in your circumstances I know. The internet can help, but there's so much conflicting information, and know-nothing self publicists masquerading as experienced men, that you need to tread carefully. You also need one core "guide" to provide consistency and arbitrate all the conflicting information. I haven't spent much time looking but I don't think there are many single source providers of free and comprehensive training. I get the impression this chap Paul Sellers is your best bet. I've looked at a few of his videos, sure I'd quibble with a few issues here and there, but there's little substantial to object to and much to admire. Probably my main criticism is that he seems locked into a 1970's design mentality, but if you don't mind fitting quartz clock movements into knotty pine boxes then he's your man! Seriously, he might make things that were last seen in "On The Buses" or "The Good Life", but he makes them bloody well and he shows you step by step how to use a well described and modest tool kit to achieve the same results.
-Woodworking is basically a test of character. Truly, that's all it is. At times you'll be left despairing, impatient, frustrated, angry, and confused. Making things in wood is in essence a training programme to get yourself beyond those emotions and become methodical, rigorous, patient, disciplined, analytical, focused, and calm.

Enjoy the journey and good luck!
 
custard":q909j4hq said:
-Getting frustrated with tools and substituting power for hand work just swaps one set of problems for another. Good hand tools are affordable (just) and hold their value, good machinery requires very deep pockets while cheap tat is worthless if you abandon woodworking and try to re-sell it. Most machinery comes with awful blades, fences, and accessories, so there's often lots of hidden costs. Cheap power tools and machinery are basically expensive traps for inexperienced hobbyists.

This holds true if you buy new made in china hobbyist grade stuff. If you buy used quality you can keep costs down and perhaps even sell at a slight profit. It will require you to become something of your own technician though. But the results are worth it for me.

It also depends on what you want to accomplish, I for instance don't want to make small trinkets, jewelry boxes or clocks or stuff like that. I want to be able to design and manufacture larger more, well useful things I need that would cost a lot to buy, like a table, or a bed or dresser, bigger more advanced stuff. Also building my own woodworking machines.

I use handtools though, not as primary tools but as compliments to my powertools. Sometimes they allow you to get the job done faster, sometimes only a handplane will be able to fit in and take off a few shavings when something I fitted, well didn't.

Sharpening is definitely a priority though. Given his arthritis I dunno if manual sharpening is the way to go.
 
DennisCA":36tz0kxo said:
It will require you to become something of your own technician though.

Not a little thing that Dennis is it. For most of the beginning hobbyists I've met that's a deal breaker.

I think it's also worth reflecting on your "bigger projects" and "saving money" comments too.

Firstly, you almost never save money with hobby woodworking. Ikea sell furniture cheaper than the hobbyist can source the raw materials. Plenty of people want to get into woodworking, but feel they need an excuse or a justification. Saving money is a very poor reason because the numbers won't add up. If you want to work wood as a hobby then do it for its own sake.

Secondly, big projects are a disaster for the beginner. I know someone who built a 40 foot ketch in their 45 foot back garden and sailed it across the Atlantic. I know this because it was in the newspaper. But here's the thing, it was in the newspaper because it was so incredibly unusual! We don't hear about all the hundreds of foolish dreamers that commence building a 40 foot ketch in their 45 foot gardens, but then abandon the project when their wives leave them, or they slip a disc, or they run out money, or they just get bored and move on to their next madcap obsession. I'm an experienced, full-time furniture maker with excellent facilities, but I turn down plenty of commissions because they're just too big for a one man workshop. I won't make waney edged, eight seater dining tables for example, even though I could sell plenty of them, because they're too heavy for me to move around and process safely.

Hobbyist woodworkers don't have enough confidence in their abilities to stick with it beyond 40 or 50 hour projects, most can't go more than 10 or 12 hours without looking for some silly shortcut that will ruin the piece. That's why I'm so admiring of Andy T and his chest of drawers, or Derek Cohen and his projects. But they're both extremely unusual hobbyists. Most people should just recognise that unless they see fairly quick results they'll not see it to completion. Small projects that don't need a huge amount of space, big machines or lots of timber; but still serve to develop skills and confidence, that's the smarter route.
 
Actually looking at what i made and what something equivalent would cost (IKEA is not that cheap either, and crappier in quality) I have made some progress in recouping partially my investment. I figured I would be spending 10-20 years but I think I might break even as soon as next summer if my pergola project is done then. I spent less on all my tools than someone would at a single modern quality tool.

Perhaps most people break off at the becoming your own technician stage, I didn't and it paid off. I don't know where sunnybob falls either on this spectrum, but I am telling him the option is there at least.

And if you do get into power tools, older is better. Buy new cheap china junk and your investment is gone, you can't recoup losses there if you decide to get out. Buying used is the only real way to avoid that, if you get into power tools.
 
well, I dont know what happened, but my reply of about 2 hours ago hasnt shown up here, so I'll try again.

Most of you are professional woodworkers, and are always striving to do better. I, on the other hand, have only been around wood as a hobby for one year, and have a completely different outlook.
Its a hobby, and thats something to pass the time with. I've had a years entertainment from it so far, and caused quite a stir here a few times as well. I really appreciate all your help and suggestions, but remember, to me, its just a hobby. I dont have to think about resale value on equipment. My total expenditure so far is barely over a grand. Average that out over 52 weeks, its £20 a week. Any smoker here will spend that and more. Next year my weekly average will halve due to running out of tools to buy. A tenner a week for a hobby? great value.

I will keep on trying, and I will keep on asking stupid questions, hopefully you will keep on answering most of them.

My kindle station has attained level 1. I have roughly cut out the pieces of beech. Just waiting for a warranty replacement part for my charnwood belt sander now. (I know, I know, if I had spent a grand on a belt sander alone it wouldnt have broken) (maybe)

Next week hopefully it will reach level 2..
 
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