Aluminium Primer help

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Doug71

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Hi guys, after a bit of advice please.

I often use aluminium primer on external joinery but find it tricky to put on, it really drags and needs brushing out loads. Don't know if I am putting it on too thick or too thin? I generally use a synthetic bristle brush, would natural bristle make much difference?

Also I read that you should not sand it as this exposes the aluminium particles and the undercoat won't stick, is that true?

Any help appreciated.

Doug
 
SYSTEMS INFORMATION
STIR THOROUGHLY BEFORE USE. After suitable
surface preparation apply 1 or 2 coats of Dulux
Trade Aluminium Wood Primer. Apply 2 coats of
Dulux Trade Aluminium Wood Primer over highly
resinous wood or when using over aged creosote
or bitumen coated surfaces. Allow up to 24 hours
between coats (48 hours on aged creosote or
bitumen coated surfaces). Finish with an
appropriate Dulux Trade paint system.
APPLICATION METHOD
Brush only.
As with all solvent based paints (according to
British Standard BS 6150), do not use in
temperatures below 5°C.
Practical Coverage
A guide to the practical coverage which can be
achieved under normal conditions is up to 17m² per
litre.
Thinning
Thinning is not required.
Spray Recommendations
For Health and Safety reasons related to all
solvent-based paints, spray application is not
recommended.
Drying Times
Single coat at standard thickness:
Touch Dry: 3-4 hours.
Recoat: 16-24 hours.
 
phil.p":1g91s5qm said:
I don't know which brand you are using, but Dulux usually goes on like water. I would think if it drags that much it needs thinning.
The dulux stuff is first class- only drags a bit when it's an old tin. Stirring it to a good consistency to start with is another matter. In the past I could take anywhere between 10-20 minutes trying to get it mixed evenly. Now I get them to chuck it in the paint mixer machine for 60 seconds- what a difference !!!!!!!

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
One more thing, I got a little frustrated having to give the dulux a second coat. I tried a couple different brands, flag and something else- now that was pure garbage in comparison. Before thoroughly stirring-
d67d211487a1d975d21d9c281e4b2a8c.jpg

After stirring
fe0280f78d4f7fda1ac87fff0887b93f.jpg

The other brands I tried didn't really need denibbing between coats, the finish was so rough it almost needed sanding back and starting again !
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
If it's a part used tin, it could be that it wasn't mixed properly at first. If you use the thinner top portion, the settled lower portion will be relatively more viscous. A little thinner will help, but be sparing. Add it from the cap (pour some thinners into the cap of the thinner can and then add from the can to the paint) to prevent adding too much.
 
ColeyS1":2wj52rnc said:
phil.p":2wj52rnc said:
I don't know which brand you are using, but Dulux usually goes on like water. I would think if it drags that much it needs thinning.
The dulux stuff is first class- only drags a bit when it's an old tin. Stirring it to a good consistency to start with is another matter. In the past I could take anywhere between 10-20 minutes trying to get it mixed evenly. Now I get them to chuck it in the paint mixer machine for 60 seconds- what a difference !!!!!!!

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

That apparently is unwise - it can explode.

I punctured a couple of spent paint aerosols and removed the marbles to put in the ali primer tin, it makes it much easier to mix. A couple of nuts would do much the same.
 
I hadn't heard that before. They seem happy to do it, just as well it's not my mixing machine :lol:

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Paint tins are best stored upside down. The paint seals the rim of the can preventing air getting in and curing the paint, and any pigment that settles will be on the lid and can more easily be reincorporated into the binder.
 
thick_mike":2888peu6 said:
Paint tins are best stored upside down. The paint seals the rim of the can preventing air getting in and curing the paint, and any pigment that settles will be on the lid and can more easily be reincorporated into the binder.
This one baffled me a bit
9c43abd39522630ed1c3e215c0f32d5a.jpg

I can only think that the bottom must have rusted through- warm dry workshop :?
 
ColeyS1":1y2vcs9t said:
thick_mike":1y2vcs9t said:
Paint tins are best stored upside down. The paint seals the rim of the can preventing air getting in and curing the paint, and any pigment that settles will be on the lid and can more easily be reincorporated into the binder.
This one baffled me a bit
9c43abd39522630ed1c3e215c0f32d5a.jpg

I can only think that the bottom must have rusted through- warm dry workshop :?

Faulty can by the looks of it.
 
Last year I used some Weathershield oil based masonry paint that I'd had since 2002 - it took mechanical stirring with a metal hook to make it usable, bit it was fine. It was stored upside down - and I'd sprayed the top and bottom of the tins with spray grease when I put them away.
 
It is Dulux primer and it has been hanging around for a while as some suggested so that could be the problem, also it probably was never stirred properly when new so I might have used the thinner stuff from the top leaving the gunge at the bottom.

Some thinners (quite a bit) and lots of stirring has made it more usable but think I will be buying another tin.

Thanks everybody for all the advice, really helpful as always.

Doug
 
12" length of straight 8mm copper plumbing pipe; two 2" M4 bolts or machine screws, with nuts. Drill two holes diametrically in pipe at one end.

Apply bolts to make stirring arms.

Apply completed stirrer to battery drill. Only start drill when stirrer is at the bottom of the tin.

Had one like that (made from a bit of old TV aerial) that's been brilliant for years. In my experience, aluminium paint thins really well with normal thinners, if necessary. I don't use a lot as it covers well, so often need to "revitalize a tin that's been sitting around for ages. Wonderful stuff, and eliminates the need for knotting too.
 
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