AES
Established Member
Believe me, I know just what you mean mate!
Airbrushing Kits for turned work
- Thread starter Lonsdale73
- Start date
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Lonsdale73
Established Member
Exec decision made, going with the one I originally linked to for its compact size, quietness and less pippering about. Thanks all for your advice - I will be back for more.
AES
Established Member
Good luck with that.
Just as a matter of my own interest, please not only let us know how you get on, but particularly for my own "interest" let us know what medium ("paint") you end up using please.
Just as a matter of my own interest, please not only let us know how you get on, but particularly for my own "interest" let us know what medium ("paint") you end up using please.
Lonsdale73
Established Member
Will do. Can an airbrush be of variable 'calibre'? That is, I see some described as 0.2/0.3/0.5 and they look to come with correspondingly sized nedles and nozzles whereas some are denoted as 0.2 or 0.3 etc. Are the former something of a compromise? Are the latter fixed, like a prime lens in photography terms, but of better quality for it? Or can one labelled as 0.2 be used as 0.5 by simply buying a suitably sized needle and nozzle?
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AES
Established Member
@Lonsdale73:
Sorry for delay, I was sorting out my Badger Manuals for scanning.
Yes, Droogs is quite right, Needles and nozzles are changeable on both single and double action airbrushes. Attached below are scans of the parts breakdowns for both my Badger 350 (single action) and my Badger 150XP (double action) brushes. Being Badger there MAY be some differences in naming parts to the names used in your brush, (e.g. Badger talks about "Paint Tips" rather than nozzles) and there may be other differences to your new brushes too, but the principles will be the same I'm sure.
Careful study of both the below should clarify much quicker than my words can:
Badger 350 (single action).
Badger 150 (double action - like yours).
Also give me half an hour and I'll scan and upload the Badger general painting instructions, which contain quite good diagrams of exercises which I'd strongly recommend you try a bit before starting on "proper" work. Well worth the time spent, and you can do it cheaply using plain paper and any ole ink (like Indian, fountain pen, water colour, etc).
I'll add that as a .pdf file as a P.S. to this post after scanning so that you can print it out later if you want to.
AND, BTW, if not included in your kit it's well worth buying a specialised airbrush cleaning kit (only a few quid) and though I deal with someone in the US for Badger stuff I see above that someone has given details of an airbrush specialist in UK. ALSO when at the chemist or supermarket keep your eyes open for dental hygiene products like VERY fine and soft brush type toothpick (in plastic). Very useful.
HTH
Edit for P.S.
Here's the exercises, etc, I promised above. Not the best images, sorry (the books are "100s of yonks old") but "Enjoy" (as they say)!!
Cheers
NOTE: Further edit for a P.S. After scanning I saw how bad the Airbrush Exercises .pdf was, so I've now replaced the original with a newer - hopefully clearer - file. It's now called "AirBr Exercises-2.pdf". Hope it's a bit better now.
Cheers
Sorry for delay, I was sorting out my Badger Manuals for scanning.
Yes, Droogs is quite right, Needles and nozzles are changeable on both single and double action airbrushes. Attached below are scans of the parts breakdowns for both my Badger 350 (single action) and my Badger 150XP (double action) brushes. Being Badger there MAY be some differences in naming parts to the names used in your brush, (e.g. Badger talks about "Paint Tips" rather than nozzles) and there may be other differences to your new brushes too, but the principles will be the same I'm sure.
Careful study of both the below should clarify much quicker than my words can:
Badger 350 (single action).
Badger 150 (double action - like yours).
Also give me half an hour and I'll scan and upload the Badger general painting instructions, which contain quite good diagrams of exercises which I'd strongly recommend you try a bit before starting on "proper" work. Well worth the time spent, and you can do it cheaply using plain paper and any ole ink (like Indian, fountain pen, water colour, etc).
I'll add that as a .pdf file as a P.S. to this post after scanning so that you can print it out later if you want to.
AND, BTW, if not included in your kit it's well worth buying a specialised airbrush cleaning kit (only a few quid) and though I deal with someone in the US for Badger stuff I see above that someone has given details of an airbrush specialist in UK. ALSO when at the chemist or supermarket keep your eyes open for dental hygiene products like VERY fine and soft brush type toothpick (in plastic). Very useful.
HTH
Edit for P.S.
Here's the exercises, etc, I promised above. Not the best images, sorry (the books are "100s of yonks old") but "Enjoy" (as they say)!!
Cheers
NOTE: Further edit for a P.S. After scanning I saw how bad the Airbrush Exercises .pdf was, so I've now replaced the original with a newer - hopefully clearer - file. It's now called "AirBr Exercises-2.pdf". Hope it's a bit better now.
Cheers
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Glynne
Established Member
Probably a bit late to the party but I bought a kit from Everything Airbrush (TC-802) just before Xmas specifically to paint turned items.
I rang the company and they were really helpful with advise in terms of compressors, brushes and paints.
Thanks to AES for the exercises, I need to practice!
I rang the company and they were really helpful with advise in terms of compressors, brushes and paints.
Thanks to AES for the exercises, I need to practice!
Lonsdale73
Established Member
pe2dave
Established Member
Using a small 25cu ft compressor, with the airbrush, it charges the tank, then tops it up 20 min later? I.e. the noise is hardly
an issue. I agree about needing a regulator - adjust the pressure to the tool you're using. Check if included / extra?
Another consideration, a ?? drying ?? / filter thingy on the output side? @AES - what's it called please?
Keeps muck out of the brush? Worthwhile if using largely for an airbrush I'd think?
an issue. I agree about needing a regulator - adjust the pressure to the tool you're using. Check if included / extra?
Another consideration, a ?? drying ?? / filter thingy on the output side? @AES - what's it called please?
Keeps muck out of the brush? Worthwhile if using largely for an airbrush I'd think?
Lonsdale73
Established Member
Would I be right in thinking that's just the brush? Wonder what price they'll be 37 years hence? Noth that I'll be here to report back.
AES
Established Member
Pressure/tank capacity:
Yeah, exactly correct, the pressure setting on your compressor is, in effect, setting an auto switch which senses the pressure in your tank. When the switch detects that your pre-set pressure has been reached it will automatically shut down the motor that drives the compressor. Just as you say, the motor will only start up again when the detector senses that the pressure in the tank has again fallen below the pressure you pre-set. If your tank hols 25 cu ft and lasts for 20 mins before the motor starts up again, then all other things being equal (i.e. you making the same demands), then if you increased the size of your tank to, say, 250 cu ft, then the motor would run only every 200 mins (i.e. 10 times the tank size equals 10 times the run time). BUT that only holds true as long as you keep using the same tools in much the same way.
As someone up above has already said though, IF you need to start using high-demand industrial tools then you'll need a compressor with a much greater capacity - NOT tank capacity note, but ability to deliver "X" cu ft per min, rather than your present compressor (which is probably only half (or a quarter) of X cu ft per min).
As to the noise, well it depends. Yours may well only run every 20 mins, but if it's a loud compressor (like mine, which is VERY loud) and it's parked right next to your new born's cot when she's having her afternoon sleep, then I suggest you won't be very popular with the household authorities! So you put it in the garage (like mine); or build a noise-reducing box (search the net, loads of ideas); or increase the size of the tank (above); or buy a quiet one (VERY expensive); or use a small "silent" compressor indoors and only use the garage one at times when no one else will be bothered.
Pressure Regulator/Moisture Trap:
Well my Badger stuff calls it a moisture trap and the other thing a pressure regulator. They can be bought singly, or as a combined (single) unit - much more convenient.
BTW, there shouldn't be any "carp" in the air coming out of a compressor (it is, by it's very nature sealed, apart from the air intake which should have a built-in filter).
But the very action of compressing air warms/heats the air up, and subject to ambient temps, when that warmed air comes into contact with a colder surface, the moisture that must be present to a certain extent (warmer air holds more moisture than colder air), then that moisture will "condense out". If there's nowhere else for it to go (like a moisture trap) then you CAN get "big" (in relation to the size of the "paint drops you've just been/are spraying), water drops depositing themselves at random all over your "painted" surface before it's dried. Even if you're "only" using a water-based paint, the whole idea of airbrushing (or any other "paint" spraying come to that) is to be able to deposit a nice EVEN coating of colour over your chosen item. "Big" blobs of water suddenly appearing over your nicely even acrylic paint surface will NOT improve its appearance. DAMHIKT!!!
HTH
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Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
yep, when I first got mine I had to use a car tire to power it that my dad would pump up at the garage once a week only, otherwise I had to use a foot pump on it. that was a pain in the bum. A compressor was a pipe dream
AES
Established Member
@Droogs:
I presume that's a UK price for the Badger? It may not help you but now you're no longer in the EU (NO comment!) then suggest you try:
MerriArtist.com
421 NE 3rd Street
McMinnville
OR 97128
E-mail is just "info at" followed by the .com company name above.
I found them quick, v helpful, and with sensible prices (I was buying spares not a complete brush though) and shipping charges were sensible too I thought. Usual disclaimers.
HTH mate.
I presume that's a UK price for the Badger? It may not help you but now you're no longer in the EU (NO comment!) then suggest you try:
MerriArtist.com
421 NE 3rd Street
McMinnville
OR 97128
E-mail is just "info at" followed by the .com company name above.
I found them quick, v helpful, and with sensible prices (I was buying spares not a complete brush though) and shipping charges were sensible too I thought. Usual disclaimers.
HTH mate.
AES
Established Member
Droogs: Just seen your last. Yup me exactly the same. "VERY" (expletive deleted) hard work keeping that up pressure/quantity. (I've still got the tyre adaptor if you want it)!!!!!!! Then I went to an aerosol air can. But they cost a FORTUNE! 
Cheers
Cheers
AES
Established Member
Please Note:
If anyone is interested in my airbrush exercises .pdf file (post #26 above) I've replaced that file with a newly scanned version which I HOPE will be a bit more readable/better to print out. It's called "AirBr Exercises-2.pdf" and is in the same place that I posted the original.
If anyone is interested in my airbrush exercises .pdf file (post #26 above) I've replaced that file with a newly scanned version which I HOPE will be a bit more readable/better to print out. It's called "AirBr Exercises-2.pdf" and is in the same place that I posted the original.
AES
Established Member
@pe2dave :
I don't want to teach granny to suck eggs, but as a follow on to my lengthy answers to your Qs (above), if you don't do it already, DO please drain your tank after finishing with the compressor for the session/day, whatever.
That means switch off, relieve ALL the pressure, then open the drain valve (should be a little brass thumb wheel right at the bottom of the tank - probably right underneath just where it's hardest to reach)! That will drain out any condense water that's built up in the tank during the session. And LEAVE it open until starting the next day/session. That will prevent any rust building up inside the tank, where, perhaps, the internal paint job was not so good.
YUP, next time you come to use the compressor you'll forget the drain valve is open and wonder why the tank won't fill, but after "5 mins" the penny will drop and you'll close the drain! A couple of times of forgetting that and you'll be "trained "to do it automatically every time (like those dogs in the famous Pavlov experiment). That how I "trained me" anyway!!
I don't want to teach granny to suck eggs, but as a follow on to my lengthy answers to your Qs (above), if you don't do it already, DO please drain your tank after finishing with the compressor for the session/day, whatever.
That means switch off, relieve ALL the pressure, then open the drain valve (should be a little brass thumb wheel right at the bottom of the tank - probably right underneath just where it's hardest to reach)! That will drain out any condense water that's built up in the tank during the session. And LEAVE it open until starting the next day/session. That will prevent any rust building up inside the tank, where, perhaps, the internal paint job was not so good.
YUP, next time you come to use the compressor you'll forget the drain valve is open and wonder why the tank won't fill, but after "5 mins" the penny will drop and you'll close the drain! A couple of times of forgetting that and you'll be "trained "to do it automatically every time (like those dogs in the famous Pavlov experiment). That how I "trained me" anyway!!
There's not much I can add to some of the great advice given above. I have air-brushed wooden pieces for ten years-ish. I use the cheapest dual action brushes China can bang out (not advisable for intricate work). I will work with a small tank-less compressor if working outside on still days and the large shop compressor when working on or off the lathe. Just make sure there's no oil feed attached and there's a water filter in-line. I've sprayed spirit dyes, water based dyes and paints, food and clothes dyes. I will thoroughly clean the equipment after use (an ultra-sonic cleaner helps here but not essential) and lubricate the needle when putting the brush back together for storage. Stewart Furini on YouTube gives some great advice on air-brushing and colouring wood turnings in general over at https://www.youtube.com/user/stewartfurini
Robbo3
Established Member
A question was asked of Terry Smart from Chestnut Products , can you spray sanding sealer with an airbrush?
As it's something I don't do, I seem to remember his answer was along the lines of ' If you really must' & I suspect that it was slightly different for the three main types of sealer ie, Acrylic, Cellulose & Shellac.
Terry reads the forum so may well give us the benefit of his expertise.
There is also a news letter where Terry answers questions every week
- Welcome to our Newsletters – Chestnut Products – First for Finishes
As it's something I don't do, I seem to remember his answer was along the lines of ' If you really must' & I suspect that it was slightly different for the three main types of sealer ie, Acrylic, Cellulose & Shellac.
Terry reads the forum so may well give us the benefit of his expertise.
There is also a news letter where Terry answers questions every week
- Welcome to our Newsletters – Chestnut Products – First for Finishes
