I'm encouraged by the mention of Danish oil not showing up my 'errors'
It won't hide them, but it won't emphasize them like high gloss does. What might the bowl be used for? If its for your wife to serve your nuts to guests then danish oil is good - you wipe the bowl out with a damp cloth afterwards to remove any remnants of your nuts and every so often just give it another wipe over with oil. I've not used bison wax but some waxes I have used, briwax as an example, are a bit soft- look great for display items but don't take well to handling with warm fingers. Some waxes, called microcrstalline, melt at a higher temperature so are better for thigs thyat you handle.
Chestnut products make almost all possible varieties of finish, not suggesting you buyt anything or everything but their website has a finishing school section, a few videos and 'leaflets' which explain most things really well.
https://chestnutproducts.co.uk/finishing-school/
Don't get drawn into thinking you need everything, or even very much! I get dust off before polishing with an old dry paintbrush, not a branded cloth.
Some danish oil is food safe, I've used vegetable oil (rapeseed UK canola US and most other countries) for the inside of the bowl sometimes but it takes longer to harden. Coat, come back next day and buff.
Akirk above makes a good point, and different woods have very different structures - beech is close grained and can almost look polished straight off the tool, ash is much more porous and needs a sealer but turns well and gives a nice not-in-your face kind of shine.
My first sanding sealer was home made, roughly 2 parts water-based quick dry acrylic varnish, 1 part water, 1 part meths - all things I had lying around. Soaks in quickly, takes 10 minutes to harden unlike the cellulose sealers I bought recenty which are just about instant, but it did work. A sealer helps with the final sanding and stops as much wax, oil or whatever yoiu are using soaking in as much so you need fewer coats. There are lots of opinions, I saw a demo where a very good production turner used friction polish, finishes in 1 or 2 coats and saves lots of time: if you are making in quantity that matters but to hobbyisist saving a few minutes per item isn't that important.
I've been turning on and off for about 3 years. My method now on most things is sand to 240, apply sealer, sand momentarily 240 again then down via 320 to 400 or 600, de-dust, then wax 2 coats for a really polished finish. BUT - this is rushing ahead and I don't think you need to do that if you have some danish oil already and if the bowl is likely to be used. I still use oils - just not for everything like I did starting out.
