Advice for fixing a Parkinson's 16 / Record 53 vise

[JohnGB]

I have a Parkinson's 16 vice (essentially identical to the Record 53) that has a cracked cast iron part that (I have no idea if there's an official name for it) which connects the threaded rod to the two guide rods. I've circled the part in red in the attached photo. The chances of me finding a replacement part are close to zero, so I'm looking for alternatives that are workable and don't need metalworking equipment to make.

From what I can tell, the part is only used to transfer force from the handle via the threaded rod, to the two guide rods to open the front jaws, so I don't think it has to be particularly strong. I do have the original part, which is cracked where the threaded rod attaches, but I don't think that there is anything I can do to fix it directly.

Has anyone managed to find a solution to this, or has any ideas on what I can do to get the vise working again?

 

[toolsntat]

As far as I can tell this only locates and supports the screw.
If it still holds together well I think it should be ok.
EDIT to say I'm talking cobblers
Following posts explain the need to have this to enable opening with quick release action.
Andy

 

[Yojevol]

I've recently renovated a 53 and I agree with Andy. It's there to support ther end of the screw and doesn't take any significant load. However, as I see it, if it is not there the screw may drop down a bit which may lead to the nut not engaging properly. It would be worth making one out of a bit of plywood just to keep the vice going.
Brian

 

[toolsntat]

And now is as good a time as any to mention that sometimes these are put on upside down.
For a short section it may work but they definitely jam up when trying to open fully.
Cheers Andy

 

[MikeK]

Have you considered taking it to a welding shop and having the piece brazed? Welding cast iron is difficult, but not impossible, and brazing might be the easiest way to repair the crack.

 

[Jake]

It's called a yoke I think. It's a few years since I was playing around with them making my 'twin-screw' 53 vice, but it is not a minor part. It's the bit which pulls the slides out when the screw is turned (acting against the washer and cotter pin at the end of the screw), and which pushes the slides back in to grip the work (acting on the end of the turned down bit of the screw).

It would be very simple to make a new one from some mild steel flat bar. I don't recall any reason why the shape is important, so it should just be drilling the three holes in the right place.

 

[JohnGB]

The part (apparently a yoke), is definitely critical on the earlier models. Without it there, if I pull on the handle with the quick release in, the entire bar with the thread comes out with nothing stopping it. The idea is that the yoke would transfer (via a short travel compression spring) the force to the guide bars, which would then push the front face out with the handle. Maybe my model is missing some part that transfers the force on the handle directly to the front face, but it doesn't look like anything is missing.

The design was changed later on so that a simple flat bar with 3 holes could be used, but those models had a small step at the ends of the guide rods so that the flat yoke could sit in place. It was quite common for these yokes to break, and the change allowed them to use steel instead of cast iron.

While it doesn't take a huge amount of force, I'm not sure whether a brazing would be strong enough to hold it all together. I've toyed with 2 pieces of flat bar attached to each other, one with 3 holes, and the other with 1, but I don't have a drill press or a drill bit large enough for the 2 big holes. I'll contact a local metalworking shop and see what they can do.

As a side note, @Jake, do you have any info on your "twin screw" 53? It sounds interesting.

 

[Orraloon]

It's called a yoke I think. It's a few years since I was playing around with them making my 'twin-screw' 53 vice, but it is not a minor part. It's the bit which pulls the slides out when the screw is turned (acting against the washer and cotter pin at the end of the screw), and which pushes the slides back in to grip the work (acting on the end of the turned down bit of the screw).

It would be very simple to make a new one from some mild steel flat bar. I don't recall any reason why the shape is important, so it should just be drilling the three holes in the right place.

I had a generic copy of the record and the yoke was just flat bar with 3 holes.
A split pin and washer at the center hole held it in place.
Regards
John

 

[JohnGB]

@Orraloon Yes, they did that in later models, but then the guide bars had a step machined into them so that they would stay in place. Unfortunately the earlier models didn't have this step. From my research the Parkinson's Perfect 16 was the original model, which was then copied by Record (I think after buying Parkinson's), so unfortunately no step. I could however find some other options to keep the bar in place, but I don't have the drill bit sizes, or the drill press to manage that.

 

[Jake]

Ah OK I hadn't appreciated that difference, so your yoke casting cups around the ends of the rods and screws? I think the main change Record made from the Parkinson was to use bright steel for the guide bars, which will have allowed them to turn the ends down and use the simpler flat steel yoke.

Twin screw info: Twin-screw record vice - Woodwork UK

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Clean the cracks well.
Grind or file a chamfer onto the edges.
Then braze it it.

You can weld it, but that way can lead to much more fun.
Pre-heating, welding and cooling.

Braze will give it the strength you need.

Done 2 in the past.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

A vice repair.
Cast vice, the item was dropped.

Brazed up. OA kit.




Finished.

 

[JohnGB]

I think the main change Record made from the Parkinson was to use bright steel for the guide bars, which will have allowed them to turn the ends down and use the simpler flat steel yoke.

Record did that for later models, but the early models are absolutely identical to the Parkinson's 16 (other than the name and a little decoration on the front jaw). I'm even willing to bet that they used the Parkinson's patterns. Still, the slightly later models have a few things that definitely improved on the earlier ones in terms of serviceability and simplicity.

 

[JohnGB]

@The_Yellow_Ardvark Thanks for the tip. I'll add it to things to ask at a local metal working place.

 

[JohnGB]

Twin screw info: Twin-screw record vice - Woodwork UK

You have to love doing something seriously oversized. A fantastic project. How has it held up over the last decade or so?

 

[Jake]

Record did that for later models, but the early models are absolutely identical to the Parkinson's 16 (other than the name and a little decoration on the front jaw). I'm even willing to bet that they used the Parkinson's patterns. Still, the slightly later models have a few things that definitely improved on the earlier ones in terms of serviceability and simplicity.

I'm sure that's right, I meant over time not at a particular time.

 

[Jake]

You have to love doing something seriously oversized. A fantastic project. How has it held up over the last decade or so?

It's still as good as it was. I've had to tighten up the bolts on the rear brace a couple of times (should add some nut-lock I suppose). My metal skills are a little better now (and I mean a little, but can weld a bit etc) so I'd build it differently now, but it's not necessary.

 

[Richardson1958]

If you have a pillar drill which can drill vertical holes I would make a new one from mild steel as it is only 3 holes. The shafts that the holes fit into can be measured with a vernier caliper or a micrometer. Drill guide holes using 6mm drill bit then if for instance the holes have to be an accurate half inch, drill them with a slightly smaller drill than half an inch then finally drill with the half inch bit and it will be accurate.

 

[aesmith]

Has anyone managed to find a solution to this, or has any ideas on what I can do to get the vise working again?

I have a Parkinson 15 "Perfect Vice" and that bit broke in the same place. From memory the two main guide rods sat in sockets in the casting, the screwed rod passed through and was secured with washer and split pin. I made a replacement from plywood, one piece with the three holes drilled then a second piece glued on with only the centre hole. Just a lazy way of making the two flat bottomed sockets. It's been that way for many years now.

Mechanically the load comes on when the vice is opened. That pulls the threaded rod which in turn pulls the "part" and the two sockets push the plain guide rods.

 

[JohnGB]

If you have a pillar drill which can drill vertical holes I would make a new one from mild steel as it is only 3 holes.

It's only 3 holes in the later versions, but this version needs one centre through hole, and two blind holes to hold the guide rods. But your general idea is what I would go for, only using 2 pieces of mild steel to effectively form the blind hole. Unfortunately, I don't have a pillar drill, and I definitely don't have 1 inch steel drill bits (the size of the guide rods). But it should be trivial for anyone with metalworking tools to make. Thanks for the tip on first drilling just under sized before the final hole.