271

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Just so you know that Tilgear do a 271 copy, that is £14.95+vat in brass :)

It is made by Aldon in the US
 
That is what I had in mind. What stopped me was the idea of trying to do this with a 1/8" wide bevel!

Any idea how to do this efficiently (that is grind and hone the result so that it takes shavings AND may be re-honed)?

A thin cutter on an angle grinder would be about 1/8" wide and if little worn, it could produce a neat round bottom groove on the underside. Working quick it shouldn't destroy the temper.

I'd start by making the groove on a blank (you seem to have an edless stock of used files :) ) and then continuing with the sides and finally the cutting edge. It's easier to build the rest "around" the groove instead of making it last. Otherwise the groove is off by half a millimeter anyway.

Pekka
 
Another variation on a theme perhaps

groove1.jpg


groove2.jpg


not as pretty as Alfs wooden one, infact it's real ugly ennit!
 
Or that top part looks suspicously like an upside down (satanic) cross, it's the router-plane of the devil -- also the deep red colour is a give away.

Maybe as my avatar clearly shows, Norm is in fact the devil, and this is his one and only working hand-tool. Be afraid, be very afraid!!
 
You could use a "guttered" blade, which has built in nickers.

Hi BB

That is what I had in mind. What stopped me was the idea of trying to do this with a 1/8" wide bevel!

Any idea how to do this efficiently (that is grind and hone the result so that it takes shavings AND may be re-honed)?

Regards from Perth

Derek

You're confused; a guttered blade has a shallow curve cut in the length of the back, and is thus not damaged by honing. Backing off the blade becomes more difficult though.

BugBear
 
Alf":2v3db6xg said:
Wasn't that what Stephen Thomas (iirc) did for some #45 irons? Always fancied trying that but wouldn't know where to start.

Cheers, Alf

Digging gives this on WoodCentral:

http://woodcentral.com.ldh0138.uslec.ne ... read=87586

And some archive work gives:
SMT":2v3db6xg said:
Guttered irons were made for some old plow planes without spurs, think i saw a Phillips plow with a set on eBay, once. Basically, the iron has thin side rails on the upwards face. When the bevel is sharpened, the rails become integral spurs, because with the clearance angle, they actually now extend below the plane in which the rest of the iron cuts. It is not quite that simple in practice, however, for an easy running cutter. i found that it was necessary to reshape the end of the iron, so the spurs extend below the heel of the iron as well. At the cutting edge, it is essentially "H" shaped with the horizontal planing edge slightly behind the two vertical edges. The vertical edges are shaped with rounded entry, but to a keen edge everywhere. I used a piece of O-1 steel a bit thicker than a typical #45 iron, and ground the gutter on a surface grinder. From a point just below the clamp screw, on up, the gutters are ground off flush so the clamp and adjsuter can work normally. This shank part of the iron will never get used for cutting anyway.

BugBear
 
A surface grinder... This explains why not everyone's rushing to try it really, doesn't it? :( Could you do something with a milling machine I wonder? Not that I've got one of those either. :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":vir4vk0s said:
A surface grinder... This explains why not everyone's rushing to try it really, doesn't it? :( Could you do something with a milling machine I wonder? Not that I've got one of those either. :lol:

Cheers, Alf

Doesn't sound too hard to fake up; just wrap SiC round a drill bit or nail of the diameter you want, the rig up some clamping/slidy jig from scrap, mdf, rare earth magnets, double sided sticky tape etc.

BugBear
 

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