271

[ByronBlack]

I had my eye on what I thought was a bargain Stanley 271 on the bay, only for it to jump to a large figure, listed by the one and only Mahking.. GRRR :twisted: :twisted:

Ohwell, I guess I should just stop hoping to get one and make my own, or buy the new LN one : http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=271

Unless anyone has one going spare they are happy to sell?

 

[mahking51]

BB,
Sorry mate!
I am a little surprised myself, I thought about £20ish but just saw a Preston one make obver £40 so who knows.
At least it has paid for my LN one as my keeper.
Regards, and good hunting
Martin

 

[Alf]

Blimey - better go and find that box for mine. :shock: Just a thought, but possibly might have been prudent to ask if anyone was selling without pointing out how high a price they're getting first... :wink:

For economy and (IMO) a better design than the LN, make one. S'not hard:

Cheers, Alf

 

[ByronBlack]

Martin, I was only partly jesting, i'm glad I managed to push the price up a bit more for you Besides, I have my eye on some of your other stuff (i'm not saying what as to keep the vultures away

Alf, how would I go about getting a metal thread installed?

 

[Alf]

Get yourself some of these threaded inserts for wood - except only get the Trend ones if you're feeling rich. If you happen to need to order from Screwfix they do a whole bunch for less money in the M6 size and they're so useful it's worth having some extras (about 99 of them, iirc...). Alternatively you can just tap the wood direct, if it's suitably close grained. Aw heck, I'll stick one and a thumbscrew to go with it in the post to you, if you're going to give it a go.

Cheers, Alf

 

[ByronBlack]

Alf, that would be very kind of you thanks!!

I have some lovely hard rosewood (guitar fret boards) which would be ideal for this! I asssume I can use an aftermarket blade? (I'm almost certain i've asked this question before..)

 

[Alf]

Yep, you can tailor it to fit the blade. The trouble is no-one sells them... Although I suppose LN are selling one now? And maybe somewhere like St James Bay, but not exactly stacked up on the shelves.

I'll go and brave the elements and find those parts now. In the immortal words of Captain Oates - I may be some time. :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

BB,
Sorry mate!
I am a little surprised myself, I thought about £20ish but just saw a Preston one make obver £40 so who knows.

Hah! Preston #22 is not the same as a Stanley #271.

The Preston is a Better and Rare tool - frankly, 40 quid is low IMHO.

BugBear (not in Frank Sronces league, but owner of #271, #722, #22)

 

[Paul Chapman]

For economy and (IMO) a better design than the LN, make one. S'not hard:

That's a real cracker, Alf =D>

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[promhandicam]

I thought the blade was home made too. It looks remarkably like a ground down allen key to me. I would have thought that it would be worth a try to make one - what have you got to loose? You would need to choose a good quality allen key - to do this you need to do a spark test by looking at the sparks coming off the grinder (wearing safety goggles of course) have a look at this link which gives descriptions of different spark patterns to enable you to determine the carbon content. I used to have a much better chart from my apprentice days but I've no idea where it is

All the best,

Steve

 

[Alf]

Yep, it it indeed a ground down allen key. Got a bit carried away and ground it down further than was strictly necessary - but it works so what the heck.

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

You would need to choose a good quality allen key - to do this you need to do a spark test by looking at the sparks coming off the grinder

The vast majority of "real" allen keys (i.e. not the ones that come free with flat pack furniture) are easily hard enough to make blades.

They're rather hard; try hacksawing or filing one!

BugBear

 

[promhandicam]

yep - chances are if the surface is black they are hard.

Steve

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Here is another way to grind a blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Paul Chapman]

Here is another way to grind a blade.

That's interesting, Derek. With that method you end up with a quite different angle - how do you find that compares with the standard pattern cutters?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Paul

I was looking to create a blade for the router plane that could be used to cut stringing. The problem with narrow cutters (1/8" and below) is that the traditional cutter design is not strong enough to cope with the stresses. So I conceptualised something along the lines of a mortice chisel blade. The one here is 1/4", but I have others that are smaller. Also, I have ground them with a more acute angle for increased sharpness.

The cutter needed to be used freehand ...

and across the grain ...

It was evident that one cannot cut across the grain without a knicker (as may be seen in the groove on the left, which was knifed first). I subsequently had thoughts of grinding the sides to knife the grooves, but it was too much work, so dropped it.

Nevertheless the cutter is very useful when planing in confined spaces, and it can follow a radius. How does it feel to use? The higher cutting angle requires a little extra force compared with the traditional low angle cutter.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

Paul

I was looking to create a blade for the router plane that could be used to cut stringing. The problem with narrow cutters (1/8" and below) is that the traditional cutter design is not strong enough to cope with the stresses. So I conceptualised something along the lines of a mortice chisel blade. The one here is 1/4", but I have others that are smaller. Also, I have ground them with a more acute angle for increased sharpness.

The cutter needed to be used freehand ...


and across the grain ...


It was evident that one cannot cut across the grain without a knicker (as may be seen in the groove on the left, which was knifed first). I subsequently had thoughts of grinding the sides to knife the grooves, but it was too much work, so dropped it.

Nevertheless the cutter is very useful when planing in confined spaces, and it can follow a radius. How does it feel to use? The higher cutting angle requires a little extra force compared with the traditional low angle cutter.

Regards from Perth

Derek

You could use a "guttered" blade, which has built in nickers.

BugBear

 

[Alf]

Wasn't that what Stephen Thomas (iirc) did for some #45 irons? Always fancied trying that but wouldn't know where to start.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

You could use a "guttered" blade, which has built in nickers.

Hi BB

That is what I had in mind. What stopped me was the idea of trying to do this with a 1/8" wide bevel!

Any idea how to do this efficiently (that is grind and hone the result so that it takes shavings AND may be re-honed)?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[dunbarhamlin]

would that be sort of like an upside down macaroni gouge? Neat idea.

Strangley, this thread has sparked an idea for a mini (1/8" x 1/4") rabbet cutter for fretted instrument bindings.

Steve