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Hi Green, If you do go for the Silverline milti-nailer, how about a review of the tool once you have tried it out. At that price it is quite attractive for the occasional uses I would have for it and I already have a small compressor.

Another thing about the air powered ROS, that I just thought of, is that you probably can't hook it up to a vac for dust collection. So it probably makes a lot more mess than an electric one.

This dual action air sander from Axminster needs 16 cfm, which is why I suggested it might put too much strain on the compressor you quoted in your original post. It might work but the compressor would be running constantly to try and keep up. Having said that I've not used an air...

I don't know anything about silverline tools except a vague memory that someone on this forum said that they are good value for money. As for the nailer itself, what dimensions are the timbers for the framing? I ask because that nailer will only drive a max 64 mm (2.5") nail. If your framing is...

I read the title and thought "This is a serious piece of kit" :lol: No idea about straightening or sharpening it though. I'm sure some of our resident experts will be along presently to advise.

Veneered ply might be difficult to find. The MDF varieties are much more common and work well in frame and panel constructions. As for matching with the hardwood you have it might be a bit hit and miss although I would have thought that ash would be ok.

The topic of Burgess bands saws has come up before. Have a look at thisthread.

I use a Tormek Anglemasterwith a cheap bench grinder and a Vetitas tool rest. The Anglemaster makes setting the grinding angle easy and very consistent.

Hi Woody, have a look at the Gifkinsjig. I'm guessing that you want something you can make yourself but it is worth a look for ideas. There are also a few fairly recent threads on the forum about dovetailing on a router table...try a search (also look at box joints which might be a better...

I can second the Woodrat plunge bar, which I have found to be very easy to use. They cost about £30 though, so not necessarily a very cheap option.

Just had the weekly email from Rutlands highlighting their sale items. Anyone know if these F-clampsare any good?

A scarfjoint?

The Sagulatorcalculator is useful for working out optimum shelf length/thickness. I think I'd want to build what you describe in four units, possibly with separate top and bottom boxes, simply for ease of construction and instalation. You can hide the joins between the units with face frames and...

When you are laying flooring on top of an existing substrate, in your case chipboard, you can get away with much thinner boards. Lots of the cheaper laminate flooring is only about 6 mm thick and parquet flooring isn't all that thick either. Your thinner boards might be quite unstable though and...

Issa clamp for yer long boards innit :lol:

That could be a useful link...never heard of it before

Very nice bench John, well done =D>. I'm sure the recipient and all the other members of the club will appreciate it. I also liked the shot of you're re-handled Japanese saw. Do you not get on with the straight handles?

I have also got a Makita 190 mm saw and it is great for hand-held use. I also have the big Triton 235 mm saw in the Workcentre but that is a bit of a beast for hand use.

As Colin says, even a home made sawboard can make a hand-held circular saw into a very accurate tool (almost certainly better than a cheap table saw). If you plan to do much work with sheet material a couple of these in different sizes are invaluable for breaking down 8' x 4' sheets into...

I looked at cheap table saws a couple of years ago and came to the same conclusion as the posters above...mostly crap. I already had a hand held circular saw so I went for the Triton Workcentre. It costs a bit more than your £100 budget, especially if you need to buy a circular saw, but it is...