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...You could always spend a bit extra and get the 310 model, where I believe the thicknesser bed can be locked in place! :D

It's certainly more convenient. Provided that you've sealed up all the other gaps around the base and therefore, the dust has nowhere else to go, I don't really see as it being disadvantageous when the dust should fall down that way eventually. :)

It's definitely worth going if you've not been before. I also hear they've moved everything around this year, to try and freshen things up. It's usually a good place to haggle over something you might be interested in buying! :D

Very nice work all round. What is the finish you have used?

Also sorry to hear about your accident, though it doesn't appear to have had any negative effects on your hand-cut dovetails! :wink: Good to see you back. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build. :)

I stumbled across this link a while ago; it may give you some ideas. He's got a good solution for workshops without a lot of headroom, I think.

Looking good so far. :) Filling that gap isn't going to be easy... I'd be inclined to just leave it and make sure you don't make the same mistake next time! :D Fillers could make a mess of it and, if you tried to glue something in there, you'd have to ensure that the grain matched and was...

Well, I'm sure my concern is the same as Steve's - the knife is too far back from the rear of the blade to have any effect! :? Following the H&S regs., the gap between blade and knife at bed level should be no more than 8mm (it used to be 10mm but, they changed it four-years ago). You don't...

Thanks for doing a WIP, Mark, this looks like an interesting one to follow with all those curves! Sounds like a fair price for that ash, assuming it's American (otherwise, if it's English then, it's a real bargain!! :D).

It's worth bearing in mind that you would need a 16amp supply to run that Scheppach machine, although it's thicknessing capacities are also slightly greater. The AW106PT is also available badged as Fox and Charnwood, with the older aluminium fence (not that there's much wrong with this.) I...

Good to see it's finally arrived. :) That's one feature I liked about the Bosch saws - you can alter the bevel/tilt angle from the front. Then again, I also found is was too easy to accidentally knock the lever sometimes and I would always have to re-check the 90° stop. Didn't realise this...

Superb. 8) Never thought of using a shoulder or chisel plane before (I've always used a bevel-edged chisel...). Thanks for the tip. :)

I think you generally want 10-12mm deflection on drive belts like this? Someone else will know for certain.

Okay, that's one of your new, large purchases - what's the other one??? :D

I've had one of their larger models for a few years and I'm quite happy with it. Can't think of anything to complain about, right now - except that after breaking two of those guards, I no longer bother with them at all! :D

Yep, definitely go for a 12in disc sander! :wink: I briefly owned one of the Axminster ones and it wasn't bad at all. I also once had a belt and disc sander - the 6in disc was too small for many jobs and the motor was noisy and underpowered, meaning it was easy to stall the belt (which I never...

I can think of a couple of questions that may be on the minds of others... What are the capacities (12"x9"?) and do you need to raise the surfacing tables for thicknessing?

Good to see your first project is under way. :) With regards to your router problem; most fences will have a couple of holes in the face that'll allow you to attach a longer strip of timber. :wink:

Axminster sell beech dowelling in 1m lengths. I've only ever seen pre-cut dowels as long as 30mm or 40mm in 8mm thickness.

Sounds like a plan, if you really think you can manage when you need to drag materials in or out. :wink: If it's anything like the door on my garage then, it's probably a main source of "ventilation" in your workshop... If there aren't already vents (or other sources of draughts! :D) then, you...