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On Saturday, I had a close eye on the clouds as it looked as though rain was imminent for much of the day - in spite of the weatherman's prediction of a dry day until the evening. After lunch, I took the gate off and set about cutting and fitting the two diagonal braces. I set them so that they...

There also at least one video available on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIo2IB-ci0w

Well, I did slap some more of the Ensele on there for the time being, as it seems to dry a bit faster than the paint. I don't think I've removed the gate from its frame for the last time, though... ;-)

An interesting first bench, Alan. I think the design has a lot of potential. For what it's worth, I bought a snail countersink from Wealden Tools recently (anything to avoid the small order charge when purchasing a single router cutter! ;-)) and it's proved to be excellent so far. It's so...

It did briefly cross my mind at one point but, this gate needs to open inwards (for convenience) and, because the pivot point is so close to the wall, any timbers standing proud on the inside could have prevented the gate from opening back against the wall. There's about 1100mm between the two...

Recently, I asked for some advice on making a ledge-and-brace gate with tongue-and-groove boards that would need to fit in to a tapered opening, where the distance between the walls increased by 20mm from ground level up to the 2m mark, which is approximately where the top of this gate would...

Thanks for the advice and, in particular, to Jason - what a great idea to hollow out the backs! That's what I'll try and do once I've got the first coat of paint on (Sadolin Woodshield/Superdec). I'll try to do a WIP in the appropriate forum as well. ;-)

I wasn't sure at first but, having seen the box dry-assembled now, I like the way the corners have come together.

Really like the comfortable looking design - too many tables and benches have sharp, squares ends. Great use of reclaimed timber, too. What did you finish it with? Looks like an oil of some kind?

Hi all, I'm planning to make a tongue and groove gate fairly soon. I've got all the wood and the PTGV boards. It'll be a fairly traditional ledge and brace design (no stiles) and either side I'll have two wall plates (94x44mm) with stops to be planted on later. Something like this: I...

Great progress so far. A very interesting thread to follow. Hope that one of your next project is a workbench... ;-) Don't worry though, many of us have been there! We've all struggled! :-)

The biggest downside with all these 'benchtop' thicknessers is that, regardless of the brand or colour you go for, they're very noisy compared to most other machines. The sound of the machine running (without cutting, not under load) is akin to a cheap vacuum cleaner. Obviously, it'll make a...

When you ran your earth cable through, how did you 'ground' it? I mean, do you attach the ends to a wall, the floor, a machine? I'm thinking of doing something similar with smaller diameter plastic waste pipe and I'm just not quite sure of how to ground each run to prevent static.

Rockler sell a couple of items that may help when edge-routing. There's the Whirwind dust port and also the Edge Routing dust port. Sadly, I've never seen anything like this available in the UK and importing goods is much dearer now than what it was a few years ago.

I get the same problem, mainly when working MDF. The bits I use are all from Rutlands' Tornado range but, I've never found a 'cure', as such... I just make sure that the bearing is clean, lubricated and still spins freely but, it's never quite enough.

I'll also recommend the Freud blades for value and performance. Toolstation stock most of their range but, if there's any size or configuration that you cannot find, there are several trustworthy sellers on eBay.

I've also got this router set up permanently in a table. A great addition it's been, too. That built-in fine adjuster is certainly a great help. I'd only consider replacing it for one of the more expensive routers which can be adjusted from above the table, through the mounting plate. Otherwise...

I haven't noticed a similar problem with my ADE1200 (but then, I don't tend to use that for anything other than chippings, these days). My first thought would be to try lining the aperture with some of that foam lagging/insulation for pipes. It might help, provided there's enough tolerance in...

If it's a benchtop model, is it firmly bolted or secured to a sturdy stand or base? Is the blade running true? Are the wheels running in the same plane? Those are the first things I'd look at. You might also want to check the condition of the drive belt. Larger saws will create some vibration.

Hi Andrew, My first reaction is that you should be looking to cut this leg from a solid lump of timber. Laminating is a good skill to learn but, on something like this, you can be very careful with your grain selection and how you cut each layer but, the simple fact that it is laminated can...