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Hello Everyone, I seem to have a vertical misalignment between the head/tail points on my lathe (Record CL1) - head is lower than tail - which causes discernable problems while trying to turn spindle blanks to cylinders. I'm using the Record lathe bench. The misalignment is at its worst (1mm) at...

Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like contact adhesives are not best suited for work that's supposed to last the course of time. I might have a bit of an experiment with the glue film and pearl glue (on smaller bits) to see how they turn out. I'm just making a unit for my hifi so it's going to be...

Hi Everyone, I'm thinking about whether to do my own veneering for part of my next project. The largest size of groundwork to be veneered would be about 3ft x 1.5ft (and flat). The groundwork would be manmade board. I was particularly wondering about what adhesive to use. I was thinking that...

Thanks for the appreciative feedback. The joinery was quite instructive (all done by hand I'm proud to say) as it showed have closely fitting it needed to be - some of the dovetails for the carcass aprons ended up with a bit of slop. All good practice though. E

It's just placed on the carcass but I've epoxied some wooden strips/blocks to the underside which rest against the front/back rails and side/middle kickers. I had contemplated screwing them as well but I didn't think it was necessary. I asked the granite supplier what they do for work surfaces...

Finished my console table (and drawers!) at last. http://www.filehigh.com/viewgallery.php?f=22036 I'm quite pleased with how this has ended up as I designed it from scratch and wanted to do some traditional carcass work and drawers - neither of which I have done before. I designed the table...

I popped down to Tonbridge last Friday to this place http://www.exotichardwoods.co.uk/ to pick up some ebony square lines. They had a really good selection of wood, especially tropical woods, so I can recommend having a nose round to anyone that's in the location. Regards, E

Thanks for the options. Have gone for my usual shellac approach. I ended up with cedar bottoms not because of any moth proofing but because I messed up the oak bottoms I made and I found some cedar that was the right thickness and flat! Thanks, E

Thanks for the tips. I was wondering whether it is better to seal the cedar bottom rather than leaving it as it is - as it does smell quite nice. The reason is that in my book on woods red cedar has quite a few possible health risks attached to it, e.g. various types of irritations, nosebleeds...

Hello everyone, I'm just finishing off some drawers for my current project and I'm wondering about finishing. I've gone for traditional construction with the front made from American black walnut, the sides and back European oak and the bottom cedar slotted into oak quadrant drawer slips. The...

Presume that the more metal I put in the microwave the better the wood will dry... :lol: :lol: :wink:

Fortunately, as a sole agent my conversion of the kitchen into workshop no. 2 doesn't run the risk of anyones wrath (phew!). Had considered using the microwave to make up my wax polishes: metal saucepan + turps + waxes + 3 mins on high power = flaming kitchen and no back door :lol: :shock...

Thought I'd share this for general amusement. I'm in the process of making some drawers. I decided to use some oak I had left over for the sides, back and bottom which I cut to 8mm thick from a 2 inch board. Problem was that some of the finished pieces cupped quite a bit. So, ever the...

Thanks guys. Think I'll try and source some beech for a 2" thick top. It won't be needed to support any machinery, it just has to cope with my bashing mortices by hand :)

Hello all, I'm thinking about fitting a new top to my workbench http://www.filehigh.com/serve/3221/58922.jpg, as my current effort was cobbled together from strips of white ash glued together then a couple of sheets of ply underneath. I really want something meaty to go with the chunky frame...

Thanks for all the tips and info. Lots of things for me to investigate and practice. Thanks, E

Welcome to the forum! Personally, I like the contrast of the beech and birch. I'd also go for shellac on the inside. You can also wax on top to give a bit of extra protection - and I like the smell (I make up my own wax polish). If there is going to be lots of water you could go for melamine...

Walnuts used to be used for making Vandyke brown. You can even use a walnut kernel to hide scratches in brown furniture by rubbing it over the scratch (not the antique restorer's method mind :) ).

Thanks for this guidance Chas. I think the chuck is locating correctly - it seems to run cleanly when there is no wood in the jaws. I think the points you make about imbalance caused by the differing hardness in the wood (the Eucalyptus was quite soft) are good. BTW what's a "worm screw"? Is...

Thanks Dave. However, the problem I'm having is when I'm not turning between centres, i.e. one end of the blank is held in a chuck and the other end is unsupported to allow hollowing. Hopefully someone else will be able to help.