Workbench top

[edmund]

Hello all,
I'm thinking about fitting a new top to my workbench http://www.filehigh.com/serve/3221/58922.jpg, as my current effort was cobbled together from strips of white ash glued together then a couple of sheets of ply underneath. I really want something meaty to go with the chunky frame.
Wondering about wood to use and sizing:
1. how thick? Was thinking minimum of 2", even 3" perhaps.
2. what wood? Originally thought steamed beech, but I'm told this is difficult to work and will be difficult to get in the thickness I want.
3. could I use reclaimed wood, from oak beams for example?
3. what size? The finished worksurface needs to be 24" x 48". So, would something like 4 strips of 2" by 6" work?
All thoughts gratefully received. E

 

[PowerTool]

Hi

My opinions :-

1)Depends what you are using it for - unless you are plonking loads of heavy machinery on it,2" will be plenty.
2)Depends what you have to hand
3)Reclaimed oak would be great (strong,hard-wearing,looks great)
4)Again,depends what you are using it for - I would probably have a well in it,towards the back (for all those tools you happen to need,but don't want to roll away)

5)Nice looking bench

Andrew

 

[Scrit]

1. How thick? Was thinking minimum of 2", even 3" perhaps.
2. What wood? Originally thought steamed beech, but I'm told this is difficult to work and will be difficult to get in the thickness I want.
3. Could I use reclaimed wood, from oak beams for example?
4. What size? The finished worksurface needs to be 24" x 48". So, would something like 4 strips of 2" by 6" work?

1. I agree with Andrew, 2in is more than enough. Where you'll need the depth is the front apron/dog strip. It's useful to have a 5 or 6in apron as a flat vertical surface to clamp panels to. The edge of a 2in worktop alone isn't enough

2. What's the problem with steamed beech? 2in is a standard thickness in steamed.

3. The main disadvantage about using oak is that the tannin, in conjunction with your perspiration will blacken all your tools in time. Tannin + moisture = tannic acid, tannic acid + cast iron/steel = black marks. And I'd not choose an open pore wood like ash (or oak) either simply because benches tend to get grubby from time to time and open pore woods are not as easy to clean-up.

4. I don't think that the exact width of the strips really matters. The top could just as easily be made up of one each 1-1/2in, 2in, 2-1/2in, 3in, 4in, 5in and 6in laid in random order. Main thing is not to go too big (the individual staves, that is) and possibly think about putting splines in as benches can sometimes have a hard life.

5. Good rigid-looking base

Scrit

 

[edmund]

Thanks guys. Think I'll try and source some beech for a 2" thick top. It won't be needed to support any machinery, it just has to cope with my bashing mortices by hand

 

[engineer one]

look out for old/ scrap kitchen worktops, or off cuts thereof, cheaper and
more easy to use than making up your own from 6 inch planks.

IKEA used to do it, and Howdens certainly do.

paul :wink: