Veneering

[edmund]

Hi Everyone,
I'm thinking about whether to do my own veneering for part of my next project. The largest size of groundwork to be veneered would be about 3ft x 1.5ft (and flat). The groundwork would be manmade board. I was particularly wondering about what adhesive to use. I was thinking that pearl glue might be a bit hard work! The alternative in terms of ease would appear to be impact adhesive. I also seen this iron on adhesive film, and have no idea how good this is so anyone who has experience of this I'd be grateful for your views.
Thoughts and tips gratefully received.
Thanks, Edmund

 

[superunknown]

I have always used pearl glue in all the veneering I have done, but only small areas. I don't think pearl glue would be so easy for a large area.

Although I have never used it myself I would try the iron on adhesive film, looks an excellent idea. Thats is something I would like to give a go myself.

You can also get pre-glued veneer.

www.valeveneers.co.uk

 

[DomValente]

Hi Edmund, I suspect the purists will insist on pearl glue.
Have used the the ironable strip but find the impact/contact adhesive the most practical in terms of speed and economy, just spread thinly and evenly and no stopping for tea.

Dom

 

[Alf]

I've used the glue film and while it does work it needs a bit of practice. And fresh glue film. I've had very limited success over a large area but that's probably just 'cos I don't like ironing... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[woodbloke]

I've used D3 PVA adhesive, cauls and curved bearers on something this size before- works quite well but you need several G cramps - Rob

 

[Colin C]

Being a restorer I have used pearl glue Alot and if you are shown a good way of using it (https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... +veneering ) .

What I have done in my post, can be done on a bigger area.
It is a great way ( and cheap ) of veneering.
I have also used impact/contact adhesive and what was called cascamite ( cant remember the name it has now :roll: ).

For small bits i use PVA but still use pearl glue and will use it if and when I need, it is not hard when you have a way that works ( like sharpening ) .

If you need any help with pearl glue just ask

 

[David C]

I have seen work done with contact glue, Rosewood, delaminate in less than ten years.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I have seen work done with contact glue, Rosewood, delaminate in less than ten years.

I'm with you David. Impact glue I've never found works well on single layers of veneer, especially if the work is intended to last for a few decades.

It's too creepy and flexible to hold single veneers down successfully, and a bit of nitro-cellulose type polish sprayed on usually bubbles the veneer off the ground.

The impact glues do have an application in commercial work designed to last only a few years where the veneers are paper backed or made up of two or three plies. This stuff is closer to p-lam than veneer in characteristics and performance so the contact glue works reasonably well.

And in commercial work such as bars and store fixtures the woodwork element is all usually ripped out and replaced anyway within five or ten years, so longevity isn't really an issue. Slainte.

 

[Scrit]

I have also used impact/contact adhesive

That give me the creeps - sometimes the veneer follows suit! :wink:

.....and what was called Cascamite (can't remember the name it has now :roll: ).

.... now called Extramite :? (Just remember it's not Vegemite.... :roll: ) Basically a urea formaldehyde glue

Have you tried Elmers liquid hide glue? Animal hide glue (and therefore reversible), in a bottle. Magic for repairs.

On point about using glue film is that it doesn't always work too well - white beech and unsteamed cherry hav an alarming habit of going pink(er) in places if a dry iron is used, I've found.

Scrit

 

[Colin C]

Hi Scrit

I have used contact glue but dont like to as I find pearl much better and on I have not used Elmers liquid hide glue yet as I have not see or heard of it.
Thanks of the heads up ( I have lots of pearl at the moment )

I have also used Extramite with an iron some sucess but you have to get the iron just right :roll: ( Heat ).

 

[Paul Chapman]

I have seen work done with contact glue, Rosewood, delaminate in less than ten years.

That's been my experience with contact adhesives as well. They eventually dry out completely and whatever you have stuck down simply peels off

Paul

 

[edmund]

Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like contact adhesives are not best suited for work that's supposed to last the course of time. I might have a bit of an experiment with the glue film and pearl glue (on smaller bits) to see how they turn out. I'm just making a unit for my hifi so it's going to be more functional than heirloom cabinetry. So I thought it would be a good opportunity to try some veneering.
Thanks, E

 

[Colin C]

Hi edmond

If you need any tips on pearl glue, just pm me, as there are some tips in my post but if you are not sure just let me know

Colin

 

[Paul Chapman]

Edmund,

If you use Glufilm, it would probably be best to run over the veneer and groundwork first with the iron to dry out any moisture, otherwise the veneer could shrink slightly when you apply the heat, which might cause a problem :wink:

Paul

 

[garywayne]

Hi Edmund.

I am very inexperienced but, on my collage exam I used waterproof, (resistant),PVA glue spread thinly and put in one of those bags with the air sucked out of. Worked great. Had time to maneuver the veneer, and no bleeding through, due to thin glue layer.

No matter what you use, make sure you squeeze out all air bubbles, and excessive glue.

Here's wishing you all the best.
Gary.